The Cost of a Decent Paint Job

[wingless1]

dry time and cure time are very different. Dry to touch means the solvents (water is a solvent) have outgassed for the most part. Cured means the chemical reaction in the polymer has finished (for the most part).
Both are heavily affected by temps, humidity, baro pressure and application thickness, thinner types used, amount of thinners used, even the gun used can affect performance.
Assuming that the painter did everything right, as mentioned above (-and it's a big assumption) the dry and cure time can be roughly calculated from the material data sheets that the painter should have, or at least the dealer they bought it from should have.
I have sprayed activated and accelerated acrylics that dried ready to mask in 1/2 hr and were 80% cured, ready to buff, in a couple of days, but they were brittle and hard: chipped easy, no flex on plastic surfaces, so would peel, and got hot enough during the initial cure to scorch the masking paper! (used an accelerant called "Japan Drier" to allow multi colours applied in one day). I have sprayed urethanes that took overnight to dry and weeks to cure to 80%. Have sprayed enamels, put on very thick at owner's request, and against my recommendation, that took weeks to dry beyond a skin and many months to cure.
Epoxies, acrylics and urethanes are pretty consistent as long as they are mixed with the right components in the right ratios-but in small paint shops, that often doesn't happen-you run out of medium acrylic reducer and grab the medium urethane and then everything changes (had a 50' line from a 2 gal pressure pot get "lined" with a 1/4" string of hard plastic in seconds, from mixing a water-based urethane with an acrylic high speed reducer one time).
So, to answer the op question: totally possible that it is still soft-and may be for a lot longer.
You can speed up the cure with heat: several days at high temps (uncomfortable room temps, about as high as you can go without melting parts) will speed things up. You're in Phoenix, so the temps are probably fine for paint cure, so wait a couple of months before washing it or abusing it>

[theburgundian]

It's a good stuff for only $200
For my last bike (LS 650 Boulevard/Savage) I paid €300 for a gloss black with ivory stripes.
If you want to change the color, think about Plasti Dip next time, maybe it will be ok for another project

[SnoBrdr]

It's a good stuff for only $200
For my last bike (LS 650 Boulevard/Savage) I paid €300 for a gloss black with ivory stripes.
If you want to change the color, think about Plasti Dip next time, maybe it will be ok for another project

Have you done this?

The cost of the special equipment looks $$$.

[theburgundian]

Another member here have done it.
It's not expensive, Plasti Dip exists in spray, don't need any compressor.

This product is employs by car tuners and there are good feedbacks using it.

the post is here
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=54943

[Sidecar Bob]

I thought I was the only one who knew about Japan Drier. My Dad always had some in his shop to add to oil based house paint to make it cure faster & tougher. I don't use it in acrylic enamel but I always do when I am using oil based.

[SnoBrdr]

I thought I was the only one who knew about Japan Drier. My Dad always had some in his shop to add to oil based house paint to make it cure faster & tougher. I don't use it in acrylic enamel but I always do when I am using oil based.

Most people don't know as most people never use oil based paints in their home.

[Sidecar Bob]

There is something in latex paint that bothers me. Just the smell of it makes my stomach turn so I can only use it outdoors or with really good ventilation so I prefer to use oil based whenever possible. I also use a urethane based rust paint for Eccles and always use Jap Drier in it, especially when I spray it.

[SnoBrdr]

There is something in latex paint that bothers me. Just the smell of it makes my stomach turn so I can only use it outdoors or with really good ventilation so I prefer to use oil based whenever possible. I also use a urethane based rust paint for Eccles and always use Jap Drier in it, especially when I spray it.

I love using oil based but it is a pita to clean up.

[theburgundian]

you also can use acrylic paint mixed with silicone base, but you might be a very good painter to have a nice result. I made it in the Inside of my luggage, "to hide the misery" as we say in French, but the result is not ugly and the luggage is waterproof.

[Irishman1]

I did my wife's free 75 back to as close as I could come to anteres red without buying the vmr paint. They wanted $79.00 per rattle can or more for pints. I used duplicolor resto red and clear acrylic. $5.00 per can x 5 cans

[tomk1960]

I did my wife's free 75 back to as close as I could come to anteres red without buying the vmr paint. They wanted $79.00 per rattle can or more for pints. I used duplicolor resto red and clear acrylic. $5.00 per can x 5 cans

Wow - looks awesome. Nice job!

[SnoBrdr]

I did my wife's free 75 back to as close as I could come to anteres red without buying the vmr paint. They wanted $79.00 per rattle can or more for pints. I used duplicolor resto red and clear acrylic. $5.00 per can x 5 cans

Looks great from here but how hard is it and will it chip easily?

[theburgundian]

Great job you've done. Congratulations.

[ericheath]

I have found that rattle can paint jobs hold up great----if you leave them in a dry heated room for around five years.

[Sidecar Bob]

The rattle can green I had on Mr.H for 14 years held up pretty well.