Automotive Coilpack Coversion?

[mooseheadm5]

Mike,
The main advance is from the RPM, but that is for a strictly 2D map. The additional MAP or TPS input is to make a 3D ignition map that takes load into account. This way ignition advance can be increased for low loads, but backed off a little to prevent ping under high loads. For instance, cruising at 5000RPM with the throttle barely open in 3rd gear, you can use lots of advance, but if you are accelerating up a hill through 5000RPM in 5th gear, you cannot run as much advance or you get preignition.

[donspicer2]

Does Honda use a knock sensor in the current engine? that might be a useful prameter. they're cheap in the boneyards, lots of cars use them. the microsquirt has auxiliary inputs for 'creative' purposes. not sure how to include that with the ford system, though.

[LikeMike64]

Mooseheadm5, thanks. I did not know that. It does makes since.

Don, the valves would stop the issue of the the tank losing vacuum at reduced engine loads. Suggestion: connect a single vaccum gage to the the tee with all of the cylinders connected (no tank). Mount it where you can safely see it while riding. Take the bike for a ride and observe how the gage reacts to your driving. I think that will answer your question. I don't intend to put you off, just to help you understand what is happening better.

All, this whole discussion took on new importance for me this weekend, when I had to limp home on 2 cylinders because one of my coils died. I got a good deal ($10 for 3 plus the control module) on a set of GM coils, I already have a Dyna-S ignition installed, so I think I will try Alwing17's suggestion. The Dyna-S is rated to handle coils of > 3 ohm, so with a ballast resistor, it should be fine. Will have to play with spark gap. Stock GL1000 cap will be too little for these higher output coils, and I suspect that the stock GM gap with the electronic control will be too much. Any suggestions or thoughts?

[donspicer1]

my last experiment, I tied the adjacent cylinders directly together to a 3-way tee fitting, then connected the tees together. you're suggesting connecting each manifold directly to a tank, w/a check in each hose, right? that would be different. i still don't see how the tank pressure will fall as engine load drops. but I'm sorta vacant at times, the 'trout' look, all that....

[FirstYearDeek]

my last experiment, I tied the adjacent cylinders directly together to a 3-way tee fitting, then connected the tees together. you're suggesting connecting each manifold directly to a tank, w/a check in each hose, right? that would be different. i still don't see how the tank pressure will fall as engine load drops. but I'm sorta vacant at times, the 'trout' look, all that....

Don, you're correct; if:

1) there were only 5 ports in the tank and
2) all four inlets have 1-way valves and
3) the outlet is connected to the MAP sensor (which is sealed) and
4) there are no leaks at all in the system...

Then the MAP sensor will always read the lowest manifold pressure (highest vacuum) experienced. Evil bad.

The insane people who use motorcycle TB's and stuff on high-revving car 4-cylinders usually tie all the intakes together to one common line and then put a restriction in that line.

The restriction varies depending on the need, but this does often cause some lag in throttle response, and does not prevent "cross talk" which is what LikeMike is describing.

-Deek

[LikeMike64]

my last experiment, I tied the adjacent cylinders directly together to a 3-way tee fitting, then connected the tees together. you're suggesting connecting each manifold directly to a tank, w/a check in each hose, right? that would be different. i still don't see how the tank pressure will fall as engine load drops. but I'm sorta vacant at times, the 'trout' look, all that....

Either, the way you did it, plus a check valve between the tee and the manifold on each cylinder, or a single 5 way tee with a check valve between it and the manifold on each cylinder.

The amount of vacuum generated depends upon a combination of things; engine speed and throttle position primarily, but several other factors also affect it. Engine load does not impact vacuum nearly as much as throttle position (the two are different). Also, remember, without a valve on the lines, air is flowing both ways inside those hoses as the vacuum levels change. This creates all kinds of issues for you.

If you do the test I described, you will get a better feel for it. A picture (or seeing it first hand) is worth a thousand words, and far better than any explanation I can give.

[sunnbobb]

A picture (or seeing it first hand) is worth a thousand words, and far better than any explanation I can give.

As they say in the NFL, "it's time to hit the film room".

[donspicer2]

that's a great deal on the GM coils. Alas, I can't offer much to suggest except, Alwing seems a very willing fellow, why not send him a note? ya, I agree, it's time to build something. I finished the velleman transistor ignition kits, try it out when the weather is willing, and update the results.

[LikeMike64]

Deek, thanks. "Cross talk" is the word I was looking for and could not think of.
Don, I look forward to hearing the results of your ignition kits.

I just had another setback. My house was robbed and ransacked. So far, it looks like they took about $4000 worth of stuff. So, I will be busy the next few days cleaning up, repairing the damage, and comforting my wife and son. He is pretty tore up about it, so I will also be spending more than the usual amount of time with him. That does not leave much time for playing with the bike.

Hopefully, I will be able to install the coils and try them out in a couple weeks.

[FirstYearDeek]

...My house was robbed and ransacked. So far, it looks like they took about $4000 worth of stuff. So, I will be busy the next few days cleaning up, repairing the damage, and comforting my wife and son. He is pretty tore up about it, so I will also be spending more than the usual amount of time with him. That does not leave much time for playing with the bike...

That sucks man... any suspects?

Family first; hope you get things worked out. Don't be afraid to ask for professional help if your son isn't coming around.

-Deek

[alwing17]

Mooseheadm5, thanks. I did not know that. It does makes since.



All, this whole discussion took on new importance for me this weekend, when I had to limp home on 2 cylinders because one of my coils died. I got a good deal ($10 for 3 plus the control module) on a set of GM coils, I already have a Dyna-S ignition installed, so I think I will try Alwing17's suggestion. The Dyna-S is rated to handle coils of > 3 ohm, so with a ballast resistor, it should be fine. Will have to play with spark gap. Stock GL1000 cap will be too little for these higher output coils, and I suspect that the stock GM gap with the electronic control will be too much. Any suggestions or thoughts?

Glad to hear you got a deal on those coils! And sorry to hear about the home intrusion.I guess I should elaborate on my Zonker setup...
I am running '82 1100 carbs w/the main jet needle shimmed up w/the same size washer that Randakk suggests for his '77 carb modification.
My ignition timing is slightly advanced,I estimate about 5 degrees,with my plug gap set@.030 NGK D8ES Plugs
Air cleaner opened up(no snorkel,holes cut around the perimeter) K&N air filter.
My exhaust is aftermarket H-D mufflers from a FLH...I do not know the brand,but I believe they are a glasspack style,may be even some JC Whitney H-D mufflers(my zonker photos are in the gallery)
The bike in about 2000 miles this summer has exhibited excellent start-up qualities,idles nicely,fantastic throttle response,and good top end...Roll-on power from 5000RPM is great!
I am sure if I rebuilt a set of 1000 carbs correct for the motor,I may get a little more top end,but as it sits right now,I am happy with the results! I ride with some guys that have Twin-Cam 88's and 96's w/the Stage 1 kits installed... I take them down easily!<grin>

[donspicer1]

I am so sorry for you. It's happened to me a few times as well. good luck. think about lighting, security systems, etc. I found that once they've cased your home, the word gets around in the low-life community.

[LikeMike64]

Thanks all!

They left all of the tools, and my work stuff (server, routers, etc.). So I am concerned they might come back. Lighting & security system will be my next project (before anything else is done on the bike).

I guess they worked up a thirst with all of that work overturning the house, they took some beers from the fridge too. lol

[JBz]

are these the ones and would they work on a 82gl1100 with factory electronic. Thanks JB http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... K:MEWAX:IT

[alwing17]

I am sure they could work...providing you check the primary resistance is around 3 ohms...The GM coils are much more plentiful,easier to mount,and have good reliability. They can be found on most GM products1988-2005.
These coils are 70-80K output voltage,more than enough to handle anything you can throw at them. Increasing your plug gap to .035 is possible,gives you a bigger spark @ the plug,these coils,when mounted on the bike,before you plug the wires on,crank the engine over...The spark produced will jump the gap between the coil towers...More than 1 inch!!