My Wing: progress shots

[Old Fogey]

I was thinking of using the clear epoxy top coat to keep from oxidizing. Does the clear epoxy yellow over time ??

Would this be of any help?

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=GPC&dept=6

[AttilaB]

Very beautiful and inspiring, Alley Kat.

Digging that paint detail on the fender - can't wait to see it finished!

Attila

[Cookie]

Great stuff sport,

We have a bunch of people over and got nowhere at all on my bike, other than giving everyone rides in the Chang sidecar.
They are so thrilled at American prices I'm having to drive everyone to shopping centers.
At least someone made some progress.

[sodbuster]

Would this be of any help?

That looks like some great stuff. Should hold up well on the fork legs to road grit. Also, sounds like you can brush it on with no brush marks resulting. Have you tried this stuff B4 ?? And if so, what was your impression ??

Thanks for the info.

[Old Fogey]

No, I've not tried it yet. But I had the same thoughts as you a couple of weeks ago and did a bit of hunting.
The company I came up with here is Frost Auto Restoration. They are UK stockists for POR-15
http://www.frost.co.uk/ for those in UK and Europe.
I am just about to order some and will let you know once I've had a chance to use it.

[Alley Kat]

Attila, Cookie, cheers chaps

Re clearcoats on alloy, it'd be interesting to hear how that POR stuff works out. I tried several traditional type clears before and all were not good. One was a waterbased clear that brushed and flowed nicely but was worse than useless at adhesion. Another was a dedicated clear for shiney alloy that I tracked down from a specialist. That cracked/crazed soon.
But I think Brent / Vagrant50 on here has used clear powdercoat on parts, might be worth a post or an ask.

[Alley Kat]

Nothing much to add, nothing good anyway:
CB900 starter relay arrived today and went straight in, so back to trying to get set the timing:

Bearing in mind static with 12v light doesn't work (light stays on for big swing of the crank). Trying to line up centres or leading or trailing edges of the 2 choppers and sensors, making marks by lining up timing marks, none of that worked either.

So onto the strobe, moving the baseplate, while keeping the motor running:
I can get the F1 marks lined up with a strobe, but then the F2 marks aren't visible at all. As if the slot to move the sensor isn't long enough to get the F2 mark into line. The large number of hammer/punch marks in the baseplate indicate the PO had much bother with it too. So this Piranha/Newtronic POS is heading for the bin, after a brief session with the BFH.

Because of mucking about trying to find some sort of tune out of nothing, hot running from excessively retarded timing caused silencer paint and header HT paint to bubble. *&^~@. Kind of an average day.

Got it to some sort of reasonable-ish idle now, based on F1 lining up, and the other sensor hard to the end of it's slot. Dyna S will be ordered soon.

[Cookie]

That's progress sport! Nice to be running at all.
Had my car smashed and grabbed today in SF, they got my laptop which is a bother. We'll start the trip with another car tomorrow.

[Alley Kat]

Slow progress now. Waiting on a Dyna S from brother Frenchy, and I found a water weep to sort. My other half has recovered the shelter cover and the seat. The flash makes them look grey but they're black really.

The glass base was levelled with a filler of resin and fillite powder - think it was moulded off a steel original, it had 'swages' & dips all over. 10mm foam from an army camping mat was laid on. That was shaped and bevelled, then a half inch of softer foam as a scrim went on. The vinyl was glued on, and I rivetted the edges after. My partner did a good job, but she couldn't quite get it 100% wrinkle free, there's a few at the front edge. Pretty good for a first effort though, with some sharp angles to deal with:

[ElPiloto]

You can shrink those wrinkles out with a hair dryer, but don't over do it. If you put too much heat on the vinyl, it will shrink too much and make it worse.

Or, just park the bike outside in warm sunshine and it will shrink a bit.

Or, take it to an upholstery shop and have them do it.

Nice work on everything.

[Cookie]

Nice job, I'd live with it the way it is myself. Pretty original job. I was going to cut up a Harley gunfighter seat for my red bike but now I think i'll just sell it and get soemthing else, it's kind of too good to cut.

[BryanMD]

No, I've not tried it yet... The company I came up with here is Frost Auto Restoration. They are UK stockists for POR-15... I am just about to order some and will let you know once I've had a chance to use it.

Hello, I looked at the link for the POR product.
It seems to be limited to metal surfaces NOT painted.

If I'm wrong please educate me on what would work over a hi temp engine paint.

Thanks

[Alley Kat]

Thanks guys. Tried the hair dryer but chickened out for fear of the glue losing grip, so the wrinkles are staying for now. They're hardly visible so I'll just live with it.

POR company make a variety of paints Bryan, POR-15 is for bare steel, or they do a primer for it I believe, for smooth/non rusted or scuffed steel. They also do hi-temp paints, like POR-20 which I've used on my engine and used on car engines before. Worked well on some V8 headers, no discolouration at all. There was a paint already on there, I put POR-20 over that no probs.

[Alley Kat]

Finally got the front brakes about bled. It took forever, loads of air, loads of fluid put through. The new hoses were excellent at trapping lots of air up their insides, so a lot of tapping and shaking was needed. Had to keep pumping the lever, bleed some more, and on and on...

Installed the Dyna S.

Repainted the silencer than got cooked previously, and today cleaned & re-painted the headers (looks shinier than real life because of the sun):

Because this paint (POR20) is heat cured, I let it flash (solvent evaporate), then gently went over it with a blowtorch to cook it a little and make it more stable. Stops it rubbing off while installing. That was fun - occasional big ol' yellow flashes of solvent igniting.

Installed the exhaust. Fired up. Except it was running only on 1 & 3 now... Checked fuel, present in all bowls. Sparks on all 4. Plugs 2&4 wet. Rechecked timing.
Then I swapped in 2 old (8-9 yrs) plugs, and it fired ...! Strange because there's 4 brand new plugs in there, and it was running on all 4 previously. It's still not right, a bit rough and gave a backfire so first step is 4 more new plugs, then maybe pull the carbs and recheck float levels. So no ride today.

Lastly, just a quick shot of the rear end with blue LEDs to light the plate:

[Brant]

Thats coming along nicely.