1978 GL1000 Restoration

[NotSoLilCrippseys]

Those front cover screws can really be a hassle. Impact driver is a great tip. Give yourself a high five if you get them free without stripping at least one.

You can put bolts in to replace the screws, making things much easier on the next person who opens the front cover. I think Robin1731 might sell them as a set - or maybe used to sell them.

[GalDemSuga]

Those front cover screws can really be a hassle. Impact driver is a great tip. Give yourself a high five if you get them free without stripping at least one.

You can put bolts in to replace the screws, making things much easier on the next person who opens the front cover. I think Robin1731 might sell them as a set - or maybe used to sell them.

I'd planned on replacing them with regular bolts. I will reach out to Robin1731. Thanks

[GalDemSuga]

I got around to doing some work today very minor, but something was done. I drained the oil and I got 6 quarts, which was a mixture of oil and gasoline. I also drained the fuel tank and found that it had a drain plug, which was leaking badly. I took a picture of where the drain plug is located.

It is so hot in Texas that I got distracted with retrofitting my 2003 Tahoe 4WD with factory electric fans to make the AC more efficient and keep the truck cool.

[GalDemSuga]

Japanese Industrial Standard

I should have the appropriate bits. If not, I will have to go to the parts store.

I tried using the JIS bits in my factory toolbox and it didn't work. I got two damaged screws now These suckers won't budge. I will now use some info I just read in ShopTalk section. I have some punches I can employ or worse case I get a dremel tool and cut off all of the screw heads.

[GalDemSuga]

So I went with the chisel and 5lb steel hammer, it took awhile but I got all those screws out. I think I going with Permatex Right Stuff followed by the case gasket and then another layer of Permatex when I put it back together. Someone has been at this cooling system before and the thermostat is a 82°F.

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I have atleast one mounting bolt hole on the water pipe to repair.

I spent a couple hours painfully cleaning the 40 year old gasket off.

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The water pump seems to be original with a plastic impeller and its quite loose. I could see where the both seals were failing.

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[GalDemSuga]

Today I got the water pump fitted with all new o-rings and sealsl. Next step will be the valve seals and the cam seals. A big thank you to Robin for the replacement screws for the front cover.

[GalDemSuga]

Today, I got the damaged water passage pipe mount hole repaired using a M8 helicoil. There wasn't enough meat left from the damage to do anything else besides welding it up and unfortunately I can't weld nor do I have the equipment to weld. I also modified the fuel pump housing and now I need to get it welded up.

[NotSoLilCrippseys]

You've had your fair share of broken bolts, but you''re persevering. Great!

Nice job swapping out the water pump. Carry that momentum when you hit your next roadblock, which will hopefully only prove small and temporary.

I've not yet dealt with a leaky fuel tank drain bolt on these bikes (thankfully). But I think you can find some guidance here somewhere if you've got a failed seal. Honestly, I've always been afraid of disturbing whatever gasket material has been keeping the plugs from leaking on the couple I've worked on. While it is surely easier to drain old gas from the bottom, I've either pulled the tank and turned it over or siphoned it out, followed by a vacuum pump, a rag and long needle nose pliers, and evaporation.

[GalDemSuga]

You've had your fair share of broken bolts, but you''re persevering. Great!

Nice job swapping out the water pump. Carry that momentum when you hit your next roadblock, which will hopefully only prove small and temporary.

I've not yet dealt with a leaky fuel tank drain bolt on these bikes (thankfully). But I think you can find some guidance here somewhere if you've got a failed seal. Honestly, I've always been afraid of disturbing whatever gasket material has been keeping the plugs from leaking on the couple I've worked on. While it is surely easier to drain old gas from the bottom, I've either pulled the tank and turned it over or siphoned it out, followed by a vacuum pump, a rag and long needle nose pliers, and evaporation.

It hasn’t been too bad. I will get back to it this coming week. There is still much to do, I hope to have the valve seals done tomorrow and timing belts refitted. My fuel pump bracket mod came out nice, just sanding and a little paint needed. The cooling system is also back together.

[GalDemSuga]

I got the valve seals done. The cams are back on and torqued up. I did finish the tensioners and fitted the new belts but I was uncomfortable with the left pulley marks and took it back apart. I will try again tomorrow. The left pulley seemed to be one tooth off but trying to move it forward kept resulting in the T1 Mark moving forward slightly.

[pidjones]

Use care to be on the same level with the marks when viewing them. Parallax can be large with the distance between them.

[GalDemSuga]

Use care to be on the same level with the marks when viewing them. Parallax can be large with the distance between them.

I got down on the ground and viewed them while setting the belts today. The small arrow on the pulleys now line up with the backing plate. I gave the engine a few rotations when I got done and the marks line up. I tensioned the belts enough to be able to twist them 90° and then torqued the tensioners. I will do the valve adjustment tomorrow. My Clymer manual has both the In and Ex @ 0.10mm (0.004in).

[GalDemSuga]

I went ahead and did the valve adjustment.

[rcmatt007]

the two teeth never perfectly line up. one tooth off is too much.... now if I could figure out who to insert "to" inTO the comment

[GalDemSuga]

the two teeth never perfectly line up. one tooth off is too much.... now if I could figure out who to insert "to" inTO the comment

I did manage to sort it out. Both arrows now line up perfectly. Right now I’m torn on whether or not to sand off the Chrome on the valve covers and the timing cover because of pitting and chips, and then paint the parts before refitting to the bike. I like the fact that the bike is 40 years old at the same time I don’t want it to seem too neglected.