1976 GL1000, Red, resto-mod, Keller TX

[acestrom]

After a few weeks of saving for parts and diving deep into these NGW forums, I've got a good start on a long awaited project. At the end of 2016, I had finally done it!! The timing, condition, and deal was just right, and I finally secured what I felt was the sweet spot for remaining life (condition) vs. price - I landed a red '76 GL1000 with 32k miles. I had been dreaming of a 75-77 Wing for many years and there was always something more pressing or critical to fund. Well, I feel blessed, and I'm ready to go!! So, now what??...

Here's the list of TO DO projects on her:
1. Carb rebuild (I purchased the Randakk master kit and DVD)
2. Clean and restore the fuel tank (about to try de-rusting with Sodium Carbonate)
3. Brakes (I must replace the rubber hoses and brake pads)
4. PO changed the handlebars and grips. Left (directional and horn) controls need finishing. Low bars changes a bunch of cable and hose routing.
5. Tach cable needs to be lubbed or replaced.
6. Seat needs re-skinned or replaced (toying with the idea of a more modern or solo seat) SUGGESTIONS WELCOMED
7. Lots of crome and aluminum needs to be re-touched up and polished. (Thinking about polishing the final drive housing too)
8. PO or an owner at some point had some battery issues: rear swing arm, battery tray and frame on left side need black paint touch up.
9. Something is up with the horn, and directionals not working. Not fun - gotta trace some things but figured I would at least replace the flasher relay first.
10. PO says timing belts had been changed 6 months ago. I might just do the belts, water pump and hoses while also flushing and replacing the antifreeze.

Besides those things, once I get her on the road, I just want to drive her and take one day at a time. Just clean and restore as I go. Mods might stop at the handlebars (has bad end mirrors) and solo seat. I really think I will stick with the mechanical points for now, though I want to do the Off-Idle fix that Randakk suggests for the carbs (can anyone please help me source the #105 idle air jet? Or at least a #62 that I can drill out - I'm not crazy about the fill your old ones with solder and drill it. Maybe it's just me and I want a set of 4 "original" to have on hand of the solder/drill deal fails).

So far I've done a bit of mechanical prep for the carb rebuild. #3 carb has a stuck float valve so I went ahead and ordered the rebuild kit. Carbs are off the bike and on the bench, yay! I reset the timing and adjusted the points, and verified the static timing is in spec. I adjusted the valves, and gained a few PSI on a second compression check. While the carbs are out, I removed the rear tire and fender works, took off the final drive and pulled the fuel tank for a bit or electrolysis to get the tank super clean (the carbs will be happiest and thank me).

I accomplished a ton today and I really hadn't thought I would be THAT GUY who takes things down so far!! The bike looks like a skeleton with the back end being so bare, and the middle hollow with no tank or carbs. Basically, I have a shelter full of electrical goods, and an intact front end. And now I know why I see the naked wings so much more naked...

Thanks for all of your wisdom and sharing. This forum is amazingly helpful and is the very ready why not I've had the courage to strip her down this far. Wish me luck, and prayers are welcomed!!

-Andy

[flyin900]

Welcome and you seem to have a bit of work ahead yet you seem to have it well organized. The bike you note is a 76 and you should recheck the specs for the off idle fix on Randakk's site. There is a footnote further down that suggests a slightly different drill size than #62 for that year.
I did the solder set up and it is pretty easy to do.I set a small piece of solder into each jet top and had a pop rivet stub that supported the jet from the bottom in a vise. A quick shot of a propane torch melted the solder and the pop rivet stopped the solder from running out the bottom.
I don't believe the correct size of jet is available new for purchase any more from Honda as Randakk indicates they are discontinued.
Lots of good information on here with the Shop Talk section and the members are quite helpful too.

[acestrom]

Thanks Flyin!!
I appreciate the tip, with the pop rivet stub. Until now, I couldn't visualize the success in the process but now the molten metal won't escape and is more consistent. This helps!!
Yes, I am going for the #105 (should be the new Randakk spec for the 758A carbs from a '76) and found that with my skill set taking another set of #60 or 62 and drilling them out (why #60 or #62? Because those are the secondary jet and might be more common in some rebuild kits as they are in the same family). I would then have the original set, and a new set that if my drilling skills weren't to spec I would have a chance... in theory.
I found this with some digging. Should this be available and able to come to this side of the pond, would it work? Am I making this too complicated??! See attached picture:

[flyin900]

If you can find the right size jets all the better. I used a .60 micro drill bit as the Randakk addendum indicates a .59 as correct, yet my supplier didn't have a .59 only the .60, so I called it good enough.

Take your time with the cleaning and rebuild as these are a little complicated with many jets and passages that must be very clean for the carbs to operate correctly. I also did use Randakk's carb rebuild kit and found the quality excellent.

[acestrom]

Help!!

I found that one of the PO had stripped out a Carb (#4) float bowl screw, and that's no bueno!! Has anyone had this happen, and what did you do? I'm thinking Heli-coil and replace the threads, but I'm concerned with drilling out the hole bigger due to the nearby passages. Has anyone done this? Carb rebuild comes to a screeching halt!!

[ericheath]

Has anyone NOT had this happen? There is room to oversize one mm. I have done that. I buy a stainless steel one and cut my own flutes like a tap thread cutter. It takes steady hands. Not much room for a tap. Many here swear by Timeserts for these. Not cheap. Someone else recently posted using an 8/32 screw in its place.

[acestrom]

Great tips!! Thank you. So, you personally oversized one bolt, 1mm? Do you round out the float bowl cover hole too?

[robin1731]

Please don't put an over sized bolt in it. Best way to repair float bowl screws is with a time-sert. That is all I use on small bolts/screws like that. Go over sized and then what happens when you strip that one? Time-sert is more a permanent repair.

Yes the kits are expensive. And for a one time use may be out of the question. You could send it to someone that has a kit already and have them repair. Even with shipping it would be much less than buying a kit. But it would be fixed right. IMO

Can you see I'm not a fan of going over size on threaded holes? I see it a lot on Kawasaki heads for the cam cap bolts. Guys strip the threads for the 6mm bolt and put a 1/4" bolt in it. Not a good fix.

.

[CYBORG]

fix it right.......time sert

[acestrom]

I'm convinced that Time-serts are the answer. I want it right. It's sad that I found this on re-assembly. I'm going to price the kit (adding to inventory is bad?), and see how bad. I'm not inclined to send these off, but maybe there is a local or regional partner out there that has the resource. It's always a good excuse to talk bikes and fellowship...

[acestrom]

Does this look correct?

TIME-SERT M4 X .70 Metric Thread Repair Kit 1407 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JK44HK/re ... Oyb6E29CJK

[robin1731]

Yes, check how many inserts it comes with. The insert refills are $1.50-$1.60 each. I've done all 4 screws on all 4 carbs in a single rack before. It adds up fast.

.

[acestrom]

Description: About this item
Features -
This is a complete kit including: drill bit, counterboring tool, tap, inserting tool, & 5 inserts!
Length of inserts included in kit: 4.3mm

[rcmatt007]

the nice thing about getting the kit, is when you strip our another one of the other threads, you will already have the kit. I would see if whomever you are ordering from has the separate serts as well, and order some extras at the same time