Broken trans cover bolt = infinite sadness…please help

[thompson145]

Whelp, Back in June I noticed an oil/water mix leaking out of the weep hole and thought the water pump may be going bad. Got in to take a look and sure enough, the fins had a fair amount play to them. I’d read online that the transmission cover bolts could be a bear to get off so I applied PB blaster and they’ve been sitting/soaking until last weekend (I moved from Denver to Grand Junction in the meantime). 8 of them came off no problem at all. The 9th one tho…well no such luck. I read the Randak post and tried the bingo method of tapping it then using a manual impact wrench. I took a torch to it and still no. I used a Dremel bit to cut a flat head slot and still couldn’t get it loose. I finally just cut the whole head off and at least got the transmission cover off. I then took vise grips to the bolt stud and it turned a bit before just shearing off entirely, so now I just had a stuck stud in the case. I tried an Easy Out extractor but that did absolutely nothing.

I’ll just say I’m a “little frustrated”.

It’s the bolt at the top and far right (as looking head on). I’m out of ideas. I assume I’m going to have to drop the entire engine to ever have a chance of getting it out, am I right?

[thompson145]

F667D114-0FD9-40B7-BF92-CB64BF8BF4B6.jpeg

there it is

[pidjones]

Look at it this way. By pulling the engine, you can clean and repaint the cases, freshen the drive shaft, touch-up or maybe even fully repaint the frame.

[thompson145]

Look at it this way. By pulling the engine, you can clean and repaint the cases, freshen the drive shaft, touch-up or maybe even fully repaint the frame.

That’s actually a super positive outlook, might have to do that. It’s fairly cherry as is tho:

[Lucien Harpress]

Truth be told, apart from a few bits here and there (clutch cable, driveshaft u-joint, maybe the gas tank) pulling the engine on these is quite a bit easier than on a lot of other bikes. The removable subframe means you can pretty much get a lift under the block, unbolt it, and wheel it out sideways.

It's a lot to undo, sure. But none of it is particularly hard.

[cfairweather]

I have taken an engine out and replaced a broken starter chain and then installed the engine in one day. I had a helper but it wasn't too bad. Before you go to all this trouble, try a couple of things:

I would try the following if the screw still looks like the above picture:
1. Get a Dremel cutting wheel and wear it down to a tiny wheel. Then very carefully, cut a slot in the broken off screw so you can use a screwdriver on it later in this procedure.
2. Notice on this particular screw that there is a small hole on the rear. If not, drill a tiny hole from the rear so you can spray penetrating oil from the rear side of the screw. Spray penetrating oil from the front side too.
3. Get a heat gun and heat up case where the screw is located. Get it hot and spray more lubricant from the front and rear.
4. Try turning the screw now. Since you got it to turn a bit earlier, you might try turning it clockwise a bit before turning it counterclockwise. Working it back and forth will loosen it and allow oil to get further into the threads.

I think you can get it out. One final idea...
If this doesn't work and you are very careful, you could try using a welder and weld an extension bolt to the screw. You could cut the end down where it fits in the slot and then weld it. The heat from the welder works wonders on getting screws out. Be sure to protect the case or the welder will damage it.

[flyin900]

Since the removable frame section is on that side it may when removed allow you to get a better angle on the broken stub. As noted above the heat and penetrating fluids can work wonders to help in removing it. I have used reverse drill bits, that once they bite into the broken stub along with the heat and penetrating fluid just spins the broken stub out.

[5speed]

another suggestion from the cheap seats.
put the trans cover back on with a few bolts to snug it up.
get a piece of copper tube that is a snug fit in the hole with the broken bolt.
tape it in so it seats around the shank of the bolt.
build up weld on the broken bolt until you get it tall enough to get vice grips on.
the trans cover will keep the weld splatter out of places it shouldn't be and the copper tube will prevent the weld from sticking to the trans cover. make sure you get it nice and tight around the broken bolt.
the heat from the welder should free it up.

like this

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Yeah, there's always one, y'know...?

FWIW, I'd go the welding route like 5Speed says - "build up weld on the broken bolt until you get it tall enough to get vice grips on." Weld a nut onto the end of that built-up portion so you can get a grip on it, too. and although I've never done it, it looks easy enough to pop out that section of the subframe. Just an idea.

Nice ride, btw; where's that view?

[cfairweather]

I think 5Speed's method is a great idea. One caution, go slow and don't get it too hot because you can easily melt the aluminum and then you will need an engine.

[Sagebrush]

There are a million youtube videos on how to remove a broken bolt. I would look at a few and see if I found one that you are comfortable with equipped for.

[thompson145]

Yeah, there's always one, y'know...?

Nice ride, btw; where's that view?

It’s the road up to Mount Evans, highest paved road in N America.

Thanks for all the suggestions, will give it a shot with the welder…

[CYBORG]

been there. nice ride up the hill

[Whiskerfish]

SNIP

Thanks for all the suggestions, will give it a shot with the welder…

One of the things I learned with the busted bolts on hemi exhaust manifolds is once you have some weld built up work it in extremely small amounts. Also as that bolt is not likely to be bottomed out so try to break it loose in the tightening direction. Even just a hair of a turn then apply your favorite penetrant and continue to move it in very small increments.

[redglbx]

Is there some reason for not center punching that bolt, then using a center drill to get a good straight hole started and then follow up with a left hand drill, drill the bolt through and keep adding some PB-Blaster/Kroil, finally use a good QUALITY EZ-out , along with maybe some light heat on the outside of the bolt boss from a Bernz-o-matic torch ? That’s how I’d do it. What am I missing here ?

Edit: I see it now, still in the frame, might be able to use a right angle drill or die grinder to drill it.