melloyellow to live again!

[johnallen337]

I have a "Parts Bike" DOM 2/75 S/N GL1-1000696-sad shape but anything you want I will see if it's there and try to get pics if still interested will pull and ship to you. Btw I work 14 days on an 14 off so sometimes takes a couple weeks to get to it.

[ericheath]

I have used a stainless self-tapper a little bigger than the original hole to replace. Being soft aluminum, you can just give a little pressure to cut its own threads. You may have to trim them to length after tapping so they don't go through and take the other side out. Better than multiple washers as I have seen. Check the curvature of the black "u-shaped" piece that holds the jets in place. It is meant to be touching the bottom of the bowl. I had one set that I chased leaks forever before noticing they had been bent too much. In trying to tighten the bowl down to where it belonged, you would strip the screws. I re-bent them to where they just contacted the bowl and , no more leaks.

[polkadot]

Eric, Thanks for the tip. I will double check those, but I think they touched just before the top of the bowl seated on the carb body. I swear that if these carbs work it will be a miracle. I think the over/under on the number of times the carbs are removed from the bike before they function should be 3. Anyone wish to put their bets down? (I really hope its under!) Ernie

[Roady]

1st time is a charm.

[polkadot]

Roady, Thanks for the confidence. We shall see. I moved most of the bike up to the garage.

I cleaned, used the wire wheel and got parts ready for polishing. Here's the "to be polished" box.

As usual, when I'm doing mindless work like this, I start thinking about the next step. I think I'll start working on the engine next. I was trying to figure out how far to go. I do not know if the water pump and seals etc. are good or not. Should I just clean it up and hope for the best or do I take it apart and see what I have?

Same with the back of the motor. Should I take the back cover off?

I would like to see what it looks like. It would only cost me a gasket or two. The kick starter is stuck anyway and I am wondering what those rollers look like inside the starter clutch. What do you guys think?

[STREETWING78]

There is no better time than now !! Ya oughta be able to grab the
waterpump with the cover off and feel for the wobble. Believe me you'll
know if its bad. Kicker stuck on my black 76 also, Are ya gonna use it??
My parts is a pile in the garage now,what do ya need?

talk to soon...

[robin1731]

That will give you a chance to look the clutch over real well too.

[polkadot]

Started thinking about the tires. Date code on the front was 066 and rear was 295. They look great but I think those numbers mean they were manufactured in 95 and 96 (or 85 and 86) right? Anything after 2000 would have 4 digits, right? I guess I'll be replacing them, right? I am trying to keep the cost down because the game plan is to sell the bike, but I want to do it right. I put Dunlops on the 77, is there anything I should consider instead?

[polkadot]

More cleaning. I did remove the water pump cover. Yes it wiggled. It had even slightly scored the inside surface because of the wobble I suspect. It would probably work, but for how long? It will be replaced. I can not seem to find the end point, but I think I'm getting close.

[lcallison]

On the stripped threads on your carb bodies. I use Time Sert inserts to repair them. You can buy a kit from Time Sert that has a drill bit, tap, and insert tool that works very well. I have one set of carbs that only has one or two untouched threads.

[polkadot]

Icallison, Thanks for the reply. I saw the tech tip on Randakk and it looks like a great little system, but I am trying to avoid $75 for a tool I may never (or rarely) use again. I'm trying the jb weld tonite or tomorrow and may yet need that tool if not successful. I'll keep you posted.

[polkadot]

I got home from work a little early so I dove into the bike. I talked with someone about repairing the frame, (the threaded insert that receives the bolt holding down the seat has pushed in to the frame) so I decided to clean it up. I went over it with simple green concentrate and steel wool. It cleaned up real well and should not need too much work before paint. That cleaner does a great job and is not as harsh as brake cleaner etc. Anyway, after that I decided to work on the gauges. I took them apart completely for cleaning and polishing. I have looked hi and low for replacement cushions to no avail. I decided to make some. I bought a piece of neoprene foam rubber for $9. I then cut a strip off.

I fitted them into the chrome covers and then realized they were too thick. ( I bought 3/8 and 1/4 would have been perfect. I trimmed off an 1/8th of an inch and they fit perfect.

I tried to cut a bevel on the top, but was not satisfied. I decided that the flat top looked just fine. It is definitely not show quality, but not bad either. The main thing is that it holds the gauges in solid.



Then I tested the lights in the gauges and they worked fine.

Last I decided to see if the carb bowls would hold with the JB weld. I think they will, but I would not do that again. I know if I have to take those bowls off, I will be "fixing" those threaded holes right. The PO must have been a gorilla

I then took the covers and chrome trim off for future polishing. Too tired for more tonight.

[ericheath]

It looks like you used the caveman method to cut new threads for the bowls. One thing I didn't mention is that the self-tappers will leave a ridge of the new thread material sticking up enough to make your bowls leak. I had to remove the bowls and "chip" the edges a bit and then re-install. There are other posts here on hooking up a quart or so of fuel hung a few feet, (6 feet? ) attached to the carb rack with a tube to test for leaks before reinstall. I think that is worth the time and effort. Don't ask me how I know that.

[polkadot]

Eric, I won't ask, but thanks. I did run a 4mm tap through the holes. I never thought of a test like that, but will definatly do it. I will let you know. I do have extra carb bodies if needed. I hope not to have to disassemble and redo everything, but better now than later.

[polkadot]

Eric, I just did a search and found this thread: http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... +carb+rack Is that what you meant? If the floats are working, would the gas even get to the level of the gasket where the carb body and bowl meet?