This is where discussions of EFI systems, Dual Carbs, Single Carb mods and plans can be discussed and shared.
If you are working on or have a problem with stock carbs then your questions do not belong here, please post them in the Goldwing Tech Discussions Forum.
83gl1200 wrote:Good to hear its the most comfy. Big difference from a gl1500? I've heard that was the pinnacle of Goldwing comfort, except for tall people.
I traded a '92 Wing for it nearly 12 yrs. ago, it's more of a cruiser and sits lower. I never could flat foot the Wing, I could this Valk even before I put shorter shocks on it. As for tall people, we have members as tall as 6'9" and with added pegs out front in the engine guard and different risers, some other changes I've forgotten....he does fine.
Next question; where can I find some pliable rubber doodads to put on the intake elbows. I've tried Silicone spray, heating them, fussing and cussing at them but a 1" coupler won't quite make it in. The heating with my gun helped big time but still not pliable enough.
1984 GL1200 Standard, work in progress
1998 Valkyrie Tourer, my Honda Davidson
If your rubber manifolds are stock, a 1" sch 40 coupling should fit inside with a little slack. Are you sure the couplings are schedule 40, if they are schedule 80 couplings they will have a larger outside diameter. If they are schedule 40 and will not fit I do not know what manifold boots you have. Maybe sand down the outside of the couplings till they fit. Soften boots with ATF.
You definitely bought different couplings from me, I would replace those before buying new intake boots. I don't know if this is the cheapest place to get the rubber, its just the first place that came up. At 95$ its pretty obvious why I'd replace the PVC parts rather than rubber, unless you have no choice. http://jbmindustries.com/Goldwing.html
To me these rubber boots just look like generic plumbing parts at a huge markup, I don't like the look that's why when I needed new intakes I just bought better condition used ones off eBay.
Well, looks like I'm screwed for the time being. I have a stash of PVC parts for my irrigation system and found a sch40 coupler. No difference, won't fit. Most fittings you can look on the edge of them and it will also tell what it is and my black couplers are also sch40 but thought I'd at least try a different brand. Won't fit. So, looks like I'm at a standstill until I can figure out how to seal the joint where the intake runners enter those rubbers mounted on the elbows. The boots in the link won't fit a 1200, I'm tempted to see what size they are on my Valkyrie, there's a lot of odd parts on the 1200 that work on the Valk, might get lucky. Part number should tell. I have the manifold together except for the carb base(carb coming next week) and the couplers on the end of the runners.
1984 GL1200 Standard, work in progress
1998 Valkyrie Tourer, my Honda Davidson
I just tried something using a strip of old bicycle innertube. Cut to just slightly wider than the distance runner will go into the rubber tube, wrapped it tightly around a piece of scrap flex pvc and was able to stuff it in but is tight. After tightening down the hose clamp it's pretty solid so my next trial later this PM will be using some self adhesive silicone tape in place of the innertube strip. I use it for elec. stuff and wrapping wire bundles, great stuff 'cuz it sticks to itself like saran wrap sticks. Might need to use a better clamp, I'll post my results later; pro or con.
1984 GL1200 Standard, work in progress
1998 Valkyrie Tourer, my Honda Davidson
John Schmidt wrote:I just tried something using a strip of old bicycle innertube. Cut to just slightly wider than the distance runner will go into the rubber tube, wrapped it tightly around a piece of scrap flex pvc and was able to stuff it in but is tight. After tightening down the hose clamp it's pretty solid so my next trial later this PM will be using some self adhesive silicone tape in place of the innertube strip. I use it for elec. stuff and wrapping wire bundles, great stuff 'cuz it sticks to itself like saran wrap sticks. Might need to use a better clamp, I'll post my results later; pro or con.
That might work. Not sure the plasti-dip would hold up to gas. The electrical tape won't I don't believe.
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
Wrap some of that innertube around a fat drill bit or small hole saw to where you can press on the coupler and stick it in a drill. Glue sandpaper to a stick or use a sanding block. You could sand those to the proper size fast and easy.
Robin, it won't be exposed to gas since it will be wrapped around the outside of the manifold runner. It's also a different composition than electrical tape, stretchy and sticky on one side. I would only wrap it to the edge of the runner, just enough for the clamp to grab it when tightened down. I might try cutting a piece off and dip it in a small cup of gas just to see what the reaction is. If it disintegrates, obviously it wouldn't be worth using.
1984 GL1200 Standard, work in progress
1998 Valkyrie Tourer, my Honda Davidson
Well, two things happened since early this PM. My carb came in, didn't expect it until Monday, and I figured out how to seal the runners in the elbows. I removed the OEM hose clamp on one spare elbow so I could experiment with a regular radiator hose clamp. Slipped it on, then took a scrap piece of flex pvc and as before, wrapped a layer of old bicycle tube around it. Using a 1/4" drive ratchet/socket, I tightened it down as far as it would go, put my hand over the bottom of the spare elbow and sucked as hard as possible on the end of the flex. It held solid, no leak down at all anywhere around the rubber where it goes on the elbow, or where the flex entered it. My lips were drawn into it as well so I released the suction. Next I tried blowing into it and still no sound of leaking around the elbow. So, with that in mind, I'm simply going to cut some rubber strips about 1/2" wide and long enough to wrap around the end of the flex with a little overlap, use some SS hose clamps and ratchet those suckers down tight.
Next problem, the mounting bolts on the base of the carb are pressed in studs and aren't nearly long enough to pass through the thickness of the floor mount to be used. I assume I can knock those out and simply use bolts of adequate length. Going for a breakfast ride on the Valk in the morning so won't be messing with it until late in the PM. One of those little joints out in the country that isn't long on decor or decorum, but great on food.
1984 GL1200 Standard, work in progress
1998 Valkyrie Tourer, my Honda Davidson
I found longer studs at ace/true value hardware for $4-5 a pair. Dkl used bolts. Either works. On my empi bolts might bottom out on one side if too long and crack the bowl.
Nice. You're right I don't hear a lag in your throttle response in stock form, mine you could hear it, but I think its because my engine is just too funky for stock.
