My EFI setup

[CharlieP]

neato torpedo

[socrace]

Yeah, got lucky on ebay with the '85 efi assembly, was $138 + shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 500wt_1182
Here is a picture if the link is gone:

Screenshot.jpg

And here it is stripped down and sitting in the gl1100:

IMGA0265.JPG

IMGA0262.JPG

The manifolds actually bolt up to the heads perfectly, except the airbox between them is about .6" too wide. Will take a 0.6" section out of the right side of the airbox which will leave the air filter hole centered and the stock gl1200 filter fits well. It seems likely that the designers of this unit used a gl1100 for their original mockup, it really fits in there good.

I agree that GM sensors should work well, am planning to mount the coolant sensor where the fan switch was, and control the fan with the ecu. Some Steinhart Hart constants that are very accurate for these sensors are a=1.4531E-03 b=2.3385E-04 c=8.5100E-08. Also plan to use a single 1bar GM MAP sensor T'd into all the manifolds for main fuel lookup. Will probably keep the Honda TPS sensor, assuming it works ok haven't tested it yet.

Have a small electric pump (carter p74042, $9 NOS on ebay) that will mount inside the tank hanging from the fuel level sensor. The best external pump with hose barbs I could find (airtex E8312, http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=60014) would take up more space, cost more.

And finally, have installed a regulator/rectifier from a 2006 Honda CBR600RR. It is Shindengen MOSFET unit model FH008EB, $35 on ebay. My research on the net shows this unit should provide enough clean power at idle to run the efi, as it does on the CBR which has a similar sized 3 phase permanent magnet alternator to ours.

Now, if I can just stay focused.. As somebody once said: "The last 2% of the project will take 200% of the time".

[Cookie]

I've had a hard enough time getting my carbs to work..more power to ya Ray.

[Whiskerfish]

Great answer Ray I actually understood it!!! Thanks

[morganfrmn]

so are you doing the high preasure fuel pump with a return to the tank...

[KYpondman]

I don't plan on doing this in the foreseeable future, but it's fun going along for the ride.
Thanks for your efforts,
Claude

[taunusrainer]

I agree that GM sensors should work well, am planning to mount the coolant sensor where the fan switch was, and control the fan with the ecu.

That is exactly what I did!

Some Steinhart Hart constants that are very accurate for these sensors are a=1.4531E-03 b=2.3385E-04 c=8.5100E-08.

What is this?????

Also plan to use a single 1bar GM MAP sensor T'd into all the manifolds for main fuel lookup.

I will sync the elbows and then use one sync port for the MAP. There is a MAP sensor built in the megasquirt. Will use this one.

Will probably keep the Honda TPS sensor, assuming it works ok haven't tested it yet.

Any linear TPS will be good.

Will take a 0.6" section out of the right side of the airbox which will leave the air filter hole centered and the stock gl1200 filter fits well

Do You intend to cut and weld it?

I am wonderin if there were different SEi injections...I was able to grab a set of SEi intake elbows and they did not fit onto my cylinder heads... Any idea?

Another question:
What is the tubing underneath the SEI system for:


Ray

[Whiskerfish]

I remember talking about those extra tubes with Cyborg just a couple of weeks ago. I will drop him a note to check in here if he can.

[socrace]

Hi Ray, thanks for the comments.

Yeah, need to cut a .6" strip out of the airbox (front to back on right side) and then weld it back together. May mock it up using jb weld to make sure it's aligned correctly, then take it off and get it tig welded. Or maybe just go with jb weld, or try to braze it myself, can decide yet..

Have done a fair amount of research on the LTD, but not so much on the SEI, am surprised as well that the manifolds are different! Do you have pictures?

OK, here is what I (think I) know about the tubing on the LTD:

Green arrows - These are the idle air hoses, notice the elbows connect to the throttle bodies just downstream of the throttle plates. Strangely, the LTD does not have any ecu control over idle speed, idle air in increased when cold through mechanical means. The small metal boxes that the red hoses connect to have one-way reed valves in them, another bit of strangeness. From there, the hoses converge into one hose that connects to to an electrically powered thermostatic air valve, which heats up and closes, similar to an electric choke on a 60's VW.

Red arrows - These are the so-called secondary air injection hoses (emissions gadget). The oval shaped bumps on the intake manifolds hold the o-ringed ends down on machined holes in the 1200 cylinder heads. Once removed, this whole assembly leaves a 1/2" or so hole in the bottom of the airbox.

Yellow arrows - These are the 4 MAP sensor connections.

Have to say I'm a little worried about those reed valves in the idle air system, have you ever run into this before? Current plan is to run 4 equal length hoses out to a Ford/Bosch PWM solenoid air valve to control idle, no reed valves.

Another pict:

IMGA0270.jpg

Bob D

[Old Fogey]

Ray,

I've been trying to find time to scan the 86 SE-i manual I acquired for Cyborg.

In the meantime here's a scan of the tube arrangement.

If there is anything else you need let me know and I'll scan it for you.

[sunnbobb]

Ah. The dreaded "California Model"

[Old Fogey]

This might help also

[taunusrainer]

I understand. Thank You, gentlemen. This info is very helpful. Seems the SEi was quite a green vehicle then in the eighties...did it have an oxygen sensor in the exhaust?
I also do not quite understand why they connected the vacuum sync ports to feed the MAP sensor. The throttles are factory synced so one single vaccuum should be enough. Even if they are out of spec, i.e. not synced, creating an average vaccuum cannot cure the performance.

Fogey You seem to have a whole library at home
Great! Thank You! I'll sooner or later come back to this offer

Socrace, unless You are not an incredibly perfect welding pro, You should not even think of welding this material. It is nearly impossible. The guy who welded my intake elbows is a trailer maker. You should see how beautiful he normally welds. He said the elbows nearly drove him crazy...
I would drill and tap the halves, bolt them together with some suitable hardware

and then epoxy it.

Have to say I'm a little worried about those reed valves in the idle air system, have you ever run into this before? Current plan is to run 4 equal length hoses out to a Ford/Bosch PWM solenoid air valve to control idle, no reed valves.

Yes, this is the way to go imo.

CU
Ray

[FirstYearDeek]

Looks like a great start, Ray!

I agree that a central throttle body with port injectors is the way to go. You've still got the whole "synchronizing" thing to go through now.

Although it should be slightly easier with injectors as a fuel source... When you're syncing, use a map that has "flat" fueling all over the idle range and turn off all the automatic enrichment settings. That way fuel stays constant while you mess with the throttle plates.

-Deek

[FirstYearDeek]

RE: reed valves...

This is a batch fire system; not sequential. Even sequential systems don't have time in the cycle to time injection only when the valve is open, so there is always fuel/air waiting in the ports. Because the secondary air injection system is downstream from the throttles, the cylinder on the intake stroke could potentially suck fuel/air right out of the other cylinders, totally hosing up the mixture.

Current plan is to run 4 equal length hoses out to a Ford/Bosch PWM solenoid air valve to control idle, no reed valves.

Yep. Ditch all that crap and let the FIDLE do it's job! (Hose length is not really that important on an idle system; don't sweat the "equal length" part... a longer hose isn't going to change the total volume or velocity enough to matter, and it will make your hose routing neater.)

-Deek