Wing Project #3

[Track T 2411]

Um, yeah. Nope, probably not gonna get that fixed...

[olchris]

Ive had a contact form a person in "Adelaide South Australia" who has many GL parts... Adelaide is 2800 kilometers away and about 20hrs by road!!

Are there any members in NGW that live in Adelaide who may be able to do some "tyre kicking" for me... Eg verify existence and items...

[olchris]

Scammers, time wasters, why do they reply to adverts and not follow through .. Anyway in the time past ive found a long motor complete but with "unknown" history... It turns over with a sticky valve. Pulled heads and all looks good gave it a valve grind and now waiting for head gaskets etc , pumps heap of oil to rocker feeds, water pump look newish and feels solid.... Once new head gaskets arrive i will do a compression and leakdown tests on the bench..

Im also going to start a seperate thread on Head Gasket failure, http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=58051 when new gaskets arrive to verify my suspicious findings...

[olchris]

Well, i hope the "Gods Of All Things Mechanical" have a favourable view off this attempt at bringing life to a discarded, orphaned Honda motor..... I have fitted DIY valve lapped heads and look, feel 110% usable... New belts, gaskets and tappets set by ear... Hopefully tomorrow? i can crank it over on the bench and get some readings... If its got over 120lbs or better (cold) i will be really happy.. I know it spits out oil when cranking from gallery tubes to head (when a Short motor) so it will have oil pressure?, clutch removed inspected and refitted, Stator gives all the correct readings, water pump looks/feel good... If its presents good compression and leakdown readings then its worth the risk ATM for me to beleive its a "usable" motor...

[olchris]

I was feeling a bitlazy today after i found all the crud in the tank

..

IMG_0349.JPG

Are now im getting the "place in line" via NGW .. The carbs soooooon to be refurbished with Randakkation.....

IMG_0341.JPG

[wheeliedog]

Those carbs look nasty

I love your Tank Tumbler, you seem to be full of ideas

[TNTbefree]

Well is see why the chair next to it looks so rough. Looks like furniture is in for some Hard Time in your shop. I bet when you go into Office Depot, the whole office furniture section trembles in fear.

[olchris]

Well is see why the chair next to it looks so rough. Looks like furniture is in for some Hard Time in your shop. I bet when you go into Office Depot, the whole office furniture section trembles in fear.

hahah that chair! "my mums sewing chair from the 50/60's" caught of fire again from welding spark but managed to save it for another day... She would be horrified but i still use it everyday!!!

[olchris]

I started some work on the frame today. I had DIY sidecar mounts which were removed but the two front frame vertical members where very distorted si i decided to replace the damaged areas..

I measured an area to remove, cut a new peice of tube for replacement.. then took a secondary measurement that was "accurate" to where the frame is now...

IMG_0350.JPG

I cut out the section of damaged frame, with the other side intack, and made some internal sleeves to assist in a stronger weld..

This will also help to align the new material

IMG_0351.JPG

With the two "backing plates" inserted and tacked in either joint and with a timber wedge opened up area, fitted new tube, removed timber wedge and checked and rechecked the original dimension then tacked into position..

IMG_0354.JPG

In a few spots i need to open up the gap so that the "backing plate" is included in the the weld area.. it assist in the strength of the joint as i will "flush off/hide" the welds prior to P/C or paint...

IMG_0357.JPG

I hope this helps those who have crushed frame members that want to fix...... If i were to paint maybe i would take the shortcut and fill with body filler but i didnt....

Cleaned up and respot welded several times for the "invisable" finish..

IMG_0361.JPG

[Neil]

Nice!

[olchris]

Well this post has all all turned out upside down............ Im trying to get sense of the NGW "in house" system...... I got 5 in a row but

IMG_0373.JPG

IMG_0370.JPG

IMG_0368.JPG

IMG_0367.JPG

[Track T 2411]

Nice pics and explanation on the frame repairs. Thanks. Looks like the tank work was a real PITA...

[olchris]

We had a fleeting discussion about the cost, pro's n con's about rear master cylinders here....http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... +cylinders ..

I decided to go the "cheap n cheerful" direction and purchased a M/C from ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400982182828 ... EBIDX%3AIT

I fitted it today using an adaptor plate made from 6mm aluminium flat bar... Of course i need to make up a fluid line to replace the dummy hose fitted... I have the local (Lic'd) brake hose person onside so no problems there...

The reservoir is on a rubber tube and im 99.9% sure there will be no conlfict with the tank, if the happen i will use a clear tube about 100mm long with a plug and no reservoir.... After all if the system is sound there will be no "waste" of fluid....





The standard GL clevis pin "holder/yoke" fitted the new pushrod.. With a few packers to align the port and starboard alignment and using top front standard mounting hole as a "baseline/fixed point" i located the position of the rear standard mounting hole by rotating the adapter plate enough to locate the position of the lower rear standard hole..

Might have taken a few hour i guess, but it will do the job and cost Au$16.00 ish

[Neil]

Looks workable from here.

[olchris]

There arent too many usable headers on the market around here so i found some bends on Ebay Aust and cost $110Au , 4@60deg and 2@30deg and a 2x 1 meter of pipe... I had a rusted out pair to give a guide for clearence and a set of flanges that i cleaned out the original double skin pipe... From that existing exit i can increase the size to suit what ever muffler i find.. and that joint between the two pipe is now firmly tacked, after i created a hole to suit the "mating area".. Internal weld of the pipes to the flange and all final welds will be done when muffler etc are mounted...



I not going to worry about "heat shields" like the original.... As we known about the cold beast thingy, i dont ever see it being a problem and if anything a benifit in the winter months..