Help: Runs worse after timing

[CYBORG]

I agree. C5 is the easiest for setting the timing, If it takes you more then two minutes to do, you must have stopped for a beer

[jdvorchak]

There are only a couple of ways to reliably check for spark. one is that spark plug that has a window in it. Never seen one in real life. The other is a spark tester like hot rodders use and I have one.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Thexton-404-A ... ethod=p13n

[groupus]

Bad plug maybe, How were you checking for spark?

I pulled the plug and held it against a ground like the intake runner bolt. I tried several other NGK D8EA plugs I had lying around. They all had spark and it didn't look noticeably weak.

I've had folks recommend the C5 ignition before and I understand why. It is the best system that money can buy. You can't top an optical reader for reliability and precision. It is also the most expensive at $549. But this is 110% of the purchase price of the bike. I also considered transistorized systems. I know that the Dyna is magnetic and that there have been some reliability issues. I've already ordered the Dyna just because it is the best value other than stock and I do not want to worry about setting points and timing halfway through my cross country trip. I'll keep the old points plate in a side bag and pray I won't need it.

So I'm positive that the new Dyna coils are just masking the problem better. It still acts the same, but it does have more power so it's not as noticeable at higher RPMs. Still no guts, especially when taking off. Still some missing and surging at speed and occasionally popping of unburnt fuel in the exhaust. We played around with testing the stator, reg/rec, and charging system again. I also tested and swapped the 2 diodes, which were good. I'm pretty much grasping at straws. I do not know what else to check. I did notice the #4 header was also a little cooler this morning, but not as bad as #3. This point back to the one coil, but with no change after swapping the coils and the points and condenser, I have run out of ideas. Literally every component has been replaced or refreshed. I'm going to have to trace every wire and check and clean every connection. I'll clean and rebuild the ignition and handlebar switch too. I'm looking at replacement bikes on craigslist

[salukispeed]

Stupid question here but has the cam lobe worn away and not allow the valve to open fully?? Slightly Similar issue back in the mid 70's with chevy V8 flat cams. And did you try a snort of starting fluid on just #3 to see if it shapes up Sorry if I missed these suggestions along the way.

[groupus]

The bike has 28K miles on it, but I have no way to really check. The cams looked great when I had them out. I suppose it could be a poor lap job on the valves or something. Compression is good though, but I'll recheck it when the bike is cold. I still suspect something electrical but I'm also naively optimistic that it is not an engine issue. Could get some starting fluid today and try that today.

[BikeMaine]

There are only a couple of ways to reliably check for spark. one is that spark plug that has a window in it. Never seen one in real life. The other is a spark tester like hot rodders use and I have one.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Thexton-404-A ... ethod=p13n

I bought an in-line spark tester at Harbor Freight for $5 and it works well.

The problem with removing a plug and grounding it to check the spark, is it might spark outside the cylinder, but fail to spark under compression.

[gltriker]

I read through the entire thread and have noticed no suspicions of exhaust restriction have been discussed.

[groupus]

I read through the entire thread and have noticed no suspicions of exhaust restriction have been discussed.

Good point. I didn't notice anything when I had the exhaust off, but I wasn't really looking. There is plenty of exhaust coming out both tailpipes, but that doesn't mean that it's not blocked further up. Added to the list of "things to check".

Ignition should be here today. God bless amazon Prime. Today is the last day of school (HS teacher) so I will have a week and a half of uninterrupted time to figure this out.

[BikeMaine]

I read through the entire thread and have noticed no suspicions of exhaust restriction have been discussed.

Good point. I didn't notice anything when I had the exhaust off, but I wasn't really looking. There is plenty of exhaust coming out both tailpipes, but that doesn't mean that it's not blocked further up. Added to the list of "things to check".

Ignition should be here today. God bless amazon Prime. Today is the last day of school (HS teacher) so I will have a week and a half of uninterrupted time to figure this out.

I teach in a middle school, our last day is June 15th and then I'm a free man until September.

[Whiskerfish]

Bless you both. I could not do that job!!!

[ericheath]

Me either!!! I totally know how you guys are feeling though. 32 times I felt that way.

[BikeMaine]

Bless you both. I could not do that job!!!

You know, I just had the kids outside running around in the nice weather. The guy working on the baseball field came over and said the same thing.

It gets old real fast this time of year, but after 10 weeks of summer vacation I'm ready to come back.

[groupus]

We'll see how I feel in 10 weeks, but right now it feels pretty good to be done.

New Dyna is installed. After firing it up, the #3 intake runner got so cold that it had condensation on it. It runs strong at higher rpm but still has the same issue. At this point I'm going to just try to compensate for this issue when I resync the carbs, set the idle at like 1200 rpm, and slip the clutch more.

[Whiskerfish]

Put money on something being wrong in that carb

[gltriker]

Put money on something being wrong in that carb

+1
Remove the pilot fuel adjuster screw and see if its tip is broken off.