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The NGW Project Bike. Wheel rebuild

This Is Strictly For The "How To" Sticky's

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octane
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The NGW Project Bike. Wheel rebuild

Post #1 by octane » Wed May 31, 2006 6:45 pm

IMPORTANT !
BEFORE YOU GO ON;
PLEASE READ
*THIS*.

Thanks.






PLEASE NOTE:
THESE WHEELS RIMS ARE NOT STANDARD HONDA RIMSso measurements etc. does NOT go for your standard Wing,
but the hubs are off cause standard and the whole process is the same


got a set of wide 16 inch wheels, made for a side car rig
from a guy in England.
Tires will have to go as they are 'flat'/square car/side-car type

Image


off they go. PROTECT your rims. Very easy to damage

Image


take LOTS of pictures, so you have a reference for spoke patern etc.
Again: note this is not a standard wheel/rim-set up

Image


take close ups. They will come in handy. I promise.-)
Image


note exactly how they are mounted
Image


in this case the 'outer' spokes are bend in shape


now it's time to be real carefull about measureing the off-set
Image


do it on both sides.
Image


you can use a saw as a straight-edge
Image


I hate it when using WD40 that it gets all over the workshop,
when really this is where I want it
(Charlie will probably comment on this.-)
so I fill a syringe and go like this. Yes I know; it a bit ana*
Image


all spokes are off
Image


gotta polish those rims
Image


that's much better. Rims after reworking on the electric polish wheel
hub polished and painted.
Spokes painted.Note they have different shapes.

Image


yes one more pic. they just look so niiiiiice
Image


time to put spokes back. On this wheel it was a real pain.
VERY small spokes means VERY little space to manuver them a round and back in where they belong on the rim
Image



after a few broken fingers they were back in
Image


oh yeah there's a front wheel too
Image


job finished ?
Image


adding a final touch
Image


now's the time for new bearings. Wack out the old ones
and pop in new ones
Image


use a socket same size as outer bearing shell
Image


to drift them in
Image


put in spacer before (!) you do the other side bearing
Image


never use a hammer directly on the bearing.
If you have noting else then allways use a soft thing like a piece of wood
to drift it in...and allways drift it in 'straight'
Image


and ALL the way into the recess
Image


Now comes the difficult part.
You need to get yor rim straight sideways (AXIAL RUNOUT)
, up/down (RADIAL RUNOUT)
AND get the right off-set.
I borrowed this nifty set-up from a friend
You can make a set-up much simpler
Image


as you go along tightening up the spoke nipples
you need to get an idea if you are on the right track
sideways and radialImage


keep an eye on the off-set.
Check again and again
Image



It not the easiest of tasks, but you move the rim sideway by very carefully turing nipples going left or right side of hub respectively
Image
AND
while you do that; NOT moving the hub out of up/down center true
AND
get the off-set right
AND
also get as even as possible a tension in all spoke

PHEW took me a few hours to get it right


if you want to get it absolutely spot on
you'll need a micro-meter.
This one is not the normal 'piston' up/down type
but a pivot type of thing
The measuering 'rod' moves on an axle.
Here measuering radial runout , centering of hub
and you should do the same thing for axial runout.
Image


and while the meter is out; check the axles
to see if they are true/straight
Image


Put disques/rotors back on
Image


very few people has the right tool for this
so this will do for putting back bearing retainer
Image

carefull here; this could harm the tube, so file down
Image


and don't forget that rubber-band thingie that proects
the tube
Image


ready to take to the local MC workshop
to mount the tires.
NOTHING is gonna make me mount modern rubber
(mmm....that sounded funny somehow)
Image
Last edited by octane on Sat Jun 03, 2006 1:20 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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Post #2 by Zryder » Wed May 31, 2006 8:34 pm

Great question answered . What size of 16 " are you putting on Octane ? Thanks . ( Z )
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Post #3 by octane » Thu Jun 01, 2006 4:24 am

Hi Z
Like you; Venom 140/90 - 16 ",
but both rear AND front. (I know; you're not really supposed to do that but; the front tyre is the same a rear . To do this, as a general rule;
one turns the front tyre to run opposite direction (the TYRE not the wheel...ha ha )

Tell me Z:
how much clearence to you have between rear tyre and
swingarm at the shaft-side ?

Thanks

Octane

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Post #4 by Zryder » Thu Jun 01, 2006 6:58 am

Mine I have what looks close to 3/8 " clearance shaft side , Not sure what that is in metric as I'm sure you use on that side of the pond :oops: I'll check later today for sure , just waking up and having coffee . I Thank You for info , Great Work Octane tumb2 ( Z )
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Post #5 by Annie's Boyfriend » Thu Jun 01, 2006 3:36 pm

Nice work, Lars.

Do you think a rear rim could also be used as a front using (new) standardsize spokes ?? :-?

I have been thinking about this for quite some time now.

I like the fat look it gives your frontend, how does it handle ??

Bart
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Post #6 by octane » Fri Jun 02, 2006 10:38 am

Annie's Boyfriend wrote:Do you think a rear rim could also be used as a front using (new) standardsize spokes .....


Hi Bart
Just some thoughts;

...I really don't know about that.
Front and rear have same number of spokes
20 type A + 20 type B = 40 spokes
but
wether you can match a front hub and a rear-rim
depends on wether the position of the holes in those little 'bumps' on the rear-rim
(in witch the you mount the nipple through the hole)
have a position that will 'piont' the nipples in the right direction,
that is, where they mount on the front hub

and also look into wether front and rear spokes have the same
"cross-over pattern".
I can check later.


This is the 'bumps' / recess I'm talking about
and as you can see (well you can't really see the hole, but you know what I mean)
the position of that hole will point the spoke in a certain direction:
Image



...so as I said; I don't know. Will check later.

One thing's most certaintly for shure;
the front spokes will be too long as they are meant for a 19" rim
and the rear-rim is 17",
but having them made up to size is no problem.



Front
Image



Rear
Image


I like the fat look it gives your frontend, how does it handle ??


...I wish I knew, but I haven't driven it yet.

One things for sure;
I'm f****** with the geometrics of the bike
especially the steering

The rims I've used here are 16" front and rear
so;

Effectively I'm lowering the
front (17" minus 16")= 1" divided by two = ½ "
and
rear (19" minus 16")= 3" divided by two = 1½ "

witch has some consequenses on the stability/steering of the bike.


Maybe lower the fork 1" ??? so front and rear is lowered equally.

so a total of front-lowering of (1" + ½") = 1½"
...witch will also have dire consequenses for the steering/stability !
and bring the whole bike seriously close to the ground.

...donno. We'll see.



Anyone done this before ?

Best regards
Octane
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not when there is nothing left to add
but when there is nothing left to take away"

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Post #7 by Zryder » Fri Jun 02, 2006 10:51 am

Octane per chance would you have the same type of drawing for the swing arm only ? I am presently gathering info of such to possibly triking my bike in the future , so any inside info on the swingarm is apreciated . Thanks in advance . ( Z )
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Post #8 by Annie's Boyfriend » Fri Jun 02, 2006 11:22 am

I believe Henk did use the rear rim on the front.

Image

Henk, if you are watching this.....

Can you share your experiences in this ??

Bart
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Post #9 by octane » Fri Jun 02, 2006 11:42 am

...ha ha ha ; I was just about to post that picture .-)

Anyway; found that thread about Henks bike:
http://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1635&highlight=henk
(scroll down)
and what he says is:

"... the wheel in the Goldwing is 16 inch acrond [Akront] whit stainless steel spokes
and the same tire ass [as] normally is at the back wheel from Continentel
you can also put this wane [one] on the front wheel in the opposite turning direction..."

[]= my 'translation'

so;
no, he didn't use the standard rear rim (17") to mount at the front.
He did the same thing as I did.; used 16" front and rear rims from AKRONT
and (as I understand it) used the same (rear-type-)tyre front and rear,
but mounted in opposite turning-direction at the front.

Octane

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Post #10 by octane » Fri Jun 02, 2006 11:53 am

Zryder wrote:Octane per chance would you have the same type of drawing for the swing arm only ? I am presently gathering info of such to possibly triking my bike in the future , so any inside info on the swingarm is apreciated . Thanks in advance . ( Z )


Hi Z...sorry nothing on the 82 I'm afraid.
but you can find something here


Startpage: Goldwinginfo
...then click your model at the bar at the top
...click Technical
...OEM parts
...Rear Fork

and you'll find a drawing of the swingarm


Regards
octane

Regards
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Post #11 by Annie's Boyfriend » Fri Jun 02, 2006 11:56 am

Oooh, I see now.

I didn't understand what Henk meant with acrond, now I know what you mean.

Looks fat respekt2
Annie

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Little Ship of Dreams ...........



( lyric from "Dreamboat Annie" by Heart)



http://www.nakedgoldwings.com/gallery/Dreamboat-Annie



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Post #12 by octane » Fri Jun 02, 2006 12:32 pm

Wooha Z

Found these:


Swingarm 80-82
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Diff. 80-82
Image

Octane

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Post #13 by octane » Fri Jun 02, 2006 12:34 pm

...so; 16" front and rear

Anyone done this before ?
Any experience to share ?

Thanks

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Post #14 by Adam E. » Fri Jun 02, 2006 5:21 pm

Beautiful work Octane - You're a Master!

Adam

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Post #15 by Try » Sat Jun 03, 2006 10:46 am

Adam E. wrote:Beautiful work Octane - You're a Master!


Count me in, great work Octane!! respekt2
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