GL 1100 81'

[Wingersparty]

Hi,

If everything goes well i will buy my self a 1982 Gl1100. I haven't seen it in real life jet just pics that seller sent me online and the bike looks great visually and it has 90K km on a clock. The seller and i live 400km from each other and the sea is between us So i decided to buy it if there isn't any huge mechanical issues and to check that i have to take a ferry trip and i have few hours for inspection at site Due to the fact that my ferry returns at the same day.
So what are the main issues i should be looking at and what are the most critical/expensive parts to repair/restore on gl1100? Any good inspection tips or rule of thumbs for buying a used gl1100?

Thanks

[Whiskerfish]

Gummed up carbs or a bad Stator are probably the 2 biggest reasons these bikes get parked. If she has been sitting you can expect to have to rebuild the carbs, brake systems, tires, so there is some expense if it has not been maintained. For stator testing the base test (non running bike) is done with an Ohm meter. The proper test is done with the bike running and checking the A/C voltage between the three yellow wires. Replacing the stator is an "engine out" evolution.

[Track T 2411]

Whiskerfish has mentioned most of what to look at, and I'll add a few. The stator connector plug often deteriorates (melts) from corrosion. This may or may not indicate additional issues with the stator. The plug is located just in front of the battery box under the left side cover, and connects three yellow wires.
Another area that I would look at closely is the water pump weep hole located directly below and behind the lower radiator hose on the front cover of the engine. If the water pump is bad, it can leak antifreeze and/ or oil from the weep hole. There's typically a visible 'trail' if it's been leaking for a while. Water pump replacement is a fairly straight forward but involved job. The pump can be rebuilt or replaced with new. Cost for parts will run $75 to almost $200 (US) depending.

[Wingersparty]

Thanks for the advice guys . Bought the ferry tickets and we will see at the end of the next week- will there be another GL in my garage or not.

[5speed]

check the cross bar the center stand pivots on for rust as well..and the bottom of the frame.
good luck. I love my 82 1100..

[Wingersparty]

Wooohoooo im a gl1100 owner now. Thanks for the advice guys. At first i will have to get it registered then make a test drive for 200-300km and then full service. Belts, wheels, brakes, fluids, tires.

[Jonesz]

Your new bike looks to be in great condition, CONGRATS! Don't know how old the belts,brakes and tires are but they would be my first on the agenda. Your bikes life depends on updated belts and your life depends on brakes and tires. Don't think I would strike off for 300km before insuring these were in good shape. You may already have info on when they were last replaced and it does look like the previous owner looked after your new bike well.

[Rat]

Unusual aftermarket case guards .... don’t think I’ve seen that type ....

Gord

[Wingersparty]

Well i thought ill get a taste first what needs to be done. The tires threads are ok but they are bit old. Ill have to be more careful i know. The belts are 2-3 years old but i know i have to change them. Maybe ill change them just in case. The bike was inspected in Swedish official inspector last season without any comments.
Overall the the last time the bike ran was 2018 summer and it fired right up today. It idles good but i felt it needs fresh gasoline, carb cleaning and syncronizing and valve job .
Case guards ill remove and install original crabrail. Everything will be as close to original as possible. Maybe the brakes will be upgraded to twin piston set because I have a set from vf750f already..

[5speed]

sweet..it's a standard..looks to be well taken care of.

[Rat]

If it’s an '82 it should have two piston calipers ....

Gord

[Sidecar Bob]

Wooohoooo im a gl1100 owner now. Thanks for the advice guys. At first i will have to get it registered then make a test drive for 200-300km and then full service. Belts, wheels, brakes, fluids, tires.

I think you have that backwards. I would never go farther than I could push it back from until after I had done the full service.

Welcome to the forum. Please add your location to your profile and your bike's model and model year (NOT year first registered) to your signature so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget.

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (you will soon learn that it owns you, not the other way around). Your bike has had 37 years of Previous Owners who may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage. I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel because old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet. Regardless of what the inspector said, the original rubber brake lines should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes (= 5 or 6 years) so start shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid).

[cdwillis]

Looks like it's in real good shape. I paid about $25 for my timing belts. It's well worth the piece of mind even if you think the current belts aren't too bad.

[Explorer]

There is only one way of telling if your timing belts are good to go, or not.

And that is. If you have just changed them out, yourself. Period!

[Sidecar Bob]

That's how you know they are good.

There are 2 ways to tell if they are bad: 1) look for wear as indicated in the FSM and 2) wait for one to break.