1998 Valkyrie

[Apinkston]

I've been doing some shopping around, and it seems that the starter relays I have aren't even the proper one for this bike. The ones I have contain a 4 pin connector and a 30 amp fuse which the connector on the wiring harness fits perfectly. Then there are two metal nodes to take power from the battery and to the starter. That seems like its right, but when I look up the relay by the part number I get something that just looks like a black box with a 4 pin connector. No fuse and no nodes to attach the thick power wires. I already ordered a new relay that's like the ones I have, but if this other one is really the proper relay I'd like to get it. I just don't see how it would actually work.

[wingrider]

Odd question, it is the middle cover in place that is where the side covers attach to it? This would also be where the key is placed to get the seat off.

[Apinkston]

It might be better to provide links to the items I am looking at. This link is to the 'proper' starter relay https://www.amazon.com/DB-Electrical-SM ... hdGY&psc=1
And this is the link to the kind of starter relay I currently have https://www.amazon.com/Starter-Solenoid ... r=8-2&th=1
I recognize the second one is not listed to fit the gl1500, however with the first one I do not see where the power wires from the battery or to the starter would go

[Fred Camper]

The upper part does clearly say it fits a Valk and it is also affordable. Other Honda reviewer say it is a plug in.
The lower part seems to get bad reviews.

[Apinkston]

I went ahead and ordered that one too just to be safe. Both will arrive on Saturday, I guess that's when I'll find out for myself how the starter will actually receive power from the switch.

[wingrider]

Odd question, it is the middle cover in place that is where the side covers attach to it? This would also be where the key is placed to get the seat off.

If that cover has been removed, there is a good chance the “tip over” switch is misaligned….which was why I was asking. That will cut your spark.

[Apinkston]

That makes sense, the manual didn’t mention anything about that, but I think that cover has been messed with. The whole wiring harness looks like it’s been pulled as far out as it can without completely removing it. I’ll be out there tomorrow to work on it and can check it then. If possible I might bridge that connector to force it to read good. Since I got keys now I can unlock it and fix it, unless it happens to be a different key.

[wingrider]

Good deal. Hope that it is that simple.

[Lucien Harpress]

Yup, that tip-over switch got me the first time I messed with that center cover too. I forget if the bike will crank with the tip-switch tripped, or if it kills your starter too. Either way, it was a fun learning experience when it was my first bike that had one.

[sgwilly]

I’ve replaced my starter relay and it looks like the second picture with the big wire leads for the battery. BUT, I once got one of them with the the wire posts reversed which made it impossible to set into position. I eventually ordered from either a Honda parts dealer or maybe Partzilla to make sure I got the right one.

[Apinkston]

Welp, you guys were right. It was the bank angle sensor. It was still secured tightly so I disconnected it and hotwired that connector and now I can spin the starter with the button. That first starter relay I posted a link to is nowhere near the right one btw. Whole system wouldn’t work with that one in but the second one I linked works great. Now I gotta figure out why I don’t have any spark.

[Apinkston]

Ignition pulse generator tests at 0.7 without cranking and 1.4v when cranking. Doesn’t change throughout the harness. Coils test at 12v without cranking and 7v with cranking. No spark and no change in values with or without a icm. Can’t find anything on testing the icm in the manual but I believe that part is bad, or all of the ignition coils are bad. Plenty more research to do

[sgwilly]

IMG_1611.jpeg (172.89 KiB) Viewed 437 times

That relay puts power not only to the starter, but the whole ignition system - that’s why the posts need to be on the correct side. Check your solenoid for which side the the B post is on.

[Apinkston]

The solenoid is hooked up properly. I got power to the whole system. Side stand light, oil light, neutral light, and after plugging in my second icm I got spark in 4 out of 6 cylinders. 5 and 6 have no spark so I need to buy a new ignition coil and then I should be able to get it running

[sgwilly]

Sounds good.