The NGW Project Bike.DYNA electronic ignition.How-to INSTALL

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The NGW Project Bike.DYNA electronic ignition.How-to INSTALL

Post #1 by octane » Sun Apr 08, 2007 5:18 pm

Over time there's been so many question about
installing the DYNA electronic ignition,
both from folks having trouble doing it,
and folks asking if it's difficult etc.

So time for a "How-To":

I'll be following the order (more or less) that DYNA gives in their
installation instructions.
I'm just adding pictures and a bit of blahblah.

NOTE: this is the newest edition of the DYNA
which means that it comes with a ballast resistor.
This installation is for installing the DYNA
retaining the original coils.
More on installing High Performance coils
to come later.



Find your coils/resistor set-up.
Should be somewhere around here:

Image

..so open the lid to your 'glove compartment'
..remove plastic tray
..remove air filter / air-filter box

You can just about see them there,
right behind the middle frame tube.

Image

This shows where they are (if your false tank was off)

Image

and anyway it's easier to see it this way:
(NOT that you need to, or should, remove them from the frame!!!)

Image

Ballast resistor (white thingy) and coils.
(Now if any of your coils is cracked like the one on the right
you better order a new one right now)




..remove the two wires from the resistor
and remove ballast resistor:

Image



..grab the resistor that comes with the DYNA-set

Image


..mount it just like the original one
..connect wires


(*) Please see note at the end of the post
IF you are installing the Dyna Hi-Performance Coils



Image

..remount air filter/box etc.


Open side cover and locate the turn signal flasher,
and grab the WHITE/GREEN wire that runs to it
On the Euro-spec bikes the signal flasher looks like this
(cylinder-shaped thin on the left)

Image

Don't be confused about this set-up. A few things are different
on US-bikes; you have the Reserve Lightning System etc.

On early bikes it will look like this:

Image


and on 79-80 bikes like this:

Image


Now connect the WHITE/GREEN wire you just found
to the (separate) RED wire supplied with the kit.
You can do as described in the instructions;
use the push clip, in which case please be careful
using that silly plastic-thing.
To press it together;
use a tool with two 'surfaces'
to press the two sides of the clip together, (no sharp tool)
as 'parallel as possible:

Image


or you connect it by some other mean, like soldering
and protecting the soldering like this:

Image



Now bend down
..remove the points cover
..remove 10 mm bolt

Image



..remove left side screw (this one has an non-original allen bolt)

Image


..remove right side screw

Image


..remove points plate assembly

Image


Remove battery-side-cover.
Find where the original points-wires plugs in.
Roll back that rubber-'sock'
and find two wires:
BLUE/YELLOW
and
YELLOW

Image


Up close it looks like this

Image


Now route the DYNA wires:

Black with YELLOW 'collar'
and
White with BLUE 'collar'

from down where the points were, and follow
the original wire-routing up to next to the battery.

Attach them like this

Image

Those two other wires going into the connectors (and 'down' (on the pic))
you don't need anymore,

They lead down to the condensers:

Image
(which are attached to the side of the battery-box).

Anyway; you don't need them anymore
so unplug them.
Things should look like this now;

Image




(I'm straying away from the DYNA instructions here)
Back down
and remove the points-cam and advance assembly
(you don't really need to do this, but it'll give you a chance
to check if it's OK. Might as well do it. You probably won't
get in there the next many years)[(#) see note at the end of this post]

Image

Move the bob-weights outwards
so you can wiggle/pull out and remove the cam-"sleve"/"tube".
This can be very tricky, but please do not use force!
(picture taken before removal of advance unit)
Image

and replace it with the black plastic signal-unit/rotor that
comes with the Dyna set,
after lubricating the axle/shaft of the advance-unit

You need to get the two cut-outs on the signal-unit/rotor
to come down and let the two weight-'arms' in:
Image
Check that everything moves absolutely freely,
that nothings is stuck, check if springs are OK;
Test by holding the edges of the assembly,
and rotate the black plastic sender unit
so the weights moves outwards
...then let it go.
The springs should freely return the sender unit to the static position.




Now place back the advancer/signal-unit back on the shaft/axle.
Note that there's a slot on the back

Image


which must fit into the little corresponding 'pin'

Image


Now it should look like this

Image


Install the DYNA unit
and screw in the two screws (in this case allen screws) loosely

Image



Attach 10mm bolt and washer

Image




Connect the red DYNA supplied wire
(you ran from the WHITE/GREEN cable)
to the red wire down at the DYNA ignition assembly-wires

Image




AND THAT'S IT!



(*) Note about the resistor:

IF you install the Dyna Hi-Performance Coils
you will NOT use any resistor:

You unplug the two wire to the resistor

Image

(dump the resistor (and the coils))
..then connect those two wire

Image


The Dyna Hi-Performance Coils will mount
in the same place as the standard coils

Image


[(#) Note to the advance mechanism]
As the RPM goes up, the bob-weights moves outwards
because of the centrifugal forces.
This alters the position of the points-cam
(or in case of the Dyna; the black sender unit)
in relation to the shaft on which it is mounted, (and thereby; in relation to the position of the pistons)
See this VIDEO
(could get a nomination for the most boring video on Youtube...ha ha ha)
thereby triggering the ignition earlier and earlier
as the RPM goes up, and is fully advanced at over 2600RPM.
If stuck in that position you'll have faulty ignition timing at anything lower than approx. 2600rpm's.
You don't want that, so please check if your advance mechanism is OK,
as precribed above !



[EDIT: For timing/adjusting please click: DYNA ignition adjustment

.
Last edited by octane on Sun May 06, 2007 5:07 am, edited 15 times in total.
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Post #2 by gladmaker » Sun Apr 08, 2007 6:12 pm

Whoa there now. You've told me step by step how to install it. But you didn't tell me how to time it. :shock:
Oh well, I'll just buy a ticket to the next event. :roll:
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http://www.patriotguard.org/

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1984 GL1200

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Post #3 by Sandy Eggo » Sun Apr 08, 2007 8:21 pm

Great stuff, Octane!
Thanks!
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Post #4 by flicky » Sun Apr 08, 2007 9:31 pm

Awesome!! Thank you!
76 GL1000

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Post #5 by RebelRouser » Mon Apr 09, 2007 1:58 am

Great Work And Awsome Job Here Lars.... Thank You Very Much Bud....
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Post #6 by LesTension » Mon Apr 09, 2007 9:49 am

As usual, Octanes pictorials and explanations are superb.

Cant wait to learn how to time it now!\

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Post #7 by nomados » Sun Apr 15, 2007 6:35 pm

Great tutorial, thanks.
Can anyone tell me what spec that Dyna resistor is? Mine needs replacing and i can't find info on it from Dyna. I'm running stock coils. Sure like the strong spark when it's bypassed but i'd like the coils to last at least another season.
Thanks again.
1975 blue GL1000

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Post #8 by LesTension » Sun Apr 15, 2007 9:32 pm

How much are the reservrd seats for the timing pictorial? I want front row seats! Hope there not sold out.
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Post #9 by octane » Mon Apr 16, 2007 6:49 am

nomados wrote:Great tutorial, thanks.
Can anyone tell me what spec that Dyna resistor is? Mine needs replacing and i can't find info on it from Dyna. I'm running stock coils. Sure like the strong spark when it's bypassed but i'd like the coils to last at least another season.
Thanks again.

Donno, Nomados
..but as I've installed the Dyna Coils as well
I don't need the resisitor any more.

You can have it, if you can wait for the mail from Denmark to reach you.

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Post #10 by nomados » Mon Apr 16, 2007 4:18 pm

Thanks Octane, that's a kind offer. So you still have it eh? Any chance you have an Ohmeter around that you could test that baby and let me know how many ohms it is? I can't find that answer anywhere, and there's lots of conflicting info. My Dyna resistor was the piggy back added to the 3 Ohm OEM ballast. Piggy back was 2 Ohms, and the OEM is 3 ohms so in parallel that equates to 1.2 Ohms. Others say they had 1.5 Ohms, so i'm really curious as to what yours would read. I'd really appreciate it, but i totally understand if you'd rather spend your time tweaking that blower!
Cheers
1975 blue GL1000

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Post #11 by octane » Mon Apr 16, 2007 4:42 pm

No problem

..but the thing is;
my crappy ohm-meter won't measure such a low ohm.
I'll see if I can find someone who has one that will.

Anyway; the offer still stands.
Just PM me you adress.

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Post #12 by nomados » Sun Apr 22, 2007 3:41 am

Thanks but i think she's all sorted out.
Talked to Dyna and they recommended 1.2 ohms, which was what i calculated having before, so that was good enough confirmation for me.
Picked up a standard 1.2 ohm resistor for 8 bucks.
Done.
Thanks again for everything.
Ride time!
1975 blue GL1000

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Post #13 by GL1-242 » Thu Apr 26, 2007 10:04 pm

My bike has 2 ballasts the kit only has 1 how and where do the other 2 wires go?

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Post #14 by nomados » Fri Apr 27, 2007 1:49 am

Can you explain why you have two ballasts? did you already have dyna ignition? my bike had two ballasts also, one was stock 3 ohm, one was Dyna 2 ohm. Wired in parallel, this made 1.2 ohm. If you have a new kit, Dyna only supplies one 1.2 ohm ballast now. In which case your old ballasts would be removed and the single ballast would be installed in their place. If none of this makes sense pics may help if you have some.
Cheers.
1975 blue GL1000

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Post #15 by octane » Fri Apr 27, 2007 2:16 am

GL1-242 wrote:My bike has 2 ballasts the kit only has 1 how and where do the other 2 wires go?l


Just get rid of BOTH your old ballast resistors
and install ONLY the new DYNA resistor.


nomados wrote:..... my bike had two ballasts also, one was stock 3 ohm, one was Dyna 2 ohm. Wired in parallel, this made 1.2 ohm. If you have a new kit, Dyna only supplies one 1.2 ohm ballast now. In which case your old ballasts would be removed and the single ballast would be installed in their place. ..


As in Normados case;
your bike had (or has had at some point) the old DYNA system
where they supplied an extra (2 ohm) resistor
which, as Normado explains, was set up PARRALEL to the original,
thereby giving 1.2 ohms.
(Yes; two resistors set up in parralel will give LESS resistance)


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