The NGW Project Bike.DYNA electronic ignition.How-to INSTALL

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Post by octane »

Thanks Steve (WF) and Robin!
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Post by tlday »

I set the timing according to octane's instructions. The original timing was off a good bit. The bike started and ran pretty good after setting the ignition, but the #2 header got cherry red. I don't think that has anything to do with the timing, but it may. I synchronized the carbs again immediately and the cherry red condition went away, but I'm still not satisfied with the way it runs. It does seem to be better though.
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Post by nuemca »

Octane , I installed the dyna , but now it seems ( although I'm not sure it's carburated related ) I'm running lean , because of the substantial hesitation felt through the mid-range RPM's . All I know is that I have to choke the heck out of it to get it to run better. Could it have something to do with the advance unit , or some other ignition gremlin?
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78 GL 1000
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Post by Roady »

Octane does not come around very often these days. I cannot answer your questions about this but do know that you will get a lot more attention if you post them in the Goldwing Tech Discussions forum.
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question re: wiring red wire


Post by mdclips »

HI - great tutorial - I've got my dyna ignition and coils installed and all is well. However, I noticed that my engine kill switch (on right grip) doesn't function. After looking at the wiring, it seems to me that the red power wire for the ignition unit could be moved to the power feed for the coils, and this would solve that problem, and the kill switch would still function.

The installation instructions for other dyna ignitions call for the connection to be made at the coil power feed (like the CB 500,550,750's).

- I am now editing my original message - after thinking about it, I don't see a problem with wiring the ignition to the switched 12v at the flasher unit. - What I must have done is that when I replaced the coils with the dyna coils and removed the ballast resistor, I must have taken the switch out of the circuit. I go back and hunt it down.

- Editing a third time now... Problem solved. Since the ballast resistor was removed, there is an extra Y-cable that needed to be removed, then the black power feed can be routed through the kill switch - and then to the coils. So it all works as it should.

-However, I still don't understand why you wouldn't wire the ignition unit (red wire) to the power that feeds the coils (after the switch). That way, it would all be off when the kill switch is off, but you could still have power to the rest of the bike. - I may change mine. Any comments?
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