1978 GL 1000 "The Tank" Resoration Project

[shieldsm]

Thanks,

The thing is it has not been started for 4 years so I wanted to basically start from scratch to ensure everything was okay. I triple checked the valve clearances. I was able to slide the correct guage in there with some resistance to a point where the next size up was unable to slide in.

Side note, So looking at the pulley's than, what is TDC #2. Would that still be T-1 with one pully pointing down and the other pointing up.

[shieldsm]

A picture of my new belts. Impossible to see where the pullys are at but I am proud of how I got the area nice and clean. She was a bit dirty.

[rcmatt007]

Thanks,

The thing is it has not been started for 4 years so I wanted to basically start from scratch to ensure everything was okay. I triple checked the valve clearances. I was able to slide the correct guage in there with some resistance to a point where the next size up was unable to slide in.

Side note, So looking at the pulley's than, what is TDC #2. Would that still be T-1 with one pully pointing down and the other pointing up.

tdc #2 is to set the second side of the points during timing, and I do not know which way the pully points.... but both UP is TDC #1

[shieldsm]

Okay. yep, that's what I had to do to set the valve's on the other side but I did not look to see what direction the pully's were at. I think all is good, just a tad nervous. I checked everything so many times, I was starting to get dizy. Thankful the 78s only have one valve clearance specification! I am not going to be riding it when I start it up, but I don't want a catistrophic engine failure so soon into my project. I still have to look over the electrical connections, and do a quick flush and cleaning of the carbs before I do my first initial start up. I am following closley Raandak's recommendations for start up procedures after a long lay up. If everything starts okay I will probably recheck the belts and valve clearances. Covers have to come off again anyway because they need SERIOUS polishing!

[rcmatt007]

before you start it up after a belt change use the bolt in the center area between the belts to hand turn the engine just to make sure it is correct, that way if it is not and the vlves contact the pistons you will not destroy the engine

[CAPT. BILL]

That's a nice 78 Mine is dressed but not for long....

[sunnbobb]

Good advice Rodger!

[rcmatt007]

the best way, is always to make sure it is lined up correctly before you ever start, BUT if you are not sure and/or have to lign it up after you start, hand turn the engine to make sure you do not damage anything

thanks, capt bill

[Missourimike]

Like the others said, change belts, clean tank, rehab the brakes as they tend to stick after sitting for months. I've had to use 4ft prybar on some, just to get the calipers off the rotor! And the #1 item to get on your list is a Genuine Honda Shop Manual for the GL1000. These bikes are very sophisticated to those with experience on them, but COMPLICATED to the first time owner. Once everything is in order and working, a lifetime of pleasure to own and ride. Don't guess at any part, in the restoration of one.
As for turning an engine over by hand, best use the bolt on the BACK of the engine, at the stator. It's under a cover.

[alwing17]

T-1...Both pulleys should read UP...T-2... Both pulleys should be 180 degs. from UP,they will be upside down. The cams turn 180 degs. for every revolution of the crank.All 4 stroke motors work like this.

[alwing17]

When you get her running... This link will help in checking your charging issue...http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=27215.

[shieldsm]

Day 3:

Did not do too much today. Did the "wiggle test" on the water pump. Not good. Way too much play. That will be replaced later, but I think it will be okay for the initial start up. I don't plan to be riding it before I do the complete tear down anyway. When draining the antifreeze it was very clean but I have not dumped the oil yet to see if any antifreeze got in there.

As far as ignition timing, I have the Dyna III electronic ignition. Am I supposed to do any valve timing with this?

[shieldsm]

Looked at the main fuse and wiring. It is a mess. Read Whiskerfish's post and I am definitly going to install the inline 30amp fuse!

[shieldsm]

I put in a inline 30 amp fuse which looks much cleaner. Question. In the pics and my old setup I see the red/white wire going to the starter relay along with the other end of the fuse (they are joined together with a terminal which are connected to the relay). Could I instead just make two seperate terminals instead of both these wires connected together?

So basically now on one side of the relay I have the positive battery cable, one fuse end, and the red/white wire that I believe goes to the ignition. On the other side of the relay is the wire going to the starter. The other end of the fuse is connected to the red wire that was next to the red/white wire.

I had electrical stuff....It seems the relay and what is connected to it is prone to moisture. The top plastic cover is shot to hell. Any ideas to protect the top of thre relay?

[shieldsm]

Sorry another question for you all.

I bought a rectifier/combo as the previous forums have suggested. Its not one of the newer ones used for the CBR600/1000 but the one I have fits where the old regulator when. The only difference with this one versus the FH00.. model is that is still has a black wire coming out of the new rectifier/regulator. I heard that to prevent the charging issues is to NOT use the black wire. Would it be safe to just cut the black wire coming from the new rectifier/regulator and close off the end. I already unhooked the old regulator and zip tied the old connection off.