Clutch Cable replacement

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gungadin
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Clutch Cable replacement

Post #1 by gungadin » Wed Apr 12, 2006 1:38 pm

This '75 I bought has a super stiff clutch lever. The kind you have to put your back into.
The cable stem that goes into the clutch housing is loose. It wiggles around.
The cable is somewhat battleworn.
I have a new cable for it.
I'm going to try to install it. I think. I have guts and an adventurous nature. Maybe one of you usual suspects out there thinks I might need more than that. I'm open for discussion.
I don't want to take the engine out.... Yet.
My Haynes manual is at least hiding this procedure from me if it has it at all.
So maybe I need more than just the new cable? Maybe I need to visit the parts counter and/or the tool store.
Maybe I need to go to the grocery store or even the pharmacy
Let 'er rip people. I'll just be here polishing aluminum.
'75GL "LIL WING"
If you aren't making mistakes you aren't doing anything.

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Post #2 by RebelRouser » Wed Apr 12, 2006 3:45 pm

Hope This Helps, Its For The 75-79 GL1000....
Ok This Is The Adjustment Prosidure, But It Can Give You The Tips To Changing Out The Cable
Image
Step One:RED Loosen Up The Upper Adjuster And Nut All The Way
Step Three:BLUE Remove The Cable From The Clutch Lever, You Might Have To Remove The Lever From The Handle Bars To Make This Easyer On A Stiff Cable
Image
Step Four:RED Loosen The Lower Adjuster All The Way
Image
Step Five: Remove The Clutch Arm Cover On The Back Of The Motor
Step Six:BLUE Remove The Clutch Cable From The The Clutch Arm
Image
Snake The Old Cable Out Of The Bike And Install The New One In Reverse Steps And Make All Of Your Adjustments...

p.s. The Steps Are Out Of Order But They Go With The Picts
Hope This Helps, By The Way Comes From The Honda Shop Manual...
If You Didn't Build It, Customize It, And/Or Modify It, Then It Truly Isn't Yours. Rebel Rouser

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octane
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Post #3 by octane » Wed Apr 12, 2006 3:51 pm

How'dy Gungadin

...as RR says.

And also:

Image

I've found that the right routing can
makes all the difference in the world
when it comes to smooth clutch operation.

Hope this spares you
any major engine surgery

Octane
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Dougal
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Post #4 by Dougal » Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:34 pm

The GL1000 clutch is known to be a bit stiff unless everthing is set up just right and no parts are worn. One mod to overcome this is to fit teh outer clutch case, clutch cable, clutch cable mount and make a new adjustment screw and locknut to make it all work. It has the added bonus of making it easy to change the clutch cable should this eventually need doing, a real god move if you have ever tried to change the cable on a hot engine.. This results in a lot lighter clutch as well.

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WRT the cable routing

Post #5 by pissrpr » Thu Apr 13, 2006 1:11 am

I just have experience on the '81, but this may help. To get the routing correct when I changed mine, I tied a piece of small nylon rope to the engine side of the old cable prior to removal. When I pulled it out I just had to tie the end to the new one and pull it back through. It takes some work to get everything in without a bind, but it still beats trying to route that mother by hand.

good luck

cheers
clay
'81 GL1100 48k miles and ticking (no thats not the valves)

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gungadin
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Post #6 by gungadin » Thu Apr 13, 2006 9:13 am

I posted yesterday but it didn't stick or something.
The clutch cable was unbelievable gummed up. And routed incorrectly.
The new one is smooooooth a silk.
DONE DEAL!!!!
'75GL "LIL WING"
If you aren't making mistakes you aren't doing anything.

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Re: Clutch Cable replacement

Post #7 by Paul Narramore » Fri Jul 03, 2015 10:14 am

Ah but what IS the correct route? How do I know if a PO has re-routed it wrongly? I have a very heavy clutch and intend to replace the cable but I presume there are two different clutch cable lengths - one for the high cowhorn-type US handlebars and one for the lower European-type bars. I have changed my high bars for those with a 5" rise, halfway between US and European, and it does seem the old long cable has quite a tight curve to make after it leaves the lever and bends back to the frame. Any idea of the Honda part number for the shorter cable?
Present bikes -

BMW R100/7
1989 BMW R100GS-Paris Dakar
MZ ETZ250 Trials
1977 Honda GL1000 GoldWing

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Re: Clutch Cable replacement

Post #8 by RAT » Fri Jul 03, 2015 10:51 am

Motion pro will make one any length you want .....

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Re: Clutch Cable replacement

Post #9 by Whiskerfish » Fri Jul 03, 2015 3:40 pm

Paul Narramore wrote:Ah but what IS the correct route? How do I know if a PO has re-routed it wrongly? I have a very heavy clutch and intend to replace the cable but I presume there are two different clutch cable lengths - one for the high cowhorn-type US handlebars and one for the lower European-type bars. I have changed my high bars for those with a 5" rise, halfway between US and European, and it does seem the old long cable has quite a tight curve to make after it leaves the lever and bends back to the frame. Any idea of the Honda part number for the shorter cable?



The stock routing is from the handlebar to an opening just to the right of the Choke knob. From there across in front of the headstock then into the triangular opening of the frame rails. Down along the inside edge of the right hand frame rail. There is a hanger about mid way above the Carbs. Back to the indented area of the fuel tank running parallel with the wires for the brake switch. That is the hard area to feed through and some lube may help. Most of the time I remove the brake switch wires and replace them after I have routed the cable so they don't get tugged on excessively.

The Clutch on these is not light but it should be very smooth. Also if it is a real problem a 78/79 perch and lever provides a longer throw and does provide some relief.

Diagrams are here but they are not the best viewtopic.php?f=52&t=43612
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
and a whole garage full of possibilities!!

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!

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Re: Clutch Cable replacement

Post #10 by Paul Narramore » Sat Jul 04, 2015 3:43 pm

Thank you, and I can see already that my routing is different. Just one more question, what do you mean by 'perch and lever', the entire clutch lever or the lever at the end of the clutch?
Present bikes -

BMW R100/7
1989 BMW R100GS-Paris Dakar
MZ ETZ250 Trials
1977 Honda GL1000 GoldWing

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robin1731
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Re: Clutch Cable replacement

Post #11 by robin1731 » Sat Jul 04, 2015 4:28 pm

Paul Narramore wrote:Thank you, and I can see already that my routing is different. Just one more question, what do you mean by 'perch and lever', the entire clutch lever or the lever at the end of the clutch?



The lever is the lever, or handle if you will. The perch is what the lever bolts to.
1975 GL1000 parts bike (parts for sale)
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
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Paul Narramore
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Re: Clutch Cable replacement

Post #12 by Paul Narramore » Mon Jul 06, 2015 4:30 am

Ah, We Brits don't have a separate word for it - the entire clutch lever is called just that. Thanks.
Present bikes -

BMW R100/7
1989 BMW R100GS-Paris Dakar
MZ ETZ250 Trials
1977 Honda GL1000 GoldWing

Paul Narramore
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Re: Clutch Cable replacement

Post #13 by Paul Narramore » Wed Jul 29, 2015 11:20 am

Right, As I have the carbs out, and a bit of space under the 'shelter' I thought I'd have a go replacing the clutch cable. Now whilst the routing was not quite as shown in the above diagrams, the only difference was that it failed to exit close to the choke known sweeping forwards instead. Now I have fitted 5" rise handlebars, not quite as low as the European 'flat' handlebars but not so awful as the US 'high' handlebars. My bike came with highbars as it is an imported '77 from the US but built in Japan. With the 5" bars the cable is just too long. Hopefully the shorter one will do the job. I've contacted wemoto.com who gave me the dimensions of the clutch cable they stock for pre-78 GoldWings - 157cm inner cable, 145cm outer cable. I checked the withdrawn existing cable which is 175cm inner cable, 152cm outer cable. At just over £20 I have ordered one.

Getting the old clutch out was a struggle and took me about twenty minutes. The worst bit was removing the lower end from the clutch as the adjuster simply got in the way. Also where the cable passes the breather pipes. It was easier to undo these and pull them to one side. Incidentally the inner cable was very stiff within the outer cable, 37yrs of lack of lubrication.

How on earth I shall manage to adjust the clutch with everything in the way, I shall find out. It looks just about inaccessible. Also the above diagrams suggest the clutch cover is mounted onto the clutch with a large round gasket between the surfaces. Is that right as mine is simply metal to metal?

The Wemoto part number for the shorter clutch cable is 425935.
Present bikes -

BMW R100/7
1989 BMW R100GS-Paris Dakar
MZ ETZ250 Trials
1977 Honda GL1000 GoldWing

Paul Narramore
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Posts: 367
Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2014 6:18 am
Location: Aylesford, Kent, UK

Re: Clutch Cable replacement

Post #14 by Paul Narramore » Fri Jul 31, 2015 1:11 pm

Well the replacement cable has arrived - its a TSX Hi-Lex control cable (HL-425935) - and I have yet to install it but I can see already just how stiff the old cable was. I don't know if this is Teflon coated or not, no mention on the packaging, so have contacted TSX to check this.
Present bikes -

BMW R100/7
1989 BMW R100GS-Paris Dakar
MZ ETZ250 Trials
1977 Honda GL1000 GoldWing


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