NGWClub®, Inc.

Doubtful that judiciously shortening the intake duct would have any effect. At all.
I took off a small angled slice to eliminate contact between the the top spark plug wire on the right hand ignition coil.
Added a short length of corrugated split wire loom on the spark plug wire in the truncated area where there might be contact for whatever reason.

Agreed, reducing the "snorkel" should not have any impact just make sure to leave the opening the same size and ease any sharp edges.

Apinkston wrote: ↑Sun Apr 10, 2022 12:35 am Thanks for that link, that was exactly what I needed. Got the proper jets ordered and until they show up I want to try to get the bike running since it has once before. I’m having an issue with my air box unplugging some of my ignition wires. I was curious to see if I cut the tube on the air box, will it mess with how smooth the airflow is or will it not make much of any difference

I've cut several of these over the years while installing Dyna coils. Never had any issues with jetting. It is a minimal change is the size of the opening.

A correct and clean air filter element is the most important detail in the filtered air intake system.

I know you’re not supposed to but I’ve been using the air filter that was on the bike when I got it. Filter looks clean and air was blown through both sides but I should replace it. Is there an autozone part number that works or is the only replacement direct oem

It's a small investment compared to all the other parts you've installed on your ride so far. Yes.
a Genuine Honda Part
17211-431-671
ELEMENT, AIR CLEANER

EMGO makes a decent replacement filter part number 12-90010.

I’ve used these in the past, nothing special but works fine

Got that emgo filter ordered. Thanks. What is the value of resistance for the stock spark plug caps. I lost all spark and the coils tested good, all wires were testing good and connected. The caps tested at 9.45K OHM and I remember reading they’re only supposed to be 5K but I’m not sure

Yep 5 kohms but 9.5 should not kill the spark. It may reduce it but that is not your primary issue.

Lòst All spark. ?

OFF/RÙN/ÒFF switch is turned to RUN?

Yes, with the key and switch set on I have absolutely zero spark. Bike on, wires read 14V to the coils, 0 with bike off. Wires held power all the way from points to coils. With the coils off the bike they read infinite ohm and mounted they read 14.5K ohm. The caps were the only thing I didn’t replace in the ignition but I’m also not using a ballast resistor for these Dyna coils. Should I open up the points cover to see if the magnet is working appropriately

OK. You answered my question. Not the switch.
Out of ideas now.

Done

So I tested it all again today and with key/switch on I got power to the wires coming from the switch, and no power coming from the wires coming from the points. Checked the red wire, and no power with key/switch on. I used the connector included in the package which I don’t really trust but I should probably go for a proper solder

Has anybody here used Shinko tires before? I’m looking at a set of Shinko 230 tour master, 110/90-19 and 130/90-17. Never heard of them and wanted to hear honest reviews if there were any

Apinkston wrote: ↑Mon Apr 11, 2022 10:29 pm So I tested it all again today and with key/switch on I got power to the wires coming from the switch, and no power coming from the wires coming from the points. Checked the red wire, and no power with key/switch on. I used the connector included in the package which I don’t really trust but I should probably go for a proper solder

Dyna S installation-
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and
no need to read beyond Post #1 in the following Topic -
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77232