Clutch Centre Nut Removal

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Old Fogey
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Clutch Centre Nut Removal

Post #1 by Old Fogey » Thu Aug 13, 2009 3:13 pm

I've seen this subject come up on many occasions, so some points to doing the clutch

Ok,

1) remove the clutch lever cover

2) Slacken the cable adjusters right off and remove the cable from the lever

3) Remove the clutch cover

4) Slowly and evenly using a diagonal technique undo the six bolts that hold the clutch pressure release plate. If you are not careful with this the pressure release plate can crack!

5) Using some large repair type washers under them, put the bolts back on three of the springs and tighten them down. (They don't have to be tightened right up, finger tight to the spring carrier will do). As you will note, I used some flanged nuts which were perfect for the job.

6) bend the locking tab of the centre nut lock washer back.

7) If the engine is still in the frame, put the bike in 1st gear and have someone stand on the rear brake, or tie the lever down somehow.
If it's out of the frame, use a spanner on the crankshaft timing pulley bolt.

Some folk advocate using the alternator rotor bolt, but IMHO there is too much danger of slacking that bolt off. If the rotor gets loose it will destroy the splines on it's shaft in very short order and probably the stator as well!

8) Undo the centre nut, it's a normal right hand thread. Please, please use the correct tool for this. They are not dear, about the same price as the screwdriver you were going to ruin by hammering the nut off! :)




Image





9) If the engine is in the frame, remove the bolts and springs and then the plates.

If the engine is on the bench the whole plate pack can be lifted out as a unit if you leave the springs and nuts in place.

10) when rebuilding, just reverse the procedure. Use a new locking washer, don't forget the Belville washer which goes in with the convex surface towards the nut and the spirals on the friction plates go anti-clockwise as you look at the clutch.

11) Lastly, the housekeeping. Make sure you clean out any old clutch material from the bottom of the cases around the scavenge pump.
Last edited by Old Fogey on Mon Jun 21, 2010 8:37 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #2 by Whiskerfish » Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:04 pm

Excellent write up as usual OF ;) ;)

One note of caution, the cover plate has a warning in the Honda shop manual about the proper procedure for tightening and torquing. Use extreme caution as these do break if not tightened down evenly and torqued up evenly. Several of our members have broken these and it is easy to do while tightening under that spring load.
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Post #3 by Recycled Roadkill » Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:34 pm

I do wish I'd seen that tip with the springs and washers before we did Kwixdraws clutch last Friday. That would have likely saved a bunch of time.
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Post #4 by Old Fogey » Fri Aug 14, 2009 8:31 am

Whiskerfish wrote:Excellent write up as usual OF ;) ;)

One note of caution, the cover plate has a warning in the Honda shop manual about the proper procedure for tightening and torquing. Use extreme caution as these do break if not tightened down evenly and torqued up evenly. Several of our members have broken these and it is easy to do while tightening under that spring load.


See step 4.
I've called it the pressure plate but, no matter what you call it, be aware that it's fragile.
--------------------------------------------------------

'The Swan' complete rebuild album - See the result here!

ENGINE REBUILD TIPS - Stuff you won't find in the manuals!


"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous! :-D

click the banners below:
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( Seriously, you haven't read all 115 pages of the WinGovations website ?? :shock: )

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Post #5 by Whiskerfish » Fri Aug 14, 2009 8:55 am

:-D :-D :-D :-D
The Wounds of Honor are self inflicted (Last Knights)
1978/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!

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Post #6 by RAT » Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:05 am

Easy enough on the bench ... let's see how you do it with the engine in the frame :twisted:

Gord :roll:
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Post #7 by Old Fogey » Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:15 am

RAT wrote:Easy enough on the bench ... let's see how you do it with the engine in the frame :twisted:

Gord :roll:


Granted, a lot harder to get at. But if you can get to the spring bolts, then you can do it this way (you need small double jointed fingers, six on each hand preferably :lol: :lol: )

With the hydro slave cylinder on mine I have to drop the engine anyway to get that off first. :(
--------------------------------------------------------

'The Swan' complete rebuild album - See the result here!

ENGINE REBUILD TIPS - Stuff you won't find in the manuals!


"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous! :-D

click the banners below:
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( Seriously, you haven't read all 115 pages of the WinGovations website ?? :shock: )

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Post #8 by RAT » Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:31 am

Just kidding you Fogey.

Gord (also old) Jones :-D :P :-D
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'84 GL 1200 Standard 'R2B2' (Rat To Be Two)
Team 898, Team LTD 993 and team '76 R2B3
My Original 'RAT' was an '82 CB900/1100F

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Post #9 by Roady » Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:27 am

Moved to How-To forum and nominated to ShopTalk.

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Re:

Post #10 by Old Fogey » Mon Feb 08, 2010 8:34 am

Old Fogey wrote:
Whiskerfish wrote:Excellent write up as usual OF ;) ;)

One note of caution, the cover plate has a warning in the Honda shop manual about the proper procedure for tightening and torquing. Use extreme caution as these do break if not tightened down evenly and torqued up evenly. Several of our members have broken these and it is easy to do while tightening under that spring load.


See step 4.
I've called it the pressure release plate but, no matter what you call it, be aware that it's fragile.
--------------------------------------------------------

'The Swan' complete rebuild album - See the result here!

ENGINE REBUILD TIPS - Stuff you won't find in the manuals!


"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous! :-D

click the banners below:
Image Image Image

( Seriously, you haven't read all 115 pages of the WinGovations website ?? :shock: )

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Re: Clutch Centre Nut Removal

Post #11 by skwid12 » Sat Feb 13, 2010 8:35 pm

is the nut left to loosen?
mine is really on there, just want to know if it is a regular thread or left handed? thanks , dave
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Re: Clutch Centre Nut Removal

Post #12 by Old Fogey » Sun Feb 14, 2010 1:40 am

It's a normal right hand thread nut.
--------------------------------------------------------

'The Swan' complete rebuild album - See the result here!

ENGINE REBUILD TIPS - Stuff you won't find in the manuals!


"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous! :-D

click the banners below:
Image Image Image

( Seriously, you haven't read all 115 pages of the WinGovations website ?? :shock: )

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Re: Clutch Centre Nut Removal

Post #13 by millerdog » Fri Aug 06, 2010 12:03 am

Where do you get that special socket? I looked at the link that was in Octanes writeup, but I couldn't find it anywhere on that site.
1976 sorta stock GL 1000. 1986 VS700 Intruder 1997 VZ800 Suzuki Marauder. Ride em like you stole em!

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Re: Clutch Centre Nut Removal

Post #14 by Old Fogey » Fri Aug 06, 2010 1:27 am

--------------------------------------------------------

'The Swan' complete rebuild album - See the result here!

ENGINE REBUILD TIPS - Stuff you won't find in the manuals!


"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..."
If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous! :-D

click the banners below:
Image Image Image

( Seriously, you haven't read all 115 pages of the WinGovations website ?? :shock: )

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Re: Clutch Centre Nut Removal

Post #15 by millerdog » Fri Aug 06, 2010 2:07 pm

Thanks Fogey! I noticed they didn't have the GL listed ? I'm gonna order it, cause I'm getting ready to do the clutch. Just waiting on parts.
1976 sorta stock GL 1000. 1986 VS700 Intruder 1997 VZ800 Suzuki Marauder. Ride em like you stole em!


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