And away we go . . . . LTD style

[alan hawke]

Both mine , 75 and 76 has the off on switch .

[polkadot]

I am starting to look at parts I will need for this rebuild. I am seeing parts for GL1000K, L and Z. What do those letters stand for?

[roncar]

A lot of codes are used to identify model, year, and destination of delivery. Those are for model/year.

1975 GL1000 usually does not have any other identifier but refereed to as the "K0"
1976 K1
1976LTD L or LTD
1977 K2
1978 K3
1979 Z

The "Honda" parts list breaks down the parts further with the destination codes and in many cases the serial numbers. Lots, and I mean LOTS, of changes were made during the 1976 model production run. So for the 'purist', just because a part is for a '76 model, and your country of destination, that doesn't mean that's what originally came on the bike.

[polkadot]

Thanks.

[polkadot]

Cleaning, cleaning, cleaning and more cleaning. Buy stock in in CLR and simple green! I ordered my first parts today, of course it was a Randakk rebuild kit. Tomorrow I go to NAPA to order more stuff (including timing belts Roady). Ran in to my first set back. I could not get the fork tube caps off! Tried everything and ruined the caps! I will have to find replacements. I think Tom can help. Will post more after the weekend. ernie

[robin1731]

When you tried to loosen the fork caps did you loosen the top triple tree bolts? That needs to be done. It is an easy thing to miss if you don't do it a lot. I have also run in to some caps that were way too tight too. They really only need to be just past snug. But like a lot of parts on bikes some people get a little carried away when putting things back together.

[polkadot]

They were out of the triple tree, in a vice in the basement. I soaked them as best I could w PB Blaster for 2 days. Neither would budge. I wonder if they used the red stuff?

[robin1731]

You could try a little heat around the top of the tubes. The PB-Blaster may make it worse. There are rubber 0-rings on these. The blaster makes the rubber swell.

If they did use any loctite they had no idea what they were doing.

[barbie1017]

Hi Ernie, I am so glad you are the one who got my Dad's bike. He is smiling down right now, I'm sure...to see that someone is making use of his bike and bringing it back to life. I wanted to keep the bike for sentimental reasons, but I know Dad would want me to let it go for what you're doing with it. Will keep you posted on the progress with the title. Keep posting pics so I can see your progress. Thank you, barb.

[polkadot]

Barb, Great to have you along. I was working most of the morning on the bike. I got the muffler and headers apart. Both ends of the muffler will need to be repaired. One of the headers is thin and has a small hole at the connection end. Could a smaller sleeve be welded inside without affecting performance or will I need to find another set of headers? I got the bearing races out of the frame and off the triple tree. All looks good. I took apart the brake system and I think it can all be rebuilt without too much trouble. I got the seals out of the front forks. I worked a bit on the valve covers, and they will turn out great. Lots of work ahead. I have been cleaning all of the little parts and putting then in marked baggies. Here are some pictures of the bike as it sits.













If Ohio State continues to play like they have been, I will probably be working on the bike more in a bit. More later.

[robin1731]

Looks like rust on those valve spring retainers. Did the engine sit without the valve covers on? I would look things over very carefully inside the engine. As much as you can from the outside anyway.

[polkadot]

I am actually going to ride today, so not much work on the bike. I did some organizing and a little dis-assembly. I removed the water pump cover. It was a nice surprise to see a nice looking metal bladed water pump with no wiggle. That will save some time and money. I forgot to mention that when I took the front brake calipers apart, they were each missing brake pads! The rotors look good, so maybe PO was in the process of repair or rebuild when he got sick. Not sure, but no harm done. (there were pads in the rear brake)

[polkadot]

Robin, I took a close look at the valve cover area. Those marks which appear to be rust are grease/oil stains. They wiped right off. I have managed to get 3 of the brake pistons out. One came out by air (glad it wasn't pointed at anyone!) and two came out with grease. One is being very stubborn. The pressure with the grease gun gets so great that the grease comes out the gun fitting instead. Any suggestions? Heat? soaking? Help!

[dbtroudy]

Robin, First, congratulations on your LTD. Welcome to the LTD club. They are fun bikes and no other GL1000 compares to their performance. I've owed four GL1000, and my LTD is nothing like the other three. You'll be amazed once you get it running.

You asked about the LTD paint color. The only source I've been able to find is this website for CB750 paint. Apparently Honda used the Candy Garnett Brown on 1971 CB750's and CB550's. Check this location out.
http://www.vintagehondapaint.com/SITE/V ... PAINT.html

Your other option is to take a take a part to your local automotive paint store and see if they can match the color. With a silver base and candy brown mist and a clear coat over the top, it will be hard to match exactly, but you can come close with someone who knows how to match the paint.

Don

[robin1731]

Robin, I took a close look at the valve cover area. Those marks which appear to be rust are grease/oil stains. They wiped right off. I have managed to get 3 of the brake pistons out. One came out by air (glad it wasn't pointed at anyone!) and two came out with grease. One is being very stubborn. The pressure with the grease gun gets so great that the grease comes out the gun fitting instead. Any suggestions? Heat? soaking? Help!

Don't soak it in any penetrant, ie; PB-Blaster or such. That makes the rubber swell and makes it even harder to get them out. Some heat may work. You could even try putting them in boiling water for a few minutes. I have had some that were so bad though that I had to sacrifice the piston. I grabbed it with pliers and just gorilla'd it out. Do that as a last resort though. You can get new pistons, thats why I wasn't too worried about doing it.