75' GL1000 U-joint maintenance

[redglbx]

On the grease zerk on the swingarm, thinking that it lubes anything is pure myth. If you pull it apart you’ll see a shield that directs any grease pumped through that zerk onto the shaft itself, not on the splines at all which is why you have to take things all apart & manually lube them.

I believe that the addition of the zerk starting in 76 was nothing more than a marketing deal. Honda durability testing of the 75 models must have showed a potential for spline wear which is fretting where the splines look rusted is actually fretting which is the result of vibration between the mating parts. Greasing things dampens & lubricates the vibration between those parts.

Do not believe that because you squirted grease in that zerk that you are good to go, it does nothing, zero, zip, nada !

[dontwantapickle]

^ 100% correct.
That zerk does nothing.

[Prospect]

I decided to do it right. I took the final drive apart again and used the correct grease this time. It was a huge pain getting that circling near the u-joint back on again. I’m glad I’m done.

[redglbx]

The Honda moly grease is all I use, just one of those things that works for me.

[Sidecar Bob]

Not wanting to argue but I figure it is best to use what the FSM recommends, which is lithium grease with molybdenum additive.
Honda may actually sell a product like that but most of the results I can find on Google for "Honda moly grease" are Honda M-77 Assembly Paste which is exactly that: a paste used to ease assembly of parts and provide at least some protection until the real lubricant (e.g. motor oil) reaches them, not a long term lubricant.

If the recommended Moly-Lith grease is used and the correct assembly procedure is followed to ensure correct alignment between the wheel and final drive splines (and the o-rings and boot are in good condition so that dirt can't mix with the grease) the splines should last a looooooong time.

Any time you have the rear wheel off you should loosen the final drive nuts and re-tighten everything in this order:
1) axle nut (this will pull the wheel and final drive splines into alignment)
2) pinch bolt in left side of swingarm (if you do this before the axle nut you will pull the ends of the swingarm together when you tighten the axle nut)
3) final drive nuts

[Prospect]

Thanks for all the replies last year. I finally have the gl1000 on the road. A lot of work went into it and this was my first ride. Yes, the front brake is off. I rebuilt the u-joint, brakes, new tires and rebuilt the carbs using all new parts. Bike runs perfect.

[redglbx]

These are just magical bikes when they’re running right, just an effortless ride ! I would assume that you’re going to rebuild and install the front brakes as the rear by itself isn’t all that effective. Good job!