Rear brakes been a pain, and a question on fork seals.

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Goose
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Rear brakes been a pain, and a question on fork seals.

#1

Post by Goose »

Well, you know how it is, a mechanic's own stuff is the last to get attention. Coming home from the shop today and for the last several days, the rear brake's been dragging worse and worse. It has been doing it, but just started getting worse. Well, I'd figured it was in the fluid, the little check in the master cylinder not releasing/plugged and not letting fluid out of the line when released. But, that proved not to be the case. I finally got enough of it and pulled the caliper this afternoon. Popped out the pistons and inspected. Didn't need to hone it, didn't wanna mess up the seals and have to order new ones. But, it weren't bad and I put the buffer wheel on the outter surface of the pistons to buff 'em up a tad. They seem to work a lot freer now. However, the main problem is the hollow pin the caliper slides on. It is a floating caliper with two pistons on one side. The pin was all crusted up and I had to press it out with my hydraulic press, cleaned it up, lubed it with axle grease and pushed it back in. Got everything back together now.

Little nit picky problems like this are a pain. I tend to put 'em off until I cannot live with 'em anymore. :lol: I need to put fork seals in the thing, living with it for a while, but that's an even bigger pain. Besides, danged seals are fifty bucks a set! Well, they're that from Honda and Bike Bandit, but maybe I can find some aftermarkets somewhere. Anyone got a link to cheaper? I used to get "Leak Proof" aftermarket seals from Parts Unlimited, but don't get the Parts Unlimited stuff anymore.
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alan hawke
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seals

#2

Post by alan hawke »

G'day goose here's a link to fork seals on ebay hope this helps.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Honda-GL500-GL65 ... dZViewItem
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Oldewing
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#3

Post by Oldewing »

Did the "leak pruff" seal thing, lasted all of 2500 miles. Redid the job with honda seals, ya 42.00 at the honda stealer :shock:

Then he tryed to sell me 10 weight wonder oil for them for 25.00 a pint :shock: :shock:

Book sayes ATF, and thats what I put in.


25,000 miles down the road and no problems,,,, :-D :-D
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Goose
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#4

Post by Goose »

GL1100hio wrote:Did the "leak pruff" seal thing, lasted all of 2500 miles. Redid the job with honda seals, ya 42.00 at the honda stealer :shock:

Then he tryed to sell me 10 weight wonder oil for them for 25.00 a pint :shock: :shock:

Book sayes ATF, and thats what I put in.


25,000 miles down the road and no problems,,,, :-D :-D
ATF is fine for an old touring bike. The "wonder oil" you speak of, ie. PJ1 fork oil, is sold in specific weights and controls damping of the forks more precisely. ATF is very liquid and offers little damping.

Anyway, on my OldWing, yeah, I'll use ATF. On sport bikes/race bikes I used a specific weight of fork oil.

Bookmarked that ebay auction. THANKS! I'll probably buy the things and put off actually installing them for six months. :-? Never do today what you can put off til tomorrow, eh? I didn't even know if they sold "Leak Proof" anymore, haven't seen 'em advertise.
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quakeholio
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#5

Post by quakeholio »

I've seen where different DOHC guys have put in a specific vescosity oil, and have tuned them to a feel that they like. The AFT has a vescosity of something along the lines of 7.5. It's a lot cheaper way to firm up the front end of the bike then new springs.
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#6

Post by Goose »

Springs support the bike, the fork oil only dampens the bumps. It's the springs that take the bumps. Fork oil is not a substitute for springs. On a sport bike, you first set "sag". You have to get the right spring rate for the bike to work over bumps. Then, you have to get the correct damping. On my road racers and flat trackers, the suspension is done by Lindeman Engineering of California. Suspension is THE most important thing on the bike for going fast. It cost me $700 to do both ends of my KX motard, revalving and springing it for road racing, a bike that was originally set up for MX. The XR100s required a Works shock with proper spring rate and damping. XR shocks are toys because the XR is intended as a toy. The stock shock is little more than a spring guide. I've road raced a motard XR set up with stock shock and proper spring. Pogo stick is what comes to mind. :roll:

So, springs/fork oil do different jobs. You cannot compensate for improper spring rate by stiffening fork oil, doesn't work that way. There's lots of stuff on the web explaining suspension. You can start at the race tech site, www.racetech.com I think. Suspension tuning is a cottage industry around the motorcycle racing world, it's that important.

On a touring bike, you're not that concerned with the way the bike handles. Heck, a Wing is the wobbliest thing I've ever put a butt on anyway. I mean, it handles like a Mack Truck on two wheels. It's meant for the interstate, not the twisty mountain road or the road race track. Ever experienced "Wing Wobble"? That's a combination of soft rear suspension and drive shaft torque reaction. It can wake you up, let's put it that way! :shock: You come off a corner and try to get in the power early to get drive off the corner as you would on a sport bike, but the back in just starts pogoing and it won't go away until you straighten the bike up. It's down right scary. So, I ride my GL1100 rather gingerly, learned early on it was no GSXR, ROFLMAO

One of the things that's hard on fork seals is air suspension. Get the air pressure too high and you can blow out the seals. Too, fork oil level is critical in this regard. If there's not enough air space above the oil level, you'll blow out the seals rather quickly first big bump you hit. Stiffer springs in the forks will help alleviate both of these problems. Rather than BUY new springs, you can preload them more, but that's a bandaid, not a cure.
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