Painting for dumbies....

#1

I am having to edit this complete thread 8/3/17 as photobucket has messed with downloading pictures. so please forgive if any are out of order
questions of come up from time to time about painting and I know the thought of doing it causes some folks to run and hide

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so I thought I would do a basic course and probably make all the mistakes along the way

first of all: GET A RESPIRATOR; an adequate compressor (5hp); the more expensive the gun... the better, oh and btw get a respirator

#2

remember.... preperation is 99% of a good job (laying the paint is the second 99%) anything you can see in the primer WILL show in the final coat.... so get it right from the beginning.... also, you might find some interesting things in the "orignal" honda paint....

here is a radiator fin... it was 78-9 burgendy on the outside black on the inside, and look what was under it all, but an early "blue" color

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here is some "seams" that show in the metal tank work outlined in red

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and again (these really showed through) at the far end you can see the nipple connection.... I smoothed around it with bondo so it would not look like a welded on piece

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also you can see where I used bond (circled in green) to smooth things out

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here you can see some rust pitting (showed through the primer) which I then corrected with some more plastic filler -- you must removeALL THE RUST.... if you paint over it... it will rust through... this was sand blasted to get it off

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not all these showed up.... but several did.... fix them now or look at them forever

#3

I might add... it all depends on where defects are... while the wrinkles along the bottom do show somewhat, they are a place not really visible, while the wrinkles along the top certainly are... also, I wanted the place for the gas cap to be smooth. Some of these will work out with a sandable prime... the primer allowing you to feather the edges.

For the main primer I have elected to go with a two-part epoxy primer for the durability. Sunday afternoon was a nice warm day (80f) so I set up the garage and painted.... I think I started this all with the comment I would have some great mistakes to show... and now I do.... pictures to follow

#4

PJMehaffey · #5

keep it coming...

Patrick

#6

okay.... now to the primer coat... you can see my method of "hanging the parts" is high tech.... the green hose was used to wet down the floor and theredy reduce dust... I also have a back garage door which allowed for flow-through ventilation

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#7

now what can possibly go wrong.... let me count the ways...

remember that honda piece with at least two colors... I had even put an earlier laquer based sandable primer with no problem... but instead the epoxy primer "lifted" an earlier coat.... so I either sand it again below that coat, or (since it is a small piece) use a paint stripper

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AND I thought it was such a nice day to paint... forgetting that the humidty was high as well! two things dramatically affect a paints ability to "flash" and set... too low a temp OR too high a humidity... it didn't help it has been along time since I have used an epoxy primer and it lays differently than a laquer based primer... and maybe, just maybe it is time to replace my 20+ year old gun. Aren't the sags in this paint wonderful!

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so it is back to sanding for me

PJMehaffey · #8

ouch sorry to hear that...

I am learning from your experiences (mistakes

) though.

Patrick

ElPiloto · #9

When you squirt the floors to get them wet to hold the dust down, don't leave standing puddles of water. Squirt the floor then use a mop to remove the water that hasn't soaked in.

Many epoxy primers allow you to thin the primer and use it as a sealer. If not, go to your auto paint store and get some sealer. It usually comes ready to spray and then you paint right after it flashes.

Don't be discouraged. Now you know why many painters have a drinking problem.

#10

the biggest frustrations is that it is usually a couple of years between painting projects... and I forget enough to then make the same mistakes ove and over

commitments the next couple of weekends, so.....

to be continued......

Cookie · #11

How about flying out Roger...I've got a job 1/4 done I could use your help on.
Actually this is a bike that will be donated to a museum and I may be able to rough out the bodywork and get a paint job donated.
I swear I have made every possible error with body work and paint and I still find ways to make new ones each time. Did I remind you that you should not use paint stripper wearing flip flops and shorts?

ElPiloto · #12

Did you get acetone in your eyes? That's one you won't forget.

Cookie · #13

No but I did put thinner in a Styrofoam cup. That works good doesn't it?

#14

used stripper on that metal peice, but there is always some residual goooo, so will sand blast it as well..... stripper has methylene cholride--the can warns CANNOT BE MADE NON-POISONNESS gloves and eye protection for sure!
I thought I might get back to this this week... except my riding mower will not start.... urrrgggghhh have spark... fuel at the carb... and no-go

#15

sometimes you wish the fleabay parts you buy could tell their real story.... recall the radiator fin that had the paint lift... under the burgendy was an early blue... stripper was applied and now almost all the paint is off... underneath I found a repair. So did some PO pick up a blue fin and have it matched to a later wing?

many custom painters will sand blast or strip all parts for this very reason... you never know what is underneath and how it will react when you paint it. the bluish white area to the left was a plastic filler repair under it all.

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Painting for dumbies....

Painting for dumbies....