1977 gl1000

[Apinkston]

Got some help from a local shop and we were able to find a kit from K&L supply. Came with gaskets, O-rings, and air/fuel jets. The only issue was it comes with a 120 instead of a 125 main fuel jet. After carbs were rerebuilt and installed, I got the bike running for a solid 2 seconds before it abruptly stopped. Can’t get it back on, but I’m getting pops and fires. Even a couple backfires every once in a while. Trying my timing first then going to once over my electrical
UPDATE:
Don’t have the slightest clue what’s happening with the Dyna system, but I can’t seem to find the spot for 1/2 points anymore. I can set 3/4 easily, then when I try 1/2 I get nothing for the whole range of the point. Engine is cranked for each one and the wires for the test light are snug

[Fred Camper]

May say cleaning the old jets is better than the available non-Honda jets. But sure sounds like an electrical issue due to your explanation. I too have a Dyna and had no trouble so perhaps yours has gone south?

[Apinkston]

Unfortunately it is the Dyna system at fault. 1/2 have no spark whatsoever. I sent an email to dynatek and will call tomorrow. I read on multiple forums that their points systems can degrade if the ignition is left on too long while the bike is not running. I am guilty of doing this a couple of times so I’m more disappointed in myself than dynatek

[gltriker]

Are both Dyna leads securely plugged into their separately color matching wire connectors under the rubber umbrella??
Condenser leads unplugged under the rubber umbrella too? Removed the condenser entirely?

[Apinkston]

Condenser is gone completely. Each wire is plugged into their sockets accordingly. Both coils get warm when the ignition is on, and 3/4 points will open, 1/2 will not for the full circle.

[Old Fogey]

Unfortunately it is the Dyna system at fault. 1/2 have no spark whatsoever. I sent an email to dynatek and will call tomorrow. I read on multiple forums that their points systems can degrade if the ignition is left on too long while the bike is not running. I am guilty of doing this a couple of times so I’m more disappointed in myself than dynatek

Leaving the ignition on will fry one or other of the reluctors. Ask me how I know!
I did that back 2013 (I think) when I first took my bike over to the US. I sent the whole unit back to Dyna and they very graciously fixed it and sent it back with no charge even though it was well out of warranty.

[Apinkston]

Got in touch with Dynatek and they said they will fix my unit for me. While I wait on that, I have a couple questions on rebuilding calipers. A local shop quoted me $100 per caliper without supplying parts. Is it easy to rebuild these calipers? If so should I tackle it myself or stick to the security of knowing a pro shop did the work?

[Whiskerfish]

Octane has an excellent how too for brake systems. Take a look at that and it should help you decide. viewtopic.php?f=22&t=2717#p19620

[sos]

Calipers are extremely simple. The hardest part is getting the piston(s) out without damaging them.

If your system makes pressure pump them out before you break the system open.

If your system is not together you can use compressed air (be careful) or you can use a grease gun in the bleed port. Makes a mess but works.

[Apinkston]

I’ll definitely look into that. For the meantime however, I got my points system back from Dynatek, and I still can’t find the firing mark for one and two. All the way around the circle with my test light in the right port. The closest I got was when I had the test light in the 3/4 port and got it to light on the opposite side of the circle

[gltriker]

With key switch turned ON and the OFF/RUN/OFF switch turned to RUN, unplug the DynaS bullet connector to the 1-2 coil.
Then, with your test light alligator clip attached to the negative terminal on the battery, you will then probe that double socket bullet connector terminal with the other end of your tester. On second thought, use the appropriate DC volts range on your multi-meter.

Forget about rotating the crankshaft. The Dyna S has been completely eliminated for this test.

You are desiring to find the test light continuously illuminates. If no illumination happens, there is an open circuit somewhere in the primary ignition circuit between the OFF/RUN/OFF switch and the tested double socket bullet connector terminal.
Check and confirm both wire connections to the 1-2 ignition coil are intact at their coil connections and still plugged in.

[ericheath]

You probably have, but just in case, you are supposed to ensure you have an adequate gap between the rotor and pickups. 0.040” if I recall correctly, but maybe 0.025” ??? They once had install guides online, but I can’t locate them now. If 1-2 is too close it might not read.

[Apinkston]

Are you referring to the rotor on the weights system or the cam itself?
Also, I tried just having the test light in the 1/2 connector alone and there was no light

[Apinkston]

I just tested the system again and I am 100% on the fact that Dyna never fixed my system. Engine set to F1, timing light connected to blue(3/4) the 3/4 point will connect at the spot where 1/2 should but doesn’t. The same goes for the exact opposite side of the circle. I’m not sure how to go about this now besides contacting Dyna or spending the money on a different brand

[gltriker]

Are you referring to the rotor on the weights system or the cam itself?
Also, I tried just having the test light in the 1/2 connector alone and there was no light

What's your next step now?
Respectfully inquiring- You installed Dynatek coils. You had to assemble 2 primary wires with the supplied loop terminals and attach them to the ignition coil with the supplied screws and lockwashers. You had to plug the other end of the 2 assembled primary wires into their respective bullet connector terminals within an inch or two of the ignition coils.

Did you test their continuity, ohms resistance, after assembling the new ignition coil primary wires. Tug tested?
I know it's easy to not fully plug the male bullet terminal into its complementing female socket.
The female socket might no longer be a tight connection onto the male bullet.

The positive voltage you were probing for passes directly through the primary wires you assembled and attached with screws and lockwashers onto the ignition coil's internal primary windings. It's improbable those internal primary windings are open, but not impossible.
With the bullet connectors on both newly assembled wires screw connected to the ignition coil, unplugged ,check the very low ohms specification .
(I believe the DYNATEK DC1-1 green ignition coils are specd. at 3 ohms?)
If not at the manufacturers specification, then resistance test directly across the 2 screws.