1978 GL 1000 "The Tank" Resoration Project

[Track T 2411]

Check out this link for Honda of Hollister. Much better price listed for water pump. I've not done business with them, so can't comment on that part...
http://www.hondapartsline.com/fiche_sec ... &fveh=3428

Good wrenchin'
Todd

p.s. Thanks to Placerville for that linky!

[polkadot]

I just ordered a bunch of stuff from them. Tracking says I get them tomorrow. I am happy the way I have been treated so far.

[shieldsm]

Thanks Todd for the Hollister link for the water pump. yes, much cheaper!

Update to project:

-Dissasembly complete. Removing steering races was a chore! I think the gear puller I purchased was too big.
-Preparing parts for powder coating. Lots of cleaning!
-Ordering water pump and gasket/seal kit today.
-Will start work on the engine today. Basically getting a feel for everything.

Couple questions:
-I want to pull the clutch cover to take a look inside. I was wondering about getting Bartlett's performance clutch kit. Would this be a worthwhile mod? I just want to make sure everything inside is clean and such and since I am inside I wanted to possible do this upgrade.

-Starter. It seemed sluggish but I have not looked inside to see how bad the brushes are. Randakk recommends buying a new starter versus doing a rebuild. What are your thoughts on this?

-Fork inner seals. Having a hell of a time getting these removed after removing circle clip. I bought a seal puller but they are in so tight I don't want to nick the inside. Also I wanted to powder coat the lower fork housing. Is this a good idea. Tad nervous about the heat and what it will do to the inside.

-Lower steering stem. Again having a hard time removing the lower seal. Any suggestions?

As always thanks for the guidance and more imortantly the inspiration!

[rcmatt007]

starter brushes are cheap... but the whole guts not so

[giant81]

Pretty good list, that. I'd also add that you will need to be looking at the brakes before taking a ride, even a test ride. The caliper can lock up very easily if they haven't been in service for a while. I'd do the start-up procedure as above, and then move on through the brake system. Going fast is fun, but ya gotta stop some time!!!

Good wrenchin'
Todd

I second this only because it happened to me. Heck, I even test rode, and drove it home (70mi) without incident. Then took it for a ride around the block and BOOM, low sided it when the brakes locked up.

[robin1731]

-Fork inner seals. Having a hell of a time getting these removed after removing circle clip. I bought a seal puller but they are in so tight I don't want to nick the inside. Also I wanted to powder coat the lower fork housing. Is this a good idea. Tad nervous about the heat and what it will do to the inside.

Go back to Randakks site. He shows how to make a tool to remove the seals. I have used mine on a lot of different forks. It works great.

[shieldsm]

Thanks for the tip on the fork seals! I hope installing new ones will not be this difficult!

[shieldsm]

Hello All!

Brought everthing to my buddies plant that will do my powder coating. Frame is going be candy apple red...we shall see. Getting the final drive out of the swing arm (that dang circle clip) was a chore but accomplished. Issues I am having:

1) That lower steering race/seal deal on the stem. I have tried all suggestions. There is that bottom metal seal deal that just crunchs when trying to pry off.

2) Those D@#n inner fork seals. I swear the PO must have glued those suckers in! Tried PB plaster, the tool that was suggestion but it will not budge. Is it time for heat?

Took a look at the rear brake. Everything was seized! Tip of the day: when using air pressure to remove a stuck piston BE CAREFUL! I almost shot my eye out with a flying piston! Also my wall was sprayed with brake fluid (tip #2 cover the OTHER hole with your finger when applying air!)

[rcmatt007]

they do come out with great alacrity

[robin1731]

2) Those D@#n inner fork seals. I swear the PO must have glued those suckers in! Tried PB plaster, the tool that was suggestion but it will not budge. Is it time for heat?

They may have put some sealer on them. You did a bad thing adding the PB blaster. It just makes rubber swell and makes them harder to remove. A little heat might help. I have used a heat gun but don't hold in one spot very long. And you don't need to get it real hot either. Too much heat will yellow the fork lowers.

[shieldsm]

Plan to start working on the engine soon. Waiting for new water pump and seal kit.

Plan to crack open and clean out the clutch assembly and plates. I am not sold on getting new Bartlett friction plates so I want to ask the question: If I clean up everything and the plates /discs are in spec should I be good to go? Any upgrades here that are worthwhile?

[rcmatt007]

I am running an OEM clutch, did so even with a sidecar. Did replace the clutch once, but only cause I had the engine out trying to fix the infamous starter whirrrrrrrrr

[shieldsm]

Rodger-

Thanks. I like that idea. I heard there were issues with the damper plate but if everything looks good, I will just inspect, clean and reassemble. New clutch cable and thats about it (hopefully). Money needs to be spent elseware...

[shieldsm]

Starting work on the engine:

2011-05-02_18-23-00_547.jpg

Disassembled the water pump assembly last night. The pump was ready for replacement as it wobbled enough to rub against the edge of the cover leaving a nice black streak. Thankfully no harm done as everything looked pretty clean inside...well except for the gasket that is baked on.

2011-05-02_18-23-14_482.jpg

Bummer, my water pump parts are not in yet so I will have to move on to the rear and take a look at the clutch:

2011-05-03_18-25-14_794.jpg

I was impressed (so far) as how clean and well lubricated everything was. I have not yet removed the plates as I need to find the right nut remover. I don't plan on doing any changes to the plates as long as they meet spec. Basically just clean things up and make sure there is not issues.

Right now it will be a waiting game for parts to come in. I see Cresent Moon has the good complete gasket set but I don't think I want to wait 4 to 6 weeks. Anyone know of another worthwile place to get a gasket set. I saw a set on Sirus Consolidated that I know Randakk uses for stuff. I like to support the guys on the site but fast shipping is kinda a must.

I have the engine covered nicely with a trash bag as things are disassembled.

[polkadot]

I just put my water pump in this morning. I ordered the water pump seal kit off ebay from Georgefix out of Florida. Their price was about the lowest (sabercycle was less but I refuse to order from them) and I had it in 3 days or so. The kit also included the seal for the oil pump. For what its worth.