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I dont think I would have enough nerve to grind off plastic wholy crap nahhhh

Thank you very much, Octane!
This makes it esay to understand-very good work!!
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76 gl1000

Thanks for the write up with photos, better than the Dyna instructions on their site.

A few points -
1 Just how do you get in there and get your eyes right over the alignment marks??? I cant be the only one who finds this difficult.
Viewing from the LHS of the bike gives errors with the bodywork in the way. I used a small torch where I would like my eyes to be and timed to the shaddow of a piece wire laid across the crankcase marks.
How do others manage this?

2. On the photo of the flywheel and crakcase marks aligning, the 1 and 2 is below the F and T, on my 76 Wing the 1 and 2 come after the T mark. Just a different build standard?

3. My genny bolt cover will not come off, I had a 1/2 inch socket on it when the battery case was out, and gave it several 'technical taps' with a club hammer, to no avail and those shallow flats are now rounded, as I think they were before I started. I just could not face a chisel job, not easy in that recess, so it stayed as it is. Any hints on removal?

I turn the engine with the kick starter , no problem with the plugs out and you can get very precise slight movement by tapping it with a rubber hammer.

OK guys, here's one for you. I have a dyanas electronic ignition the number stamped on the ring is 9420. I fabricated a light for the static timing and adjusted as instructed. but when started the thing won't run. It coughs, spits and backfires through the exhaust. Advancing the timing get's her to purring but you can tell there's a loss of power. I'm advancing almost to the full advance mark. Checked the belts and everything is in line. Took a good look at the advancer and it looks to be good. I didn't install this electronic ignition and am trying to find out if it is the proper part. I looked on Crescent moon to see if the part numbers match.
Perplexed!

Noticed no one wanted to touch my last post. Well an up date on the timing problem was between me and the issue. I walked away and tried again the next day. I spent over an hour making sure the timing was spot on and she cranked up and ran OK. I decided to stick her back together and get in some seat time to see how she would run. Great power and back to rolling down the highway smooth. I still need to re-sync the carbs, I still have that pesky high idle problem. I recently switched out the 763 carbs for 764's because the older ones had been apart so many times that bowl screws were stripped out. So I'm still working that old issue with idle.

Thanks for a great post.

dt

Ya mean you never herd of the old module grinding procedure? They dident tell you dat in the destructions? I had the exact same issue. I suppose you could look at it like its part of the fun of it! As long as you can end up with some grins and have everything turn key! Of course it always helps to have a great forum.... NGW!! I used to build alot of Oldsmobiles and Chevrolets, one of my faveriot sources is Joe Mondello, one time when I as gettin frustrated with aftermarket $%^%&^&%$#@ He said sometimes, STOCK IS BEST! Also I am a firm believer in OEM when ever possible!

Now couple segestions, build 2 lights so you dont have to switch back and forth, even use the right color wire for the aproperate F1, F2, use a 12 mm socket, ratchet and even 3/8 drive breakover bar is helpful on the gen bolt, trying to find just the right wrench?? I started to bend on and I said f that. Also take the fireing pins out so the engine rotates easy. Cool beans!

Put ur knees in the breeze
run er to the peg
I like this from the Whisky guy
go out as a skid mark, holy sh#t what ride!
Life is good!

Hampster showed me why there is no reason to have to grind the Dyna. We'll get some pictures up about it soon...

Great sunnbobb, be lookn forward to it, several fellas including myself had same issue. Thanks

We'll get it done this week. Hamp wanted to shoot pics the other day, but all I could think about was getting it dialed in and firing up.

sunnbobb wrote:We'll get it done this week. Hamp wanted to shoot pics the other day, but all I could think about was getting it dialed in and firing up.

shoot pics or ride? shoot pics or ride? hmm...

heraldhamster wrote:

sunnbobb wrote:We'll get it done this week. Hamp wanted to shoot pics the other day, but all I could think about was getting it dialed in and firing up.

shoot pics or ride? shoot pics or ride? hmm...[/quot

Hell ya, ride! I'd be ridn too, septn my critter is not timen sparkn to the pins! That scribe and file is startn to look pretty good! Dont need any pics any way, just need a clue and i cant finger it out.

boogie red wrote:Hell ya, ride! I'd be ridn too, septn my critter is not timen sparkn to the pins! That scribe and file is startn to look pretty good! Dont need any pics any way, just need a clue and i cant finger it out.

there's a silver Phillips adjustment screw on the underneath side of the bottom plate of the Dyna. you can't see it once it's installed. you'll have to remove the entire Dyna plate that the modules reside on. after removing the rotor bug on the spring advance mechanism.
loosen that screw on the bottom AND the Allen screw on the top side & shift the 3/4 module over to give you more room to shift the 1/2 module. no grinding necessary.

(hmm, seems BBcode is off, from the original posting. that's why our quotes aren't showing up as quotes)

hmm, i can't get in to edit it for you either, sorry.

sunnbobb wrote:hmm, i can't get in to edit it for you either, sorry.

Is that something new? you should be able to edit

[quote="heraldhamster"][quote="boogie red"]Hell ya, ride! I'd be ridn too, septn my critter is not timen sparkn to the pins! That scribe and file is startn to look pretty good! Dont need any pics any way, just need a clue and i cant finger it out.[/quote]


there's a silver Phillips adjustment screw on the underneath side of the bottom plate of the Dyna. you can't see it once it's installed. you'll have to remove the entire Dyna plate that the modules reside on. after removing the rotor bug on the spring advance mechanism.
loosen that screw on the bottom AND the Allen screw on the top side & shift the 3/4 module over to give you more room to shift the 1/2 module. no grinding necessary.

Da.....That pretty funny, all that does is retard the timing for that module and then ur back to square one. its ok hammy baby, get back in ur cage and get ur jollies from someone else

(hmm, seems BBcode is off, from the original posting. that's why our quotes aren't showing up as quotes)[/quote]