Single Carb Conversion 2 Barrel Progressive, Runs Excellent

[westgl]

I just finished a Single Carb Conversion, on my 83' GL1100

I want to start off by saying that this was a collaborative effort,

I did not do this Alone.

And,

My Bike, is not the only Bike, that is Running Great Now, with this Exact or very Similar Single Carb Conversion setup.

This Single carb. Setup, is a Forumla for success, out of the box success, with the 32DFT 2-barrel Progressive Carb. No Jetting at all, all i did was, remove the Elec. auto choke (It is Not needed) start the engine, and set the Idle to 1000 rpm, Then inspect for leaks, air up the tires and Go for a Ride.

I am Not Selling Anything,

I want to provide to everyone, the Best running Carb.'d Intake system available for the 4cyl. Goldwing.

Bold statement, i know,

Read through My documentation here of all the efforts Involved, to get to this Point By all that have contributed to achieve this Goal.

Thanks go to The following people that made this all Possible;
in no particular order,

Joe Known as JoeDrum He is running this Single Carb. System Currently
on the ClassicGoldWing forum http://www.classicgoldwings.com/foru...php?f=9&t=6619
Dan Filipi Also Classic Goldwing Forum He is building this Single Carb. System Currently
As well as Others on that site
Captain MidNight, He is on every Site He is running this Single Carb. System Currently
Robbnc, He is on Steve Saunders Goldwing site, He is running this Single Carb. System Currently
& Me
Westgl I am on all Goldwing forums pretty much. I am running this Single Carb. System Currently

My Bike runs Flawless, no Hesitation or Bogging at all at any time while riding.

The others listed above, are having the same great results, that i am having.

It is what Honda should have provided.

The carb i used was a Weber 32DFT 2-Barrel Progressive.

They reason why i think this works SOOOO! Well is!!

Let me start off by saying I have re-built several Oem carb racks, using the Randaak kit, polishing the slides so that they are free to move, I did not realize how slow reacting the CV carbs are, until i switched to a single carb the Right size, that is perfectly jetted right out of the box.

All while providing a performance increase.

While my Bike ran good with the stock OEM 4 carb rack,

I still got the for me Big Problem of Forgetting to turn off the Fuel tank, Fuel Cut off valve, and the fuel leaks out all over the top of the engine and on the ground Not to mention the engine is Now Hydro Locked, what a pain in the A$$$$.

And if you are out away from home when it happens,

Last time it happened, that was it.

I will NOT be returning to my Stock rebuilt OEM 4carbs anchor

1. The Carb I used, Is setup and is Ready to bolt on, right out of the Box, it is Ready to Go all perfectly Jetted from the factory, only thing i had to do was adjust the Idle.

It idles at 1000 rpm, i could idle it lower, but i dont recommend it, as you need a certain amount of oil pressure at idle, for proper lubrication of bearings.

The big problem with using say a 32/36DGV is Too much fuel on progression, and venturi choke's are too BIG on the 32/36DGV, to be completely and Totally smooth, and linear in operation. You open the Secondary barrel, Then You Get BOGGGGG!! Hesitation, then Go!,

I am not saying that the 32/36DGV cannot be done.

But!!! It wont be a Right out of the box bolt it on and go down the the road conversion,

With the 32DFT it is a very Smooth transition from Primary to secondary Barrel, throttle Transition is Very linear,

Very SMOOTH!, So SMOOTH!! in every part of the Throttle

No Hesitation At All.

No Bogging, Any where in the throttle,

It Just Goes!!!

I think in part the reason why the 32DFT Runs so GREAT!!

Is the small chokes in the venturi's they are, 22mm ea that is small for a 32mm ea venturi, and speeds the air fuel charge through very fast.

This Carb is already Jetted to our 4cyl. Goldwing engines, and are ready to go, right out of the box.

Physically this carb. is smaller than the 32/36DGV, and Squirts much less fuel into the engine, for this is another reason it runs so well.

i will post some pictures

[westgl]

The 32DFT Is a 32/32mm Progressive carb

It works very Well in part due to a small Choked Venturi, a 32x32mm throttle bore choked down to just 22mm this speeds up the Fuel air charge, that combined with the long intake runners provide Great engine Torque, and More usable power than you ever thought possible.

We are using a VW Type IV alum. Manifold Plenum

Many people have used this many without success,

Until Now,

It is our winning combination, that just works very well.

We do not try to use a carb. that is Way, Way to big in either Air or Fuel delivery, that plus the rest of this system all provides a winning combination.

[westgl]

Pic#2 shows the Uni Link kit for the throttle cable hook up, it is very solid, and works very nice like OEM
Note: you may need a shorter throttle cable.

Pic#4
Notice the slight twist in the Carb & VW plenum, that is what you want, But check that you carb is centered over the centerline of the engine case halves.

Note:
Verify the location of your Carb.'s, Fuel Inlet I used a 90 degree brass fitting, and it's relation ship to the bikes frame, as you dont want any contact here.

I had about a 1/4" spacing

Last pic is a large fender washer to large to drop down into the carb and into the engine.
That washer is used for a Air filter top, to support under it, so when you tighten the top wing nut it wont crush/deform the air filter top by being able to over tighten it, now it has a stop.

Also Crank case breather shown in this picture as well, another Napa Item, this also Cannot Fall into the carb. as it is clamped from underneath and the crank case breather hose keeps it locked into place

[westgl]

Here are Pictures of my intake,

Made out of Silicone Hose, that is Fuel Proof, High heat proof to 500+ degrees, High pressure & vacuum rated, and stiff enough enough to Not have any hose collapsing issues.

But flexible enough to make any curve that need to be made,

Silicone Hose is VERY smooth inside, almost slick.

Pic#2 shows my Throttle cable attachment, it is Very solid, like OEM solid. I have not had any trouble with it at all.

It is a Empi Uni-Link Kit, $10.00+ shippiing

Look at the last Picture, the carb, fit between the frame very easy, Much Better than the 32/36DGV as it is a smaller Carb. body family

I will get into the Carb. Body family more later

[westgl]

OK, so How does it run, you ask.

I said it was Smooth in all transitions and all throttle positions any where No hesitation no bogging, at all any where.

Idle is very smooth, at a 1000 rpm
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With all that said, this is the way this bike should have been from the factory from day one.

I will Not over exaggerate, But at the same Time i will Not Under exaggerate either, and I will try to keep it real.

My GL1100 has Been Transformed into a differnt Bike is all i can tell you.

It is Very Torquey!!

It is more like a GL1500 6cyl. in that more torque down low from a stop, up through mid range and into the upper rpm range and to REDLINE!

It revs very fast!!

My thoughts why this is so very much different than our Oem stock carbs.
Longer intake runners provide Lots More torque.
The oem 4 carb rack has CV carbs, they are very slow to actuate, a lot of delay time built in, this may be a De-tuning ploy to keep their customers safer
(especially new riders) and keeping the power lower, to reduce lawsuits.

I am able to break the rear tire loose.

[westgl]

OK, so How does it run, you ask.

I said it was Smooth in all transitions and all throttle positions any where No hesitation no bogging, at all any where.

Idle is very smooth, at a 1000 rpm
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With all that said, this is the way this bike should have been from the factory from day one.

I will Not over exaggerate, But at the same Time i will Not Under exaggerate either, and I will try to keep it real.

My GL1100 has Been Transformed into a differnt Bike is all i can tell you.

It is Very Torquey!!

It is more like a GL1500 6cyl. in that more torque down low from a stop, up through mid range and into the upper rpm range and to REDLINE!

It revs very fast!!

My thoughts why this is so very much different than our Oem stock carbs.
Longer intake runners provide Lots More torque.
The oem 4 carb rack has CV carbs, they are very slow to actuate, a lot of delay time built in, this may be a De-tuning ploy to keep their customers safer
(especially new riders) and keeping the power lower, to reduce lawsuits.

I am able to break the rear tire loose.

[westgl]

- - - Ride Report - - -

I want to say My 83' GL1100 With this Single Carb. Conversion is MUCH FASTER!! Than it was with the 4ea OEM carbs.

I did 0- 90mph Fast!!, Yesterday, on my first road test, this Bike is Very Torquey with the Single 2-barrel Progressive carb,

That was a 25 mile test ride and back home for a visual inspection, of all fluids.

It is more like a GL1500 6Cylinder bike in that it has more low end, mid range, and even upper end power.

Went and got Premium fuel topped off, as gas was more than 6-months old, but had a stabilizer in it, and is bike was stored inside, and out of the weather.

Temp out said 65 degrees,

Roll on performance is just Great!! Much better than the stock OEM Boat Anchor Carbs.

This bike actually scared me a couple times, so i can put it into that category, because it is Much faster than before.

Performance has gone From good to GREAT!!!.

I took some Fast turns at much faster than posted speed limit and powered out of the turns very fast.

I dont want to over rate it, But at the same time I dont want to under rate it either

Is it faster Now! than my 83' GL1100 was stock with the (OEM 4 carb Cod Catcher) YES!!! it is.

I Noticed that the Bike really set me back when i got on it.

I did a couple of standing starts, and revved the bike like I would have before the single cab conversion, Did a fast run like i use to with the bike in Oem configuration.

Meaning, i would rev up and shift at a higher RPM range like 5000, 6000, 7000, and to Redline rpm.

It is Fast! Very torquey

From a stop, I revved the engine up to, well it was close or to Redline.

I took it through the gears, revving it high, all the way up.

It Moved Out Very Nicely!!, this is a performance Enhancement for sure.

Through out the rev range this bike with the 32DFT really impressed me.

I want to do a comparison
I want to ride my;
83' GL1100 with the single 2bbl. then after about 30 minutes,

jump on my 86' GL1200 it still has oem carbs that have been gone through, and it runs very good, for stock.

I would like to do this as a back to back comparison.

And another comparison between my 98' GL1500 6cyl. &,

GL1100-2 4cyl. to see differences.

Back to Riding the GL11-2

Riding the GL11-2 today, It is much more powerful, & Much Faster than it was Yesterday.

Torque, Power, & Acceleration are Much Better today than Yesterday.
Down in the low range MORE Torque is a definite Increase to like Goldwing 6cyl engines.
Mid range, the same, higher torque like a 6cyl.
High end is much better than yesterday.

This bike will really run, I am very Impressed!!

I had a nice straight long run, bike flew up to 100+ maybe closer to 105-110mph still had a lot to go.

If i had to guess, 120mph maybe close to top but maybe more, im not will to test it though.

5th gear on my 83' GL11-2 is a freeway flyer, gear, some of my roll on info from yesterday was in 5th gear and 5th gear is a freeway flyer, but a down shift to 4th gear, rev it up and your gone.

That added 6cyl. like torque is nice, because like a GL1500 you are not shifting as often, you dont need to, it pulls from 2k rpm easily.

Going through the gears reeving the engine between 3k, to 7k + provides Extreme Acceleration.

The reason why I say it is like a 6-cylinder is I can take the engine in 4th gear, and run it slower down to 25mph with Rpm’s at 2000rpm and then power out of a turn and away.

With NO lugging at all.

I also tried it at 1800rpm and accelerated out of a turn, also No lugging, but acceleration is much more brisk if you keep the engine in it power curve which is 3K and up.

Even My GL1500 6cyl. Would Not do that, accelerating from 1800-2000 rpm in a high gear without a lot of complaining, and very slow acceleration.

And there is no way in hell you can do it with any 4-cylinder Goldwing

There is absolutely No hesitation at all any where,, no Bogging at all,

The jetting is set up perfectly right out of the box.

No choke is needed at all.

I would hazzard to say that my GL11-2 is a much better ride in every way, as it is Mildly mannered, very easy to ride, yet really fast now, very smooth & More powerful over the Oem steaming pile o bull stein4.

Only thing i can think of is, the OEM 4-carb Cod catcher , maybe De-Tuned from the factory? the reason of getting Rid of all that torque, maybe to keep the buying public safe, and there law suits, Much less.

More torque Makes more sense, with a big touring, heavy hauling bike, that may tow more weight.

It had to be the MFR's lawyers were involved in decision making, legal reasons?

[westgl]

OK back to Carb Body Family

A carb. Body family is one that all the carb members in that family are the same Basic size, differences maybe, Venturi sizes, throttle plate sizes.

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The 32/36DGV is a big carb to much spread to work on our Oldwings Not a good fit, too much fuel chokes are too large, too much hesitation and bogging.

The first family is Large too large for any GL1000/GL1100/GL1200.

First Weber Carb Body Family
32/36DGV
38/38DGAS

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Second Weber Carb. Family This is what you want for all 4Cyl. Old Wings

740 24/25 with a 22mm choke (I have this carb also)
32DFT 32/32 with a 22mm choke (This is the one i am using it can be bought Bran New, Not a Worn out rebuilt old leaking carb.)

32/34DFT 32/34 with a 22mm choke (I have this carb also)

The three Carb.s listed above are closely identical, except for Ventures, and butterfly size.
They all take the same Carb. rebuild kit, that says it all.

28/32 is in the same family but i need to do more intel on this one, (I dont have this one)



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[backwoodz]

It sounds like you really like this setup.
Nice write up btw.

I may eventually go this roue with my 81. Where di you get the setup? I see some on ebay with the 32/36. I would like to start just buying the plenum. Where can it be bought seperate...or just the plenum and the carb?

[westgl]

Hey Backwoodz

Stay Tuned,

I will be providing all Info.

It really is a great setup.

If you have a GL1100-4carb., this conversion you will Make you Very happy.

I went through the OEM4 carb rack and rebuilt it, it worked well.

But you Cant compare the two, it is apples and oranges.

The single carb. setup is what Honda should have done in the first place, this is a very good Upgrade.

I did mine in a week end, i had it started, i had to make a cable hold bracket. That is the hardest part.

It sounds like you really like this setup.
Nice write up btw.

I may eventually go this roue with my 81. Where di you get the setup? I see some on ebay with the 32/36. I would like to start just buying the plenum. Where can it be bought seperate...or just the plenum and the carb?

[westgl]

It is what Honda should have provided.

Pro's
Idles Great at 1000RPM,
Smooth throttle, No bogging or hesitation at all, anywhere.
No re-jetting, or fooling with jets, just bolt on and Ride
Engine Revs Extremely Fasst! to Redline.
Instant starting, Every time.
This carb has a Accelerator pump, and is fantastic for throttle response, and start up.
No choke needed at all

Con's
I will have to get back to you when i find one.
__________________________________________________ ____________________________________________

Note: I do not have any MPG figures as it is too early to tell what that might be with this new single carb. conversion.

I have a Weber 32DFT 2bbl. progressive carb on a VW Type IV manifold using silicone rubber hose runners to the Oem GL1100 head stub Manifolds.

It Runs Excellent, and the engine revs. to 8K+RPM, Very Fast revving.

It runs so well i dont think I will have to re-jet the carb as it runs great the way it came.

All I had to do is adjust the Idle to 1000 rpm, that was it as far as tuning the carb.

[westgl]

I removed the auto choke on my 32DFT. as the carb. is too big to fit between the frame for me comfortably with the auto choke on it.

Trust me it does Not need a Choke, The Engine starts Very Fast! and Re- starts are Instant starts, they are Much easier and faster than stock 4 carbs

You will be amazed at how the bike starts with the single carb. installed

There is a vacuum port under the auto choke, that needs to be covered/Plugged.

Tip,
One of the screws that was removed from the choke can be screwed in that vacuum port, under the choke, it is easier than making block off a plate

I made a small block off plate, a manual choke could be made, very easily.

I got rid of the oem inlet can fuel filter going into the carb. & put a 1/8" pipe thread 90degree brass fuel inlet fitting.

I took off the front solenoid, and put in a plug, and another plug in under the fuel inlet is a smog inlet another plug here.

I removed the oem Choke lever arm on throttle shaft.

I bought a uni-Link Kit.

The Uni-Link is what i used to set up my throttle cable, it Holds the stock Pull cable end, and does a pretty good reliable job, I am getting full throttle, at this point and still have more movement at my hand to go than the Carb. needs to go to full throttle at the carb.

From what I have read, & when I pulled that vac. unit apart, it looks like there is some adjustment in that advance unit, to advance the timing some.

I need to make a bracket for the cable Adjustment Hold.

I have a design sketched out, for the stock Cable adjustment Hold.

The stock cable may be too long, If that is the case I have another cable that is 4" shorter, it looks just like the 83' GL1100 cable only 4" shorter, i think it was for a CB750 but i will have to verify that I have what bike it was for on the cable.

Only problem is finding stuff in my new shop is tuff, a lot of stuff still in boxes after the move, but the new shop is HUGH!!!

My bike is a 83' GL1100 and has a Vacuum operated advance.

I am using the vacuum port front right to advance the timing

I am Contemplating adding heat to the manifold center section.

But i am going to try it without heat first.

So far it runs great without any heat at all

as i do not ride in 40degree weather or less temps.

I have been thinking of using heat from the radiator to heat the intake air

[westgl]

One thing i did first, on the OEM intake Manifolds, was to liberally coat the the Rubber sections with Old Brake Fluid, or New to clean and soften the rubber, i left it on for about an hour, then wiped off all the Brake fluid, the rubber looked like new, and felt slightly softer, I want a good seal with No Leaks.

[westgl]

OK backwoodz

You can get the VW Type IV Manifolds a few places

1. CIP1.COM $59.00 New
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... e=C13-3241

2. The Samba.com under classified section, for approx $30.00 Used, just clean it up, verify no damage and the threaded holes are good

3. Ebay, used $? Used, just clean it up, verify no damage and the threaded holes are good

[westgl]

Hydro-Lock Situation.

I have had this happen 1 to many times, Fuel hydro.lock the engine, fuel all over the top of the engine, & floor,

If you are on the road you are SOL.

It is my fault for not shutting off the fuel tank shut off valve.

The place i buy these carbs from is owned and run buy a GM engineer, that place is called Langdons Stovebolt, Tom is the engineer.

Tom said that he has fuel pressure tested the 32DFT carb without any fuel cut off solenoid installed, on the front of the carb to 10PSI and he did not get any fuel past the float valve.

10psi is way more than we should ever need.

A Electric fuel pump should only be putting out 3-6psi maybe 7psi max. for Carb.

This sounded promising to cure my Hydro-lock situation.

Since i have Had my Carb conversion set up, i have not had a HL at all.

It has only been a few days

But the fuel filter is full as i can see it in the clear fuel filter i have on there now