GL1100 Cheap E-Z Single Carb Conversion

[roncar]

Between my buddy and me, it was close as to who had the biggest grin.

That 'first' running, no matter how poorly or what it takes, is definitely an exciting moment. Congratulations!

[dkl]

Another old wing...comin' back from the Dead, GOOD JOB.

[cuyler1]

yessirreendd another juan down the road !

[cuyler1]

the reason for the vacuum line running from side to side is for balance. on all my 1100 conversions i had to connect a threaded vacuum line connector from old 1500 intake manifold into #2 vacuum inlet port opening (like as i would when synchronizing carbs) to ever get timing correct. the 1200, ? ,working on it. the 1500 i just converted for a friend ran perfect- and i mean perfect -as i tried adjusting from standard settings and i had to go back to standard as shown in the vw master guide for 34-3's.

[John Schmidt]

My main problem now is it doesn't want to idle down. I have to keep the rpm up, not sure what the answer is just yet. Found the oil leak, hardened valve cover gaskets so ordered new ones. Thought I had when I was putting it back together but guess not.

[John Schmidt]

Well, I got it to idle like it's supposed to. After doing some repair on the generator connection, just enough to operate but not through with it, I gave the idle some thought since it still wouldn't idle at all. I don't know exactly how the idle cutoff is supposed to work, but I've wired 12v to both it and the choke. Then it occured to me....I wonder if the carb body needs to be grounded. I figured in a normal installation the carb sits on and is bolted to a metal intake manifold, thereby giving the carb a ground. In this setup, a metal carb is bolted to a plastic manifold which doesn't furnish a ground. In furnishing the 12v for the idle cutoff, I used the accessory connection in the fuse block, so for a quick test I ran a ground wire to the ground side of that same connection. Turned on my exteral fuel supply and hit the starter. BINGO! Cracked the throttle a couple times and stepped back, the old girl just sat there cracking the sound barrier(no mufflers yet) and idling nice as you please. While it was running and just to prove my approach to the problem, I removed the ground from the fuse block and it started to die. I cracked the throttle and kept it running at real high RPM but it wouldn't idle. Holding the throttle linkage with one hand and slipping the ground back on, it settled down and started to idle like it's supposed to.

So, any thoughts on my hook up or is it just coincidental. I think not. And, it gave me a chance to check the generator output....very good across the battery which I figured it would, based on testing prior to installation. Now I can move on to fixing other things on the bike, but according to my resident bed warmer it appears mufflers must be my next search. She was quite emphatic, and after all these years together I've learned to recognize the tone.

[dkl]

Your gett'n closer...........if it was ez anybody could do it.

[Terry in Australia]

I thought it was supposed to be E-Z?

[dkl]

It is E-Z for a 1100............1200 he is on his own, and doin' fine.

[John Schmidt]

Right side seems to have a kind of pop to the exhaust compared to the left, doesn't appear to be a valve....no suction on my hand or a piece of paper. Crack the throttle and it jumps right now and high RPM is smooth so not really sure what's going on. Going to pick up a breather from a local VW parts store, under $20. Also need some new plugs. I'll be picking up the T strap and eyebolt as well so I can hook up the throttle cable. Soon as I have the carb stabilized with a smooth running engine, I'll be pulling the forks down for rebuild. I am curious about one thing, the small air holes at the top of each fork. I'm not going to be using air for adjusting them so what do others do? Thinking of hitting each little hole with some weld and close it off, then grind/polish it down smooth. Any opinions pro/con?

[cuyler1]

i found some from progressive and installed them on my 84 aspencade to rid the air-ride 8 years ago so i can't tell you part # , i know someone will chime in with the answer cause everytime i get on this forum another bike comes in. summertime!

[robin1731]

Small exhaust leak at the head could cause a pop like that. Maybe try snugging up the header bolts/nuts. You might check the wanted section. See if someone might want to trade you their regular fork caps for your air ones. Yours would look better with those on them. IMO

[John Schmidt]

Robin, it isn't the fork caps I'm talking about. There are small holes in the sides of the fork tubes and the equalizer(for lack of better term) clamps on them with a tube running between the two forks. If you don't understand, let me know and I'll take a pic later today. With the equalizer removed and you bump up/down on the forks, you can hear the air hissing in/out from those holes.

[robin1731]

Ah, yeah, I know what you mean. About all you can do is what you are thinking. Extreme would be to get different fork tubes. But if yours are ok that an expense that isn't necessary. They will need to be sealed as you found out. If you weld them though do it a small amount at a time. These forks are heavy steel but you still might "tweak" them if you apply too much concentrated heat.

[ericheath]

I use the caps with new Orings and plugs in the threaded holes for the air lines. If you don't you'll get splashed with fork oil.