Maybe I'll call it 'Threenix' for a while ;)

[robin1731]

The bad part about riding this time of year, if it is like here, is the salt residue on the roads. Even if it's dry the salt can make a mess of thing's. If you can wash it thoroughly right away it isn't so bad. Just something to think about if they do use the stuff there.

[gltriker]

Update us with the difference at 60 mph when you make your run, seems like I would expect a big difference but I do not have an N&V chart handy today.

Utilizing a tire diameter vs. gear ratio chart I'd referenced a year or two ago, the difference in engine rpm- if the engine's final drive output gear ratio is 1 to 1- when comparing a 26 and 28 inch diameter tire driven by a 3.73 final gear ratio axle, would be approximately 276 rpm. (I'd hoped for a few more hundred engine rpm reduction.) It seems as though the engine's secondary reduction ratio is not 1 to 1, though. ahhhhh.... we'll see what happens on the road.

[gltriker]

I hadn't accomplished anything on the trike build since my last ride on December 19th. Spring and tolerable daytime temperatures are just around the proverbial corner. Anyhoo.....

our fellow member, Red2trike, had provided us the detailed photos and text a coupla months ago about an auxiliary gear shifter set-up he installed on his wife's GL1200 trike.

It looked very appealing to help me sort out some of the gear shifting system and the yet to be designed rear brake actuation linkage issues, all to be co-existing on the left footboard of the trike. My day just got a lot Better! Here's what I found, and quickly purchased from a seller on ebay today.

One Way Shifter.jpg

[Red2trike]

Now that's a pretty picture...shifter parts!!!

Got a chance to go back to read a few pages and Cliff...you may find that you will have to change the rear gear set. If you've got a Ford rear end...get some 3:00's (or 3:08's) from another stock rear. Me thinks you've got some 3:65 gears in your rear now and no matter the tire size (height) you'll never get the RPM's down to a "reasonable level". My 1200 is running approx. 3300/3400 RPM @ 70 indicated on my digital speedo (i think my tires are 28" tall). WE try to maintain this speed for most Interstate riding as it's best for all-round performance/gas mileage (35-40mpg). This also gives a good ratio for the rolling hills of this area when downshifting. It seems to be about the same as stock configuration for overall final gearing. Mileage is lower with the trike because of extra weight for adding rear/extra sub-framing/bracing and extra fuel tank plus a (heavy) metal rack for carrying extra stuff(75+lbs) and 2-up. So my mileage suffers somewhat when fully loaded for a week or two trip. But I'm not unhappy with the mileage or how it handles hills, twisties or flat roads. We both can drive it and can drive far as tandum drivers.

Someone should be able to tell you the final drive ratio for your 76. But I also think the tranny ratios are throwing you off. Can't say for sure...but something like a 0.94 final for your bike????

Thanks again for all those posted pictures and to those that worked very hard to get them to YOU members.

RT2

[gltriker]

It's been quite a few weeks since I last posted the progress of this "build". Sit down... get comfortable.
Now that the snow is finally gone, and the Spring rains are washing the remnants of copious amounts of road salt dust off the roads, I'm back in my "shop" when the days are dry and air temps are tolerable to my old bones. OHhhh, the anticipation of putting on hundreds of riding miles before next Winter is extremely appealing to my old bones and psyche! It's been a LONG Winter..

Anyway..... the sunny and warm Saturday immediately before Easter Sunday, I was sitting on the bike, once again perusing how to make the highly modified shifter lever more user friendly for my upshifting task. Easter Sunday was rainy, and the infernal "lake effect snow" machine from Lake Ontario, 30 miles to our North, deposited a reported 12+ inches of wet snow between late Sunday night and Monday evening. Surprisingly, it all melted away in a few days!

Last weekend, I found that scootching my derriere back onto the "hump", dividing the front and rear seating positions of the King/Queen seat, afforded me much better range of motion for my left ankle to pivot my toes upwards to "lift" the Highly modified shift lever with much less effort and focussed concentration on, most times, the unsuccessful upshifts frustration.
(After I purchased the Auxiliary Shifter set-up and later production GL1000 shift lever off ebay for $38, as a pair, I came to realize even with those components I wouldn't be successful to even slightly improve my aggravating gear shifting difficulties.

Remember, the rear brake pedal has to be placed on the left side, also. I'm thinking to position the rear brake pedal so my left heel depresses it, is the most cost effective route to investigate, at this point. KISS and KILB (Keep It Low Bucks) are the paramount targets.
With my long arms fully extended, at least for a few minutes, I sat somewhat comfortably in my new placement on the seat, with the handlebars in their "normal" upright position. Therefore, the trike will become a solo rider, only.
My wife doesn't feel left out, so that's where I'm headed now!
Somehow, somewhere, the seat has to be altered to my newly discovered requirements. (The Corbin Gunfighter seat's side profile has always captured my eye!)


Once, again.... Anyway.
I bought a gently used 2 tone brown factory colors GL1100 front fender off ebay several weeks ago. It will be painted to somewhat match the "custom" blues that a PO had sprayed most of the bodywork, and the Electric Blue Lester wheels. Advice will be gratefully welcomed regarding spray can painting do's and don'ts on a composite fender.
Mr. Sagebrush... you had yours painted professionally from what I gathered in your Blue bike's build thread?

The engine starts and idles well, still, after setting idle with stabilized fuel since December 19th-- our last ride. BUT now, new electrical gremlins are appearing! The 7volt regulator had pooped out and my temperature and fuel level gauges were reading zero last year. I knew that after checking both gauge circuits' continuity connections and 7volt regulator output was zip.crap. I'll buy the highly recommended 7volt regulator from the GoldWing man to kill that gremlin.
THEN, Another electrical gremlin became apparent earlier this week!!
My front fairing headlight quit working, just prior to considering going for my 1st ride this year, and the turn signals and marker lights-- all front lighting components--went nuts with various light switch positions' changes. No fuses are failing, and the faults are most likely a poor ground path through the, long ago?, flexible sheath pigtail wires assembly exiting the stock headlight shell that takes a twisting path to the bulkhead connector on the lower left corner of the fairing.
The charging voltage at engine idle speed was around 13vdc and immediately climbed well over 15vdc when the throttle was twisted open. My almost new AGM battery is a well charged component and my multiple chassis ground path connections from the battery are intact, as well. The rear lights' performances are troublefree. Therefore, a new mosfet Shindengen regulator/rectifier with complementing installation kit, are also on the list. Thank the lord I've saved quite a few hundreds of bucks outside labor and "list price" parts costs by performing our 3 vehicles' maintenance, myself, so the keeper of the funds isn't so resistant to my requests for stuff for the trike project.

Lastly, I've been eyeballing rear fenders on ebay. Yeah, I'm gonna cave in and submit to the advisements to put something over those rear tires.... .

There, in a large coconut shell, is my report!!

[Sagebrush]

Glad to see your getting enthused again. I'm confident we'll be seeing you in PA for the NGW Eastern in July riding your trike

Mr. Sagebrush... you had yours painted professionally from what I gathered in your Blue bike's build thread?

I did, and I bought a gallon of Dodge Viper Blue, the paint alone cost $125.00. I have a little left over but not enough to do another bike.

You may be able to buy and inexpensive seat and modify it yourself. I've done a couple of them. They're not too hard to reshape but then the cover won't fit and it will need to be reupholstered.

[evilratwing]

I seem to remember my old '82 Ford LTD had a 3.08 rear ratio and an open diff.

There were some with that, and some with the "airplane gears" 2.73 ratio, also. I think those came in the Grand Marquis base model with no towing package.

I think those were the Ford 8.5" rear diffs.

[gltriker]

Glad to see your getting enthused again. I'm confident we'll be seeing you in PA for the NGW Eastern in July riding your trike

Mr. Sagebrush... you had yours painted professionally from what I gathered in your Blue bike's build thread?

I did, and I bought a gallon of Dodge Viper Blue, the paint alone cost $125.00. I have a little left over but not enough to do another bike.

You may be able to buy and inexpensive seat and modify it yourself. I've done a couple of them. They're not too hard to reshape but then the cover won't fit and it will need to be reupholstered.

This afternoon, one of my older sons told my youngest son to tell me one of his buddies has a canvas/upholstery shop and would be pleased to take a look at the trike's seat for me.
Also! There is a paint shop, right next door to the canvas/upholstery shop.

Looks like I can ride the bike over there when the weather permits, and kill two birds in one "swell foop".

[gltriker]

I seem to remember my old '82 Ford LTD had a 3.08 rear ratio and an open diff.

There were some with that, and some with the "airplane gears" 2.73 ratio, also. I think those came in the Grand Marquis base model with no towing package.

I think those were the Ford 8.5" rear diffs.

I'd been thinking since late December about replacing the trike's 10 bolt, 8.5 ring dia. GM Eaton diff. gears -- currently sporting a 3.73 ratio ring and pinion gear set-- with a 3.42 ratio set. That change itself would be the most cost effective alternative for reducing my engine speed; thereby, decreasing fuel consumption, as well. Also, retaining the ride height geometry of the swingarm and H-D air shocks placements.

Scrolling upwards in this build, back to several posts in January , I'd spoken about taking off my new 16" A/R wheels with their installed 26" dia. tires, and re-installing the funky looking wheels (S-10, 15") with 28" dia. tires already installed, to record the differences in engine RPM -- utilizing an accurate digital tachometer -- and MPH readings with another vehicle's consistently accurate speedometer.
Gotta wait a while, though, until Mother Nature complies with our request for dry roads, etc..

[Red2trike]

Sorry I haven't been on the board for a while...cold/flu stuff.

Like I mentioned before Cliff, I think you can go just a bit lower in ratio...like 3:20's for the GM rear. Just guessing...but I think that combo with the 16" wheels and 26" tires will do fine for overall RPM/gas mileage. Those 1000's needed a little more rear gear help so one didn't overuse the clutch on pull-outs. So like I mentioned before, 3:08's to 3:20's should be tops on your rear gear set.

RT2

[gltriker]

Over the past coupla weeks, I sorted out my headlight issues, amongst several other electrical issues. An almost non-existant ground path to the Pacifico fairing's electrical bulkhead connector was discovered.

It was caused by cobbled up crimped and "cold soldered" splices in the headlight shell. Turning the front forks lock- to- lock, caused a female spade connector to work its way off the male spade terminal which is spotted to the inside of the stock GL shell.

Thoroughly distrusting that circuit through the pigtail assembly now, I wired a dedicated ground wire from my frame ground near the engine, in turn routed through a small opening in the fairing and soldered it to the ground wires located inside, with bullet connectors to allow removal of the fairing, if need be. Headlight issue is solved now.

Have also installed a new 7volt regulator that came from the GoldWing Docs fellow. NOW, my temperature gauge and fuel gauge work, correctly!

Also, installed a CBR600RR regulator/rectifier assembly I bought off ebay to address the overcharging issues. That modification took me a few hours to sort out and rout so everything looks as good as I could make it look. Soldering has become a task that I understand how to accomplish, correctly now! Almost 64 years old, and I'd never been so well prepared to do it the right way!!!

Then, although dragging my tail from a cold and low grade fever, I took advantage of the warm weather yesterday afternoon to take my first ride, this year, to enjoy the fruits of my labors. OH, Happy days are here again!!

AND, as I'd previously noted in my posts, sitting back further onto the hump between the driver and passenger areas on the seat, with the handlebars rotated closer to my riding position, upshifting frustrations have diminished immensely. With those simple changes, and more patience with gearchanging speed, I rarely missed an upshift yesterday!
It's cold and raining today, or I'd be out riding again......maybe Wednesday if the projected forecast is accurate.?

[Easter]

Glad to hear it is all coming together.

[gltriker]

Thanks Easter.

I'm Lovin' your Dragon Wing!! Awesome color!

Today was about a 100 mile ride here and there day; first stop talking about linkages-- shifter and rear brakes--with a clever feller that suggested to just place the shifter further forward and outboard of the rocker cover would solve my upshifting and seating issues. Brilliant!! My foot is long enough (size 12) that my boot heel will still rest comfortably on the center of the footboard when my boot toe is tickling the more forward, relocated shift lever. It also opens up a new opportunity for rear brake lever placement.

Next stop was a custom bike builder shop, looking for raw steel fenders that would set down attractively, over my 215/60-16 rear tires. The guys in the shop didn't seem all that interested in my queries until one casually stepped outside to see where I went and saw the trike. THEN, a bunch of fellers came to look at it.
An older fellow (my age?) driving by in a car turned around and came back to look it over, and eventually said he's never even sat on a motorcycle. one of the shop employees said he'd taken his road test on a 1983 Apencade. He was shocked to see a bit over 8,000 miles on the odometer, too.
anyway..... they found an 11" wide fender that looks real good. he found 2 laying in a group of parts for a coupla projects never started. Custom Chrome items-$200ish list. The owner of the business wasn't there to deal with. The guys took my name and number. But, I have a feeling they won't sell them as low as several bike parts listers on ebay will.

3rd stop was to show "Bummer" ,the exhaust pipe bending wizzard I located last Spring, what his skilled contribution to the exhaust system helped me build.

Last stop, the H-D shop in Syracuse, for air line for my RoadKing air shocks. A young guy at their parts counter, that I'd bought the snap in air line fittings from several weeks ago remembered me, and although he was advised there wasn't any in the whole building, he magically found a small bulk package and sold me 5 feet. Why so much? At .99 cents a foot, it was an atypical H-D price! Just because I could and have a bunch of change from a $10 bill to "brag" about, as well.
I almost laughed out loud in the hallowed halls of the H-D palace when I saw the Triglide <sp? was tagged at $37,985. I'd paid $300 for 2 1953 Servi-Cars in 1968 or 69.
yeah I know.... comparing coal to diamonds. --still

I haven't decided where I'm riding to tomorrow.

[Roady]

It's so good to see that you're getting out.

Go man, GO! Ride that steel horse.

[gltriker]

You can rest assured, I WILL, Steve!!

This trike is getting much more attention than the dearly departed (RIP) CB900 Custom ever did.

Must be the "Electric Blue" front Lester wheel, eh Fred?

no, of course the rear axle is the main draw. Then the engine and exhaust system. Then 8,000 miles on the odometer. ("It's not even broken in yet!")

The guys at the custom bike shop wondered why I wanted fenders, at all.