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https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=78995#p828493
https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=78995#p828493
STRIPPED THREAD RENEWAL
Moderators: Whiskerfish, Forum Moderators
- Old Fogey
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STRIPPED THREAD RENEWAL
Although this subject comes up regularly I don't remember seeing anything about what it is or how it's done, so I though that a pictorial tutorial would be useful.
Thread renewal is a way of replacing a stripped thread with a coil of (usually) stainless steel carefully manufactured to mimic the dimensions of the original thread once installed.
It is a relatively simple procedure once you know how ( as are most things) but could be daunting to someone with little knowledge and some stripped threads!
There are various kits on the market, Helicoil being the best known (and usually the most expensive). Your local tool store should be able to help or there is always the ubiquitous eBay.
Usually each kit is for a dedicated size of thread.
The threads being renewed here are the 6mm x1mm for the rocker box screws.
OK, HERE WE GO!
The tools you will need. Thread renewal kit, drill, hammer, tap wrench, small screwdriver, thread lock solution, grease.
Make sure to cover everything with cloths or paper towels pushed into all the crevices to stop the swarf getting into places it shouldn't.
It still will, so be anal when cleaning up after you have finished the job!
Check out how deep the drill has to go with the small screwdriver.
Transfer that dimension to the drill. I used a bit of masking tape ; if you have a drill collar so much the better.
This is the bit that usually goes wrong so check, check, check again. Borrow a friend's eyes so that you check from the top and they check from the side.
You need to be 90 degrees both ways!
Hold the drill very firmly and use a slow speed because it will likely try to grab!
A dab of grease on the flutes will help lubricate it and also trap some of the swarf.
A good tip. If I'm drilling down an existing hole in a soft metal such as aluminium I dull the cutting edges of the drill with a sharpening stone to reduce the chance of it grabbing (note! Dull not blunt!)
A little grease on the end of the tap will help lubricate it and trap some of the swarf.
You'll need you friend again when you go to tap out the hole. Very easy to run off with a tap so make doubly sure it's at 90 degrees.
Loads of swarf trapped but there will still be more down there. Use the small screwdriver with some grease to remove the rest.
The new coil is slipped over the installation tool with the coil tang towards the bottom of the tool.
In this instance we want the top of the coil to be slightly below the surface so the installation tool collar is set as above.
Put a little thread lock solution in the outside of the coil before inserting it.
Screw the coil into the hole slowly down to the stop collar.
REMEMBER. YOU CAN SCREW IT IN FURTHER IF NEED BE; YOU CANNOT SCREW IT BACK OUT IF IT'S TOO DEEP!
Once the coil is in place use the thin metal rod to knock the installation tang off the coil.
Finally, check that the intended bolt fits the new thread.
Only another seven to do! To give you an idea (admittedly I've done this kind of thing before) all eight were done in about half an hour.
Time for clean-up and the job is done!
Thread renewal is a way of replacing a stripped thread with a coil of (usually) stainless steel carefully manufactured to mimic the dimensions of the original thread once installed.
It is a relatively simple procedure once you know how ( as are most things) but could be daunting to someone with little knowledge and some stripped threads!
There are various kits on the market, Helicoil being the best known (and usually the most expensive). Your local tool store should be able to help or there is always the ubiquitous eBay.
Usually each kit is for a dedicated size of thread.
The threads being renewed here are the 6mm x1mm for the rocker box screws.
OK, HERE WE GO!
The tools you will need. Thread renewal kit, drill, hammer, tap wrench, small screwdriver, thread lock solution, grease.
Make sure to cover everything with cloths or paper towels pushed into all the crevices to stop the swarf getting into places it shouldn't.
It still will, so be anal when cleaning up after you have finished the job!
Check out how deep the drill has to go with the small screwdriver.
Transfer that dimension to the drill. I used a bit of masking tape ; if you have a drill collar so much the better.
This is the bit that usually goes wrong so check, check, check again. Borrow a friend's eyes so that you check from the top and they check from the side.
You need to be 90 degrees both ways!
Hold the drill very firmly and use a slow speed because it will likely try to grab!
A dab of grease on the flutes will help lubricate it and also trap some of the swarf.
A good tip. If I'm drilling down an existing hole in a soft metal such as aluminium I dull the cutting edges of the drill with a sharpening stone to reduce the chance of it grabbing (note! Dull not blunt!)
A little grease on the end of the tap will help lubricate it and trap some of the swarf.
You'll need you friend again when you go to tap out the hole. Very easy to run off with a tap so make doubly sure it's at 90 degrees.
Loads of swarf trapped but there will still be more down there. Use the small screwdriver with some grease to remove the rest.
The new coil is slipped over the installation tool with the coil tang towards the bottom of the tool.
In this instance we want the top of the coil to be slightly below the surface so the installation tool collar is set as above.
Put a little thread lock solution in the outside of the coil before inserting it.
Screw the coil into the hole slowly down to the stop collar.
REMEMBER. YOU CAN SCREW IT IN FURTHER IF NEED BE; YOU CANNOT SCREW IT BACK OUT IF IT'S TOO DEEP!
Once the coil is in place use the thin metal rod to knock the installation tang off the coil.
Finally, check that the intended bolt fits the new thread.
Only another seven to do! To give you an idea (admittedly I've done this kind of thing before) all eight were done in about half an hour.
Time for clean-up and the job is done!
Last edited by Old Fogey on Wed Jun 24, 2009 10:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
- Roady
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Excellent tutorial!
I found the end of the internet
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---- Bradshaw Bikes custom polishing for your wing. Visit us on facebook!
1978 Learning Experience
1980 County Road Hauler "Brain Damage"
1978 Cafe Custom Gl1000 "Vyper"
1977 Bulldog Inspired "Vaincre"
1981 Street Fighter GL1100 "No Quarter"
1983 Supercharged Street Drag "Anubis" (in worx)
1983 gl1100 mint restoration "Kristen"
1985 Aspencade..pondering.
- sodbuster
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Another way to keep the drill bit straight is to use a drill bushing. I made a small fixture to drill two holes into the frame when I mounted my saddle bag brackets. The hole for the bushing was done on a drill press and bushing loctited into place. Drill to bushing I.D. is very close fit and keeps the drill bit straight ....
'06 H-D Road King
'99 Valkyrie Standard - TOTALED :(
'83 GL1100 Standard - SOLD
'82 CB900F - Black & Red - SOLD
'99 Valkyrie Standard - TOTALED :(
'83 GL1100 Standard - SOLD
'82 CB900F - Black & Red - SOLD
- Whiskerfish
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Excellent presentation John. It will be a great addition to ShopTalk.
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"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
"Yea I do dance awkwardly, and I am having more fun than you" Taylor Swift
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Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
"Yea I do dance awkwardly, and I am having more fun than you" Taylor Swift
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1984 GL1200 Standard
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
- sodbuster
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Oops .... Sorry John, but I should have acknowledged the fact on how well your tutorial was before I added any comments ..
Great execution and good use of pictures. An inspiration to others on how to make an excellent "How To" post.
Great execution and good use of pictures. An inspiration to others on how to make an excellent "How To" post.
'06 H-D Road King
'99 Valkyrie Standard - TOTALED :(
'83 GL1100 Standard - SOLD
'82 CB900F - Black & Red - SOLD
'99 Valkyrie Standard - TOTALED :(
'83 GL1100 Standard - SOLD
'82 CB900F - Black & Red - SOLD
-
- True Blue Steel Biker
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Well done.
I have 2 suggestions. After cleaning the shavings out of the hole with grease on a probe, I always rinse the grease out with lacquer thinner or acetone before putting the Helicoil in with LocTite.
Also, I have found that heavy duty aluminum foil and masking tape are easier to work with to cover exposed engine parts.
I have 2 suggestions. After cleaning the shavings out of the hole with grease on a probe, I always rinse the grease out with lacquer thinner or acetone before putting the Helicoil in with LocTite.
Also, I have found that heavy duty aluminum foil and masking tape are easier to work with to cover exposed engine parts.
"Some Cats Got it, Some Cats Ain't"
- Old Fogey
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Good suggestions EP!ElPiloto wrote:Well done.
I have 2 suggestions. After cleaning the shavings out of the hole with grease on a probe, I always rinse the grease out with lacquer thinner or acetone before putting the Helicoil in with LocTite.
Also, I have found that heavy duty aluminum foil and masking tape are easier to work with to cover exposed engine parts.
Yeah, I should really have degreased the holes as you say. Even a blast with aerosol carb cleaner will usually do the trick.
And using foil also eliminates the risk of the cloth getting caught up in the drill.
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
- Bufobufo
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- Location: Teddington England
UK supplier for thread repair - KWIKFAST
I had most of my carb float bowl screws pulled, the last mech must have been heavy handed. I bought an M4 kit the same as shown in Old Fogeys excellent write up from Kwikfast, called ArmaCoil. Go for the Eco kit if you dont want a fancy box.
Make sure you order more inserts as you will need them and their postage charges hurt!
www.qwikfast.co.uk/catalogue/
And look after than drill, mine has escaped to live with all the others and will take ages to find again.
Make sure you order more inserts as you will need them and their postage charges hurt!
www.qwikfast.co.uk/catalogue/
And look after than drill, mine has escaped to live with all the others and will take ages to find again.
JohnR - 76 GL 1000 Yellow Bird - in Cold Old England.
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Re: STRIPPED THREAD RENEWAL
Excellent write up. Hope your around! I do realize this isn't a current post but I thought it is worth the comments. Actually splains well eenuff to make me feel I know how! Good job.
- Old Fogey
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Re: STRIPPED THREAD RENEWAL
Thank you! Yeah, still very much a round! But I'm trying to loose the weight!Bobalou wrote:Excellent write up. Hope your around! I do realize this isn't a current post but I thought it is worth the comments. Actually splains well eenuff to make me feel I know how! Good job.
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
- ericheath
- Honored Life Member
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- Joined: Wed Jul 29, 2009 11:20 am
- Location: Winnipeg, Manituba
Re: STRIPPED THREAD RENEWAL
Great tutorial, and now to strip this thread, John, what exhaust header do you have on the Wing in the tutorial? I have not seen that on a Wing.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
- Old Fogey
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- Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:31 pm
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Re: STRIPPED THREAD RENEWAL
Motad stainless system. You can see it better here.ericheath wrote:Great tutorial, and now to strip this thread, John, what exhaust header do you have on the Wing in the tutorial? I have not seen that on a Wing.
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
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