GL1000 build - soon to be Fuel Injected

[GT-Ron]

No turning back now...



Any tips for getting the remaining rubber boots off the intake tubes?



And what is the purpose ofthese little screw holes on the side of the intake tubes?


symbol of nitrate

[82_GL1100]

From the FSM:
CAUTION: Do not try to remove the rubber couplers from the intake pipes. They are bonded in place for precise alignment.

Sorry 'bout that. Do you have a FSM? Are the manuals available on the site?

The screw holes are for connecting a manometer to synchronize the carbs. They should each have had a machine screw in them.

[ericheath]

The holes are there for synchronization of the carburetors. No idea on removing the remaining rubber, it was vulcanized. Burn, baby, burn??

[GT-Ron]

From the FSM:
CAUTION: Do not try to remove the rubber couplers from the intake pipes. They are bonded in place for precise alignment.

Sorry 'bout that. Do you have a FSM? Are the manuals available on the site?

The screw holes are for connecting a manometer to synchronize the carbs. They should each have had a machine screw in them.

Thanks, makes sense.

I have to remove them to fit silicone couplers that will fit on the itb’s.... So yeah unfortunately i had to destroy them.

[GT-Ron]

Eric i was thinking that too. Or else soaking in some kind of solvent?

[low-side]

I'd carve most of the rubber off of those intake runners with a knife and remove the rest with the brass brush on my bench grinder myself.

[ericheath]

Have you seen a few EFI builds here? There are a few who have used mikuni adapters (some with downdraft carbs, some with EFI) rather than elbows for $10-20 each. Being in South Africa probably limits availability.

Any post you find with EFI, look to the bottom of the page for similar topics. There have been a few done successfully and a few still in the works.

I’m trying to remember one with a similar one to yours.

[ericheath]

Here’s one: viewtopic.php?f=16&t=45695&p=476967&hil ... ed#p476967

This one’s got good bones too: viewtopic.php?f=16&t=45093&hilit=Fuel+injected

[OCR]

Did you get the remaining rubber off the runners?
If not, try soaking them with brake or carb cleaner, it will soften the remaining bits and allow it to peal off easier. (heat will help too)

[GT-Ron]

Low side the wire brush on the bench grinder seems like a great idea!

Eric thanks. Some nice builds there. That turbo build was fun to read...

Ocr - that sounds like a good idea too. Will give it a shot!

[GT-Ron]

Small update.

Getting everything ready to go to the vapour blasters. Removed the water pump but damaged the rear seal a bit. I guess that is now junk?





I also went ahead and pulled the heads off so i can get them refreshed. The valves have a lot of carbon and gunk on them at the back.

The left head came off super easy. Looks like someone replaced that gasket before. But notice the missing oil nipple thing that everyone says to watch out for. Ps: what would be the result of not having it in there? And can i buy it loose from honda?






The right head fought me a bit. The gasket tore as the head came off eventually. This side has the oil nipple.




All in all good progress for about 1.5hrs of work.





I should probably get hold of a fsm. The right head camshaft only has a camshaft seal on the front side. Nothing at the fuel pump side?

The left camshaft had 2 seals back and front. Is this correct?

[ericheath]

Correct on camshaft seals. The right rear cam allows oil into the fuel pump drive and tachometer drive. You’re doing it right. New water pump isn’t going to hurt.

[low-side]

I agree with Eric on the water pump. You can usually bring one back from the dead on the old water pump, but it will usually start leaking soon. Best to replace it now while it's easy if you plan to put a few miles on this bike.

[ericheath]

There is a rebuild kit on eBay, but it’s a tricky rebuild. There a few reports here, some successes, some fails. Worth reading if you want to save a little.

[GT-Ron]

To be honest i dont feel like messing with the rebuild. But is $118 the best price i can expect to pay for an oem pump? Any better deals out there?

It looks like i also need header gasket/seals. And there seems to be gaskets behind the backing plate of the timing belt pulleys. Doesnt look like they do much.