Awakening a 20 year sleeper. update.

[Don R]

Update-
I did a Dyna S, 1500 coils and made new wires. The fuel pressure checked but I got a new fuel pump and gaskets/insulators anyway. I bought cam belt tensioner bearing parts as described in the DIY tensioner thread using the Gates T42015 idlers and Dorman 610308 10mm studs. I have a shhhhhh noise in the front so I'll replace those. The tab for the parts was under $50 from Rock Auto. My local parts guy isn't wild about my crazy parts orders. (they don't always work) lol. I still want to pull the carbs for a thorough cleaning this winter.

This pup should be good for a few years after this winter. I'll post the results of the tensioner rebuilds. I'm wondering if I can cut off the idler stud and drill the proper hole for the 10.3 mm splined stud. That will negate the need for a 14mm x 10 mm spacer. I may tig tack the back of the stud also.

[Don R]

Update, I did all of the above and the shhhhh noise is still in there somewhere. The idler swap was awesome though. It still has an irritating come and go miss. One day it runs great and the next it runs awful. I posted a thread about my theory it's sucking air somewhere in the fuel system.

[Don R]

Well, time for an update, I posted on the brake swap, it got V65 front calipers with EBC pads on VT 1100 sabre brackets. Really stops nice. It got an acid washed and lined tank, cleaned internal fuel lines, new external fuel lines, new fuel pump, filter, carbs cleaned several times due to a bad filter, the last two by a pro that I trust and watched. 1500 coils, dyna, new wires and caps, Denso plugs, new manifold o rings.
At times it still acts lean, especially when I roll on throttle about 3,000 rpm. A bit of choke clears it up and it's cold blooded. The plenum has a Randakks gasket set and carb seals. New vacuum pull off kit too. It got really close to 40 mpg last week, mostly on the two lane with two runs up to redline in third gear. It's a bit loud at speed, I suspect there isn't much left in the mufflers. Creeping up on 60,000 miles.

[Don R]

In light of all of that, I'm building a fitting for a wide band o2 sensor that will insert into the pipe and plug into the battery charger lead. Install it and learn the truth.

[Track T 2411]

I'll be interested in your findings. My '76 has the exact same issue from 3-4k RPM'S. I don't recall if you shimmed the needles, but read here somewhere that helps with the later 1000's...

[Don R]

Track T, I searched and didn't find that info but am relieved it might be easily fixed. I am considering shimming the needles. My big mistake was returning the borrowed 1100 carbs I had on it to go to Sturgis. It ran awesome with those on it. My shop owner buddy uses them as a test set when a gl comes in with suspected carb issues.

[Track T 2411]

Don, here's a link to Randakk's blog concerning the shims. While it is mentioned only for the '77's, the description of the symptoms are nearly identical to my '76. It has been suggested by a trusted member here that I give it a go; I just haven't had the time... I have read of others doing the shims on '78's with success.
http://www.randakksblog.com/special-tun ... #more-1086

[robin1731]

Just remember raising the needles, putting shims under the clip, will richen the mixture all the way from about 1/4 throttle to full throttle.

.

[Don R]

Thanks. I hadn't found that info, even though I've looked around that site.
I've been adjusting and cleaning K0 cb750 carbs today and seem to have made a breakthrough on them too. I didn't understand the cable/slide stop adjustment and somehow had #3 way off. That and body shop debris in the freshly painted gas tank made it a rough go.

[Don R]

It was very warm today, 93* in the afternoon. Anyway I gave the oldwing a 1/2 turn of carb screw and rode it. It ran well, loves the heat, hates the cold. The fan runs when it didn't, cools good when it didn't, runs when it didn't. Stops really good when it didn't before, I needed to slap the sidecover to make the solenoid click. I guess it wants my special lawn tractor solenoid swap. Did it on the 79, should work here too.

[Don R]

This is on my 750 K0 836 bike but it's made to be portable. It plugs into a battery tender plug for power and I'll have it on my gl1000 to see some air/fuel ratios soon. It went lean because someone didn't turn the fuel on. good to know it works. Will possibly be an eye opener I'm seeing some rich numbers on the early 4 cable carbs with stock jets.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/7UAPusfFs17T2LR76

Edit the #1 carb had a high float, it's corrected and the plug looks a lot better.

[Don R]

A reminder, if you do brake work double check your bolts before riding and after a check out ride. I lost a front caliper bolt and only knew because I heard it jingle when going through an underpass. One of the guys on sohc4.net sent me a bolt and today it's going on with a dab of blue locktite. I previously stripped a bracket thread (may have been overtorqued when I got it) and may have erred on the side of under tightening.

[Whiskerfish]

Was on a ride with Sagebrush this spring on the 1800 and lost a front caliper bolt. Had to be my screw up. I had the entire front end apart a few weeks prior.

[Fred Camper]

Just proves that we are human. Actual a nice realization.

[Don R]

I bought a new brake line set from Sirius. They arrived today, all three of the front ones have a coiled spring around them. Not shown in the pics but I guess they will be OK. They are all 23" so the lowers are long and will need a bit of s curve. I was hoping they would appear a little more like the picture in the ad and like stock so I could use the rubber grommet and bracket. I did email them but didn't get a reply yet, not sure what time zone they are in.
The feel has been a bit spongey even with the V65 calipers. If the hoses don't help next up is a rebuilt or new M/C.