Got a new switch on e-bay cause mine went bad so decided to tear old one apart. Will never buy another. It's an easy fix! First take old one off bike. Then get some fine emery paper or sand paper. There is a small rubber boot at the top peal it back you will see two tabs. Now stand on end and push down on solid surface. This should push it apart.
Now pull it all the way out. You will see two brass or copper prongs and a shaft
Take sand paper or emery cloth an shine up the copper fingers and the ring on shaft you can use some contact cleaner if you have it. Now the one that I had the spring was shot so I took a spring from an ordinary pen and it fit right over shaft. In pic you will see two different units I did this for comparison.
Now just put switch back together and test with a meter or test light and should be good to go.
Last edited by peteybug on Thu Aug 21, 2008 12:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
love new ideas for old wing's. AS I have three and am always working on them
Thanks Cookie!! Like I said in one of my other posting's ( I hate things that can't be fixed) If I can use a hammer and screwdriver on it I might be able to fix it.
love new ideas for old wing's. AS I have three and am always working on them
I was surprised when mine came back by spraying in contact cleaner but now that I see it apart there is no reson that won't fix a not too corroded one.
Enjoy life,
Cookie
A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad.
Owner of 4.4 76s and one lone 75 Wings (does a spare engine make .2?)
Nicely done... my rear switch is working but sticking "on" until I jiggle it so I was planning on cleaning it. Now I know what to expect. Good idea with the pen spring!
1976 GL1000 - in progress - 70,000 miles - Originally Sulfur Yellow
My rear brake peddal would'nt even move when I bought my 79, A lot of wd40 and a little propane torch to heat it with and some elbow grease moving it a little at a time and now the rear brakes work good as almost new Also sprayed the switch with WD-40 and moved it back and forth and it works now too.
If you pedal is sticking in the slightest I would remove it and clean that pivot point properly and give it a coat of grease. It is a very easy job and does not take long at all. Disconnect the M/C, the Switch, and raise the pedal enought to relieve the spring pressure. Then remove the large cotter pin and slide the pedal off the shaft. I suspect you will find a lot of rust inside the pedal and on the shaft. Clean both of those up with some sand paper and grease it up then put it back together.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
"Yea I do dance awkwardly, and I am having more fun than you" Taylor Swift
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1984 GL1200 Standard
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
It doesnt stick at all anymore and operates really smooth but I am going to do a frame up restoration and slight customizing this winter. I will take step by step pics of the progress and keep them posted. This will be my first bike project and am looking forward to the challange I'm sure your and other NGW members advice and knowledge will be very helpful as it has been.
Thanks Rick
Like I said in one of my other posting's ( I hate things that can't be fixed) If I can use a hammer and screwdriver on it I might be able to fix it.
Also sprayed the switch with WD-40 and moved it back and forth and it works now too.
I'm sure your and other NGW members advice and knowledge will be very helpful as it has been.
