'78 GL1000 Martek Ignition

[Stealth126]

I've read all the threads on the forum about Martek ignition systems. I've seen instructions for Yamaha 650 and 4 cylinder Hondas other than the GL1000. My system is hooked up and runs but I had to take it off to change the left side head gasket. I'm trying to static time it based on the other threads and I can't get the light to come on at all. Are there certain ones that need to be timed with a light while running? Also according to the instructions for 750 Honda the rotor should spring 20 degrees clockwise and spring back. Mine flexes 20 degrees counterclockwise and springs back. Does that mean the timing advance is on wrong? Or is the GL1000 opposite of all the other 4 cylinder Hondas? (I doubt that) Also, in previous posts it looks like guys were looking for pictures if how to set up the wiring. Mine is hooked up and runs and I'd be happy to take some pictures for anybody that still uses or wants to use an old Martek.

[Whiskerfish]

I can not answer all your questions but when adjusting the timing make sure the kill switch and ignition are both in the run positions or you will never get a light.

[Stealth126]

That's a start. I'll reconfirm.

[Stealth126]

I know I had the key on, but I'm not sure about the kill switch.

[Stealth126]

You were right Whiskerfish. Once I turned all the switches on and found the right wires, it was easy to get timed. I also used an All Balls repair kit to fix the leaky petcock. This thing runs like a dream. Only need to synchronize the carbs. Then engine work will be done.

[Whiskerfish]

[Fred Camper]

But does not the 4 cylinder opposed engine look more like a two cylinder in terms of timing since it fired two cylinders at a time?

[Stealth126]

I don't know Fred. I've never owned or worked on a two cylinder. But I guess there were only two adjustments to be made.

[Sidecar Bob]

That's what they call the "wasted spark" system - the plugs fire at TDC compression and TDC exhaust so the spark on exhaust is wasted. I believe that until things like the Big Bang firing order (& the crankshaft designs necessary for that to work) came along most inline 4 cylinder bike engines used the same system and were basically similar to a GoldWing engine except with the cylinders folded up into the same plane (and usually turned sideways in the frame).
Of course, a boxer 4 has perfect primary & secondary balance so an inline 4 requires a heavy balance shaft before it can even approach the smoothness of the boxer but that's another story.....

[Stealth126]

Earlier in this post I made the comment that it ran like a dream. That was true at idle before it warmed up. When exhaust warmed it popped. Plug 1 was always bright white and clean. Plug 2 was always on the edge of fouling. 3 and 4 looked decent. Tried adjusting idle fuel screws until plug 1 was at 3.5 turns out. Plug 2 got all the way down to .25 turns out. Still popping. So I decided to start over. First I watched videos and read articles to make sure I was accurately setting valve clearance. I had it set so loose that my .005 feeler would fit pretty easily. So I readjusted that. Then it didn't idle as well and stalled sometimes when the fan came on. I posted on the forum here and the suggestion was that my battery was weak. And it was. So I charged it full. Didn't stall any more but still ran rough compared to before. So I decided to recheck the timing. Here's the real treat that I still don't understand. This Martek unit seems to be some kind of composite material with 2 contact points on it. It simply spins on the end of the camshaft and meets up with 2 stationary points that you can rotate and adjust just like a points plate. But you can only make 1 adjustment. No secondary adjustment for cylinders 3 and 4. This thing was so touchy that it took me 2.5 hours to get it where it's set now and it still idles a little rough, but pops less. It still does pop some. So this is how it's set: F1 first rotation about 11° before TDC, or 1° before the F1 mark. F1 second rotation 7° before TDC. F2 first rotation 11° before TDC. F2 second rotation 9° before TDC. As you can see I did my best to "split the difference". First question: Is this the optimum way for me to set this up with current equipment? Or should I set it up for everything to fire earlier or later? So I don't do any damage? I will buy a points plate and set that up but my wife has me on a spending freeze until we get past the quarantine.

[Stealth126]

I've been trying to ride around the block and then check the plugs to adjust the fuel mixture screws, but that plan is junk because now I know that one cylinder is firing late and no amount of adjusting is going to clear up that plug. I don't have a tach other than the one on the bike. Is it worth it to try to do idle drop with nothing but the bike tach?

[rcmatt007]

I think I have a jar full of those wasted sparks somewhere out in the shop. Just couldn't see them just thrown away

[pidjones]

"Fuel mixture screws"? If you mean the Pilot screws, they have little effect except at idle. And carb balance should be set at idle, also.

[Fred Camper]

Keep in mind electronic ignition cannot do well low on voltage. Just a blinker on would make my Dyna electronic ignition to miss until I moved the power wire to a relay. The ignition switch on mine would drop about 1V below the battery with loads on. No more miss since the ignition got full battery volts.

[Stealth126]

Okay. I'll keep it charged up. I'm still trying to figure out the mixture but it is idling well.