40 Build

[pierce]

Rubber seal. Goes around the piston.

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Then flip the piston over and place the spring on the fitting.

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Then flip over again and place the oil seal in.

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Then place the rubber cap on the bleeder.

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Gently push the cylinder in. I found that it popped right in with a bit of brake fluid to lubricate it, and a bit of force (by hand).

With the pushrod things in it looks like this:

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Now, take the pushrod thing out as it will need to be cut down to the proper length as shown by Old Fogey in the Wingovations link above.

Now the clutch basket.

[pierce]

1200 Clutch. Pretty straightforward. The only real difference between the 1000 and the 1200 is the spring design. Unlike the 1000 the 1200 has a large spring on the back. This spring is the key to making the bike feel like a hydraulic clutch. If the 1000 clutch was left in, then the amount of pressure needed would be roughly the same as without.

The spring is held in place by another infamous snap ring. (I have often contemplated counting the number of snap rings on the GL - I swear, the GL is held together via snap rings!).

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The book says to use a vice. However, I found it much easier to use two clamps. That way I could work it on the bench. Worked like a charm.

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Protect yourself! Both the snap ring, and big spring are under pressure. It is easy to hurt yourself, or anyone around you so do this with care and protection.

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Then remove the plates and stuff. Keep track of the snap ring, and the snap ring housing, and the big spring (kind of hard not to miss).

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Don't lose this stuff.

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Now soak the plates in oil, and then reverse the process. Use the clamp to secure the spring, and then place the snap ring housing and snap ring on.

Now I will install it. I will do this and the oil chain together as I have the clutch basket and all (and the 1200 oil gear) that goes with it on the bench.

[Hal]

Wonderful stuff.

This will help save a good few motors I reckon.....including my "parts bike" '77 unit, which has (at least) the right cam corroded in position, so not turning over.

[joedrum]

wow cant get any better at presenting something ...a manual could be put together from this thead that beats all out there easy ...great stuff pierce

[HOTT]

Nothing to contribute here. Just want to say following along.
Great photos, comprehensive, Great detail.
I will be using this for future reference.

Thanks.
HOTT

[pierce]

A bit of a teaser, but I have been working on the bike design end while getting the engine built. Just got done with the last of the painting and have assembled the bike (for the most part) sans the engine. I think I will hold off showing the bike until I drop the engine in.

However .....

Paint job came out pretty well. I never send anything out, do every last bit of work myself so it's not perfect, but it's good enough for me.

DSCF1271.jpg

And oh yeah, I noticed that I suddenly have a sig picture. Whoever added it, thanks! I like it. It was a pretty cool surprise.

[Roady]

You're welcome, I've really been enjoying your build. You got some mad skillz, man.

[Easter]

Nice to see another orange GL, have really enjoyed reading this thread. Hope this makes it into the Shop Talk section for future use.

[robin1731]

Nice to see another orange GL, have really enjoyed reading this thread. Hope this makes it into the Shop Talk section for future use.

Orange? I wasn't going to say anything about the color. Way too hard to tell in pics some times. Looks like it will look good though. No matter what the color.

[pierce]

Yep, went with orange.

[hacksaw1945]

Big THANK YOU for your wonderful step by step pictures and detail of the engine rebuild, What your doing here is better that any repair manual Hays, Clymer, or factory, I wold like to see this thread or a modified edition of just the engine rebuild thread when finished and posted in the Shop Talk part of this site. Keep up the good work
Hack

[Fred Camper]

Based on the picture looks like you are a quart down on fuel, better address that too. Looking forward to pics with the engine installed.

[KYpondman]

I don't plan on ever doing something like this, but it's a fascinating journey!
Thanks,
Claude

[pierce]

While the clutch plates were soaking I got the flywheel on.

I used an 1100 as they redesigned the flywheel, it has a smooth magnet as opposed to the series of magnets on the 1000. The 1200 is also smooth, however it will not fit. I cleaned the flywheel, and replaced the springs, rollers etc. Pretty straightforward.

Here we are, back end without flywheel.

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Now slip the starter mechanism and chain on the shaft of the alternator. I found it easier to have the chain attached.

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Before placing the starter chain on, I suggest to remove the bottom left bolt of the alternator which has the keeper.

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This is why. The starter chain and mechanism are gently kept in place by the keeper, so once the flywheel is on, position the keeper correctly and tighten down.

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Now take the rotor and push back the rollers and place some firm plastic straws to keep them in place. Their are holes that allow you to do this.

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[pierce]

After you have the straws in place slide the fitted washer over the shaft. Do not forget the washer!

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Now just slide the flywheel over the shaft.

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Make sure that the straws bend 'out' so you can pull them out. I found that pulling the flywheel out a bit and using a small flathead screwdriver to help pull out the straws worked well.

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Here is what the 1100 flywheel looks like.

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