Speedometer/Tachometer, an Open & Shut Case
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- Roady
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Speedometer/Tachometer, an Open & Shut Case
The speedometer on my bike has been flaky since day 1. On the best days it would wave around slightly, varying 5 up or down. I knew that I was going along somewhere in the middle. On bad days (and days, weeks ...) it would peg at the top and scream bloody murder. Ear plugs helped but the noise managed to get past even the best ones I had. Plus, when turning, the darn yelping beeper would always be on. Removing the cable was the only way to get away from the noise. But then I wasn't tracking miles on the odometer, which always worked fine.
Years ago I received a broken speedometer from Brant, thinking at the time that I'd use its parts to repair mine. I opened that one by prying the ring and that worked out pretty good. But at the time, mine started acting okay and I boxed up the mishmash of parts for another day.
I finally decided today was the day to open the thing up and fix it. And I didn't want to cut the ring and then try to figure out the best way to seal it back up. Here's how I did it.
Opening a GL1100 Speedometer or Tachometer
This is similar on all analog gauges.
On the GL1100 speedometer (and tach, I assume), there's a small cutout in the back case's lip. Back being the one toward the front of the bike ... with the cable mount and wires sticking out. (Oh man, now I'm confusing myself. How about a picture?)
If your ring is clean all the way around, that cutout is as good a place to start as any. If your ring is discolored or rusty that's where you want to work. You'll be prying up about half the way 'round and then you'll hide that area down and to the inside.
[attachment=9]1start.jpg[/attachment]
I have a large collection of dental tools in the toolbox. They are very strong and have various tip shapes. Pretty handy things that I picked up at a swap meet for cheap. You might use a utility knife (careful) or a pocket knife for this step.
[attachment=8]2tools.jpg[/attachment]
Work your tool back and forth to open a small gap.
[attachment=7]3pry.jpg[/attachment]
Just pry the ring up enough to be able to slip in a small screwdriver.
[attachment=6]4pry.jpg[/attachment]
With the screwdriver just catching the tip, press in and then down on the handle. Do not twist the screwdriver, you'll make major dents and may even tear the ring. Work the ring up a bit and move the screwdriver 1/16 inch sideways. Then press in and down on the handle a bit. Do that for 1/2 inch or so and then work back over the same area lifting the edge of the ring a little more.
[attachment=5]5indown.jpg[/attachment]
Continue the in and down action until you lifted half way around the ring. Take your time, take a break, smoke 'em if you got 'em.
[attachment=4]6indown.jpg[/attachment]
When half of the ring has been bent up you're ready to pop that baby out. At the half way point of your bent-up area, slip your screwdriver under the ring and over the case -AND- the rubber sealing ring. Try not to gouge into the rubber.
Lift the screwdriver up this time and the rear case should start slipping out from under the ring. But don't push up so hard that you bend the ring any more than it already is. You might have to move around and pry up in your bent-up area. Be patient and it'll come free.
[attachment=3]7inup.jpg[/attachment]
Remove the two Phillips head screws.
[attachment=2]8phillips.jpg[/attachment]
Open up the wire ties.
[attachment=1]9stays.jpg[/attachment]
Separate the case. The ring will stay on the front case (the one with the glass).
The GL1100 trip meter knob will slip through the hole in the case, but you will have to tear the boot away. Mine was already torn away so I didn't worry about it much. I just glued it back in when reassembling. I've seen notes about some Honda speedos that say the knob is reverse threaded. Turn it clockwise to remove it. I tried holding the stem with needlenose pliers and turning the knob but it would not come free ... your results may vary.
If you got it apart okay, putting it back together is a breeze. Put the gauge into the front case and thread the wires back through their holes in the back case.
Thread the two Phillips screws in but do not tighten them down.
Slip the un-crimped section of the ring back over the back case. This takes a bit of doin' but you'll get it on there. Tighten the Phillips screws. Center the trip shaft in its hole.
For the next step, I picked my biggest (and oldest) pair of pliers to put the ring back on. To protect the ring from scratches, cover the tips of the pliers with duct tape, cloth or something. I used masking tape which wasn't quite up to the job so I had to watch it and replace as needed.
With the bottom jaw of the pliers, press in and up on the ring on the front case. Then gently roll up the bent-up part of the ring. You don't want to clamp the pliers down, you want to roll the edge of the ring in. Start at one end of the bent part and work around, gradually moving the edge back into its place.
[attachment=0]10pliers.jpg[/attachment]
Opening my case took about an hour and closing it up took about half an hour.
Now, put it back on the bike and go for a ride already!
(I swapped parts from two speedos and did a little light lubing with White Lithium Grease while I was in there. On the broken one, I tried to remove the needle to see how I'd put on new faces, not that I needed them but just to experiment. I broke off the needle, don't know how you'd get it off or how you'd get it back on in the correct position. If replacing the face, I'd cut a slit or two in the middle and slip it over the needle, then just glue those cuts down.)
Years ago I received a broken speedometer from Brant, thinking at the time that I'd use its parts to repair mine. I opened that one by prying the ring and that worked out pretty good. But at the time, mine started acting okay and I boxed up the mishmash of parts for another day.
I finally decided today was the day to open the thing up and fix it. And I didn't want to cut the ring and then try to figure out the best way to seal it back up. Here's how I did it.
Opening a GL1100 Speedometer or Tachometer
This is similar on all analog gauges.
On the GL1100 speedometer (and tach, I assume), there's a small cutout in the back case's lip. Back being the one toward the front of the bike ... with the cable mount and wires sticking out. (Oh man, now I'm confusing myself. How about a picture?)
If your ring is clean all the way around, that cutout is as good a place to start as any. If your ring is discolored or rusty that's where you want to work. You'll be prying up about half the way 'round and then you'll hide that area down and to the inside.
[attachment=9]1start.jpg[/attachment]
I have a large collection of dental tools in the toolbox. They are very strong and have various tip shapes. Pretty handy things that I picked up at a swap meet for cheap. You might use a utility knife (careful) or a pocket knife for this step.
[attachment=8]2tools.jpg[/attachment]
Work your tool back and forth to open a small gap.
[attachment=7]3pry.jpg[/attachment]
Just pry the ring up enough to be able to slip in a small screwdriver.
[attachment=6]4pry.jpg[/attachment]
With the screwdriver just catching the tip, press in and then down on the handle. Do not twist the screwdriver, you'll make major dents and may even tear the ring. Work the ring up a bit and move the screwdriver 1/16 inch sideways. Then press in and down on the handle a bit. Do that for 1/2 inch or so and then work back over the same area lifting the edge of the ring a little more.
[attachment=5]5indown.jpg[/attachment]
Continue the in and down action until you lifted half way around the ring. Take your time, take a break, smoke 'em if you got 'em.
[attachment=4]6indown.jpg[/attachment]
When half of the ring has been bent up you're ready to pop that baby out. At the half way point of your bent-up area, slip your screwdriver under the ring and over the case -AND- the rubber sealing ring. Try not to gouge into the rubber.
Lift the screwdriver up this time and the rear case should start slipping out from under the ring. But don't push up so hard that you bend the ring any more than it already is. You might have to move around and pry up in your bent-up area. Be patient and it'll come free.
[attachment=3]7inup.jpg[/attachment]
Remove the two Phillips head screws.
[attachment=2]8phillips.jpg[/attachment]
Open up the wire ties.
[attachment=1]9stays.jpg[/attachment]
Separate the case. The ring will stay on the front case (the one with the glass).
The GL1100 trip meter knob will slip through the hole in the case, but you will have to tear the boot away. Mine was already torn away so I didn't worry about it much. I just glued it back in when reassembling. I've seen notes about some Honda speedos that say the knob is reverse threaded. Turn it clockwise to remove it. I tried holding the stem with needlenose pliers and turning the knob but it would not come free ... your results may vary.
If you got it apart okay, putting it back together is a breeze. Put the gauge into the front case and thread the wires back through their holes in the back case.
Thread the two Phillips screws in but do not tighten them down.
Slip the un-crimped section of the ring back over the back case. This takes a bit of doin' but you'll get it on there. Tighten the Phillips screws. Center the trip shaft in its hole.
For the next step, I picked my biggest (and oldest) pair of pliers to put the ring back on. To protect the ring from scratches, cover the tips of the pliers with duct tape, cloth or something. I used masking tape which wasn't quite up to the job so I had to watch it and replace as needed.
With the bottom jaw of the pliers, press in and up on the ring on the front case. Then gently roll up the bent-up part of the ring. You don't want to clamp the pliers down, you want to roll the edge of the ring in. Start at one end of the bent part and work around, gradually moving the edge back into its place.
[attachment=0]10pliers.jpg[/attachment]
Opening my case took about an hour and closing it up took about half an hour.
Now, put it back on the bike and go for a ride already!
(I swapped parts from two speedos and did a little light lubing with White Lithium Grease while I was in there. On the broken one, I tried to remove the needle to see how I'd put on new faces, not that I needed them but just to experiment. I broke off the needle, don't know how you'd get it off or how you'd get it back on in the correct position. If replacing the face, I'd cut a slit or two in the middle and slip it over the needle, then just glue those cuts down.)
- Attachments
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- 1start.jpg (33.59 KiB) Viewed 3188 times
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- 2tools.jpg (26.89 KiB) Viewed 3188 times
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- 3pry.jpg (22.53 KiB) Viewed 3188 times
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- 4pry.jpg (25.5 KiB) Viewed 3188 times
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- 5indown.jpg (29.47 KiB) Viewed 3188 times
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- 6indown.jpg (34.6 KiB) Viewed 3188 times
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- 7inup.jpg (37.89 KiB) Viewed 3188 times
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- 8phillips.jpg (54.59 KiB) Viewed 3188 times
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- 9stays.jpg (58.63 KiB) Viewed 3188 times
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- 10pliers.jpg (34.45 KiB) Viewed 3188 times
- fish
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Re: Speedometer/Tachometer, an Open & Shut Case
Roady thank for taking the time to photograph and write this
sounds like finesse and patience are the key
sounds like finesse and patience are the key
Timothy Mark Fisher
Catalina Arizona
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"ride it.. don't be one of those guys who will fix it 'til it's broken" (JDVorchek)
"It is not logic or economics that drive a motorcyclist but passion!" (bugdaddy66)
"I fully agree with fish, well at least 27% of the time."(Casper)
"Why do you have to ruin a perfectly good thread with common sense"(Placerville)
"my best guess for an answer would be a stream of complex expletives" (Transitman)
"I like a cold beer with my beer" (OldeWing)
"Most of us like the sport of wrenching too." (fred camper)
"Now go ride the heck out of it, til mother says do your chores"(Gowing)
"I agree with Fish" (Salukispeed)
- Oldewing
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Re: Speedometer/Tachometer, an Open & Shut Case
Nice work Steve, glad to see you found your yellow pointing thingys...
82 GL1100 Interstate-Oldewing October 23 BOTM
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Sometimes I wrestle with my inner demons.........
Other times we just hug.......
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And always remember: beer has some food value--but food has NO beer value...
06 GL1800 Road bike, as in Rode alot...
Sometimes I wrestle with my inner demons.........
Other times we just hug.......
Team 898
Team LTD 993
Team 76 R2B3
And always remember: beer has some food value--but food has NO beer value...
- Placerville
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Re: Speedometer/Tachometer, an Open & Shut Case
Nice job on both the description and photos.
I agree, 'prying up' is the best all-around method. I tried both 'the cut' and 'the pry' on some junk gauges I had.....the pry was cosmetically the best. As you said, patience is a virtue.
I agree, 'prying up' is the best all-around method. I tried both 'the cut' and 'the pry' on some junk gauges I had.....the pry was cosmetically the best. As you said, patience is a virtue.
- polkadot
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Re: Speedometer/Tachometer, an Open & Shut Case
I Love Roady's Flying Fickle Finger of Fate! Great job Roadster. Did you clean and lube the inside? I would like to see that as my gauges are really working slowly!
Hope for the best, expect the worst and take what comes!
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1977 Candy Sirus Blue Wing (gone but not forgotten!): Ernie's 77 Resto
1998 Yellow/Creme Valkyrie (sold): Valk Redo
1976 Sulfur Yellow Wing (sold): Melloyellow to live again
1976 LTD #1353 (sold): And away we go . . . . LTD style
1970 CT90 (sold): Had too much time on my hands so . . .
1/4 of 1975 Wing #898 (Sold): Team 898 - raised from the ashes
70ish Benelli Dynamo Scrambler (sold): Erector Set/Treasure Hunt aka Benelli Dynamo
1/6 of 1976 LTD #993 (Sold): LTD 993 . . . and so it begins
- Roady
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Re: Speedometer/Tachometer, an Open & Shut Case
Thanks fellas.
I did do a clean and light lube and will be adding to the first post.
In the past, I forced Lithium Grease up into the hole where the cable goes. That helped, on and off, for a time. But the inside was all goobered-up (a highly technical term, look it up), especially around the bell and magnets. That was probably not a good idea.
I did do a clean and light lube and will be adding to the first post.
In the past, I forced Lithium Grease up into the hole where the cable goes. That helped, on and off, for a time. But the inside was all goobered-up (a highly technical term, look it up), especially around the bell and magnets. That was probably not a good idea.
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Re: Speedometer/Tachometer, an Open & Shut Case
That is correct, but the later speedos had the knob fixed with some sort of thread lock. Trust me, these will NOT come off!I've seen notes about some Honda speedos that say the knob is reverse threaded. Turn it clockwise to remove it. I tried holding the stem with needlenose pliers and turning the knob but it would not come free ... your results may vary.
First turn the needle to a speed that you will remember and mark the frame and driven cone with a felt pen.I tried to remove the needle to see how I'd put on new faces, not that I needed them but just to experiment. I broke off the needle, don't know how you'd get it off or how you'd get it back on in the correct position.
To remove the needle, use two teaspoons, one on each side of it with the bowl resting in the two face screws and the tips under the needle. Lever gently and it will come off.
Oil and/or grease getting between the bell and the magnet will cause erratic readings. If the problem is the cable lube, use graphite powder. If it’s the speedo itself, once it’s opened up a tiny drop of light machine oil on the needle spindle will suffice for that ; there is also an oylite bush in the threaded potion of the drive which needs oiling too.In the past, I forced Lithium Grease up into the hole where the cable goes. That helped, on and off, for a time. But the inside was all goobered-up (a highly technical term, look it up), especially around the bell and magnets. That was probably not a good idea.
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If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff)
I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
- Roady
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Re: Speedometer/Tachometer, an Open & Shut Case
Thank you John. I'll include your notes in the OP.
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Re: Speedometer/Tachometer, an Open & Shut Case
Thanks Roady, I've been contemplating doing mine because it is so slow, but I checked it two weeks ago with a gps and it surprised me by being accurate, so I'll just wait...nice to be armed with the knowledge of how to do it though...
Brian Crow
1977 gl1000, with California sidecar
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"KBO"!! Keep bungling on! Winston Churchill
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Re: Speedometer/Tachometer, an Open & Shut Case
Nice job Steve. The pics are so good I feel like I was there!
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---- Bradshaw Bikes custom polishing for your wing. Visit us on facebook!
1978 Learning Experience
1980 County Road Hauler "Brain Damage"
1978 Cafe Custom Gl1000 "Vyper"
1977 Bulldog Inspired "Vaincre"
1981 Street Fighter GL1100 "No Quarter"
1983 Supercharged Street Drag "Anubis" (in worx)
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- gltriker
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Re: Speedometer/Tachometer, an Open & Shut Case
Cliff )
Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday.
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RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
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Cliff
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Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday.
New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST
^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^
RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing
"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT Me Too!!
Cliff
'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome
previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
- tlbranth
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Re: Speedometer/Tachometer, an Open & Shut Case
Hey Roady - where's the pictures?
Terry
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Don't own a Vanagon
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Re: Speedometer/Tachometer, an Open & Shut Case
This was posted 10 years ago and our site has undergone a couple of updates that cost us some picture links.
Roady may have his 'originals' and will hopefully update when he next visits ....
Gord
Roady may have his 'originals' and will hopefully update when he next visits ....
Gord
"I'd rather Ride than Shine"
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My Original 'RAT' was a hybrid '82 CB900/1100F
‘14 KLR650 ... not a rat ... yet
‘84 GL1200i ‘R2B6' (Rat to Be 6, the last, adopted by twowings)
My Original 'RAT' was a hybrid '82 CB900/1100F
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Re: Speedometer/Tachometer, an Open & Shut Case
yea these were hosted somewhere besides NGW. Hopefully he has them backed up somewhere.
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Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
"Yea I do dance awkwardly, and I am having more fun than you" Taylor Swift
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1984 GL1200 Standard
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
- Roady
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Re: Speedometer/Tachometer, an Open & Shut Case
Yep, those are on filipi like most of my pics.
Hoping this doesn't mean I have to find and replace 'em all (been dreading that for a while).
.
Hoping this doesn't mean I have to find and replace 'em all (been dreading that for a while).
.
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