Look what I got from Sabre Cycles buyer beware

[robin1731]

You don't need a special tool to lap the valves. I slide a piece or fuel line over the end of the valve stem. Then turn that with both hands. You can also put a little pressure on the head of the valve while turning the hose with the other hand. Turn the valve back and forth a few times. The lift the head off of the seat. Rotate the valve about 45 degrees or so and do it again. Repeat as needed. Doesn't take a lot of compound either. And make sure you clean the heads thoroughly when done. That compound is abrasive so you want it all gone when completed.

[Recycled Roadkill]

I've never lapped valves in my life and hadn't realized it was so easy. I'd imagined hooking a drill to it and about a hour of running it. I'm happy to hear it's so easy.

[robin1731]

There are other ways to do it. You do have to twist the valves back and forth though. Not just in one direction. I'd bet there are vids of the process on you-tube. Probably a lot of different ways though.

[CharlieP]

Yep - fuel line - and - I turn the head so the stem is pointed down and stick a long #1 phillips screwdriver in the hose for weight.

[NewWinger]

I had to lap some small engine valves and did not think about the fuel hose idea.
My wife did have an electric glue gun though and I used a 1/2" wooden dowel that I glued to the top of the valve Worked Great, once done you just snap off the dowel and the glue peels off with it.

[groupus]

Ok, so where do i get parts from now? I checked all the regular GW parts dealers like cascade, pistol Pete, randakk, etc and they don't sell anything i need other than timing belts. Where should i look for things like valves, seals, head gaskets and can seals? I'm a little apprehensive of Ebay stuff now.

[Roady]

You could start with the list of vendors in the "New2U" thread.

(Button below in my sig.)

[robin1731]

You could start with the list of vendors in the "New2U" thread.

(Button below in my sig.)

Use OEM head gaskets. Used valves are fine. As long as they are straight and not pitted. Crossover section has numbers for cam seals. You could use OEM valve seals but they are pricey. I use aftermarket all the time. You will need the O-rings for the oil restrictors in the head. Get those the same time you get the head gaskets. 2 for each head. I use OEM gaskets for the water pipe connections on the top of the heads. Might as well put new cam cover gaskets on too. I get those on ebay from georgefix. Same guy I get valve seals from. Also get the rubber grommets for the valve cover bolts from him.

That's most of what you need. Like Roady said too, check out the vendors list.

[groupus]

Update: it's been slow work as I have mostly been reluctant to dive right into this project. I did pull the exhaust valves out. Yup, they're bent. Intakes are fine.


Thanks to brianinpa for donating 2 heads from a '77 for me to scavenge parts, and for giving me some motivation . I currently have all the valves soaking to remove all the gunk. I also robbed the exhaust studs since mine were pretty rusty. The plan today is to get some valve lapping compound to start that and cleaners to remove the old head gasket. I also need to order parts from various different sources. I've done a lot of research and made a ton of notes, but the process is slow because I've been without reliable internet for a while.

I will also be rebuilding the timing belt tensioners with the idler pulley as per the instructions in this DIY: http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/10- ... -25-a.html. After having these belts snap, I'm very apprehensive about reusing the old ones again . Also, this looks like a really cool project that will even improve over the stock quality (usually my hack jobs are the opposite ).

Here's my parts breakdown (mostly for my reference):
valves - scavenged
valve seals - ebay $15/8
Head gasket - Service Honda $41 + shipping
Water joint and front and rear cam paper gaskets - made from gasket paper
Cam seals, crank seal, exhaust gaskets, Gates timing belts, and idler pulleys - Rock Auto, impressively cheap at $70 shipped
*By the way, the cam seals are only $0.94 on closeout, if anyone is looking for those.

The oil restrictor o-rings are only available through OEM sources and are size 4.1x1.5 and 6.5x1.5mm. I have a multi-pack of nitrile rings with sizes 4x1.9 and 6x1.9 or 6.8x1.9mm (Correction: It's 4.8X19, Which Is Probably too Big). Has anybody tried replacing them with standard nitrile o-rings? judging by the condition of the originals, it looks like they get compressed pretty hard. The larger one had been pressed into a sleeve shape around the part, see below. Left to right: original condition, cleaned, and testing o-rings.

[Roady]

I used "best-fitting" o-rings from NAPA when I did my head gaskets ... oh, about 5 years ago. Seems they might hold up.

[groupus]

I used "best-fitting" o-rings from NAPA when I did my head gaskets ... oh, about 5 years ago. Seems they might hold up.

Yeah, I figure it doesn't matter too much since the o-rings get mashed pretty hard into whatever shape they need to be. I just don't want the whole thing to fail b/c i cheaped out on $5 worth of parts :/

[groupus]

turns out my right cam pulley is cracked from when i rear ended a car (mentioned in post 67 of my original build, here http://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... 2&start=60 ). I thought it was only the cover that was damaged, but apparently I was wrong . The pulley is slightly misshapen. You would think that this could have caused the belt to break, but it was the LEFT side that snapped. Good thing I'm replacing all the cam seals or i probably would have missed that. *sigh* now I'll be looking for more parts.

[robin1731]

turns out my right cam pulley is cracked from when i rear ended a car (mentioned in post 67 of my original build, here http://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... 2&start=60 ). I thought it was only the cover that was damaged, but apparently I was wrong . The pulley is slightly misshapen. You would think that this could have caused the belt to break, but it was the LEFT side that snapped. Good thing I'm replacing all the cam seals or i probably would have missed that. *sigh* now I'll be looking for more parts.

Check to make sure the cam is still straight too.

[CYBORG]

i have a large selection of used cam pulleys if you are in the market

[Toehead]

I do as well. Just let us know.