I'm replacing the seals and bushings on my basket case.
I've got the forks disassembled and the parts on order, but I left the uppers still clamped in the triple trees.
I have a quick question: Is there any reason that I can't fill the forks through the seal prior to driving it on?
I was thinking that I would slide the seal, bushing, backing rings, etc up the fork, bolt on the damper rod to seal the bottom of the fork, pour in my oil, then drive the seal home with split PVC.
The answer to this question determines if I can start reinstalling all the dresser stuff or if I need to wait until my fork seals arrive to do so.
Thanks!
Gl1100 fork seal questions
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- Toehead
- True Blue Steel Biker
- Posts: 2139
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2011 3:10 pm
- Location: Mendon, MA
Gl1100 fork seal questions
2012 Golf TDI, fast and frugal oil burner
1980 CX500C, All around road warrior (Sold)
1975 TS125 (Sold), old smoker
1977 naked GL1000, Highway cruiser
'81 GL1100 14,000 (reconditioned and sold)
'81 GL1100 50,000 miles (under construction)
2X 1981 CM400 beginner bike (sold)
1980 CB750C (sold)
1994 Virago 750 (Wifey's bike)
'76 GL1000 Sulphur Yellow (Megasquirted efi build) http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=59774
1980 CX500C, All around road warrior (Sold)
1975 TS125 (Sold), old smoker
1977 naked GL1000, Highway cruiser
'81 GL1100 14,000 (reconditioned and sold)
'81 GL1100 50,000 miles (under construction)
2X 1981 CM400 beginner bike (sold)
1980 CB750C (sold)
1994 Virago 750 (Wifey's bike)
'76 GL1000 Sulphur Yellow (Megasquirted efi build) http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=59774
- flyin900
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1508
- Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 3:50 pm
- Location: Canada
Re: Gl1100 fork seal questions
It probably could be done yet sometimes driving the slider bushing and the fork seal requires some effort, so it maybe more difficult to really get any purchase on a split PVC pipe if real effort is necessary. You would have to block the forks at the bottom or have the wheel on to stop the sliders from moving when driving in the bushing and seal.
IMO the extra effort to remove the forks is minimal, yet I understand that you want to also start to reassemble the Tupperware on the bike while waiting for the parts. I have done quite a few forks and found sometimes both the slider bushing and the forks seal require a fair bit of persuasion to get them seated correctly.
IMO the extra effort to remove the forks is minimal, yet I understand that you want to also start to reassemble the Tupperware on the bike while waiting for the parts. I have done quite a few forks and found sometimes both the slider bushing and the forks seal require a fair bit of persuasion to get them seated correctly.
Current Bikes:
DISPLAY MODELS:
1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
RIDERS AND FUN TOYS:
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
DISPLAY MODELS:
1966 CL77 - Honda 305cc - Dual purpose - "Gentleman's Scrambler" was a period moniker.
1967 CL175K0 - Low production number with #802 engine serial- winter 2019/2020 full restoration.
1972 CB350F - Baby Four with low mileage - Cosmetic refresh to the next level 2021/2022.
RIDERS AND FUN TOYS:
1978 CB550K - Very original bike with only 7499 Km. from new - light cleanup and refresh done.
1983 CB1100F - Canadian model - DOHC Supersport in pristine low kilometre condition from new.
1984 CX650E - Restored summer 2017 - a rare Eurosport model - excellent one owner bike.
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