Hydraulic Clutch Conversion Questions

[BigBrian27]

Hello all,

I have a few questions about the hydraulic clutch conversion on my GL1000 and I have been slowly gathering parts.

I currently have the following items;

GL1200 clutch basket
Gl1200 oil pump drive sprocket
GL1200 slave cylinder
GL1200 1984 clutch cover
I am waiting on a push rod for the conversion

My questions are as follows;

1. In addition to the fiber plates for the GL1200, what other plates are needed? Can I use the metal plates from my GL1000 clutch?

2. What do you guys do for electronics? The switches are part of the clutch lever on the GL1000.

Thanks for the help, this is my first time undertaking anything of this magnitude on the clutch side of a motorcycle.

-Brian

[Toehead]

#2: You can use a brake switch banjo bolt, such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Goodridge-Banjo- ... B000GTV0RC (not sure if this is the correct thread pitch)

[BigBrian27]

#2: You can use a brake switch banjo bolt, such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Goodridge-Banjo- ... B000GTV0RC (not sure if this is the correct thread pitch)

That is for the brake side of things. I am asking about the clutch side of things. So that would be the switches for the turn signals, etc.

[Toehead]

I'm saying that you can use it for the clutch side of things as well. The clutch switch activates when the clutch is held, the same as the brake switch. To preserve the clutch switch functionality you need either a pressure activated switch like shown or a master that has a mechanical switch.

for the turn signals, etc, I am not sure. I'll take a look in my parts stash when I get home.

[BigBrian27]

I'm saying that you can use it for the clutch side of things as well. The clutch switch activates when the clutch is held, the same as the brake switch. To preserve the clutch switch functionality you need either a pressure activated switch like shown or a master that has a mechanical switch.

for the turn signals, etc, I am not sure. I'll take a look in my parts stash when I get home.

I'm confused as to why the clutch lever needs a switch.

[CYBORG]

Clutch needs a switch so that you can start the engine when its not in neutral, if you pull in the clutch. A safety thing that keeps you from trying to start the engine when its in gear

[BigBrian27]

Clutch needs a switch so that you can start the engine when its not in neutral, if you pull in the clutch. A safety thing that keeps you from trying to start the engine when its in gear

Oh duh lol slipped my mind there.

Where is the switch on the factory 1975 cable clutch? My wiring diagrams don't show a switch.

[CYBORG]

not sure. I always bypass them

[CYBORG]

normally they are on the lever bracket

[BigBrian27]

not sure. I always bypass them

I found it!

It was also bypassed haha.

[jdvorchak]

FYI I'm pretty sure the brake light switch works backwards from the clutch lever switch. Brake light is Normally Open (NO) and clutch switch is NC (Normal Closed). But verify that as I'm not positive.

[BigBrian27]

FYI I'm pretty sure the brake light switch works backwards from the clutch lever switch. Brake light is Normally Open (NO) and clutch switch is NC (Normal Closed). But verify that as I'm not positive.

Interesting. I will have to check that with my meter, however that does make sense to me.

[Toehead]

Ah shoot, I think you're right.

[BigBrian27]

Yeah it makes sense to me that when you pull the brake lever in it closes the switch to allow power to the brake light circuit.

On the other hand (literally) when the clutch lever is depressed it should let power go to the starter so you can start it. Wouldn't that be a normally open switch just like the brake switch?

[jdvorchak]

I just checked the 1200 wiring diagram and both are Normally Open switches. So go for it.