Buggered rear brake line

[sphen]

while taking apart the rear brake assembly, the nut that holds one of the brake lines to the MC cammed out, so now i cant get the connector out. I was needing to rebuild or replace the MC anyway, but my question is - since I have to replace the line anyway, is it prudent to replace those rigid lines with like kind, or can they be replaced with conventional brake line? The only issue i can see would be making sure there is clearance somewhere for the lines to be routed.

[5speed]

what year bike?
My 76 has conventional steel line running from the master cylinder to the other side of the swing arm. It hooked to a flex line (runner hose) there.

[pjlogue]

I replaced my rear lines on my '76 GL1000. I ran on braided Teflon line from the MC to the caliper with 90 degree banjos on both ends of the line.

I had a similar situation with having the connecting nut for the brake line round off. You can apply heat to the nut (torch) and MC and spray/soak with liquid wrench. Do this several times and on the last heating put the nut in a vice (don't crush it) and try and work it loose.

-P.

[sphen]

mine is a 1986. The routing seems tight for the hard line that runs back to the front caliper, but i think it could be made to work. or i can just ebay a new (old) line.

[Sidecar Bob]

I replaced the whole thing with a stainless braided line in '97 and haven't had to worry about it since.

I believe I had a stainless braided line on the '77 before that but I don't have any pics and that was a long time ago so I'm not 100% sure.

[sphen]

Interesting. So you replaced the hard lines with braided? Once I lay this out I’ll take some measurements and see if I can get some made to fit.

[Sidecar Bob]

Before I learned about vacuum bleeding I used to have a hard time getting all the bubbles out. I figured replacing it with one continuous line would reduce the places for bubbles to collect.

IIRC, you have to remove a fitting inside the master cylinder's output port.