Main Fuse and wiring

[Whiskerfish]

Several threads lately about Intermittent power problems. The Factory Main Fuse is refered to as a "dog bone" fuse seen in the gray rectangle in the picture below from the manual. It is rated for 30 AMPS.




The Problem is that many look like this or worse!!



Where is it you might ask!! Well it is not there. Apparently the Previous owner had a problem and he just took it out and ran the entire bike without a fuse. That results in things like this



Notice the charred wires and the melted connector. This bike was very close to a electrical fire or at a minimum burning out the rectifier and stator.


So the solution is cheap and easy to do. I have a picture of a completed one but unfortunately I do not have any pics of the process.




The process is very simple. Cut out the entire Fuse assembly and replace it with a modern 30 amp mini fuse. The holders with wires attached are just a few dollars at most any Auto parts stores. Crimp a terminal on the end that attaches to the Starter Relay and preferably use solder to attach the other end to the main power line (a crimp type butt splice will do if you do not have the equipment/ skills to do a proper soldering job). I used solder then heatshrink then for additional peace of mind I wrapped it in electrical tape. It looks good, works great, and if you ever do have a problem these type of fuses are available and at gas stations or auto parts stores.

[dps3006]

I just got around to looking at my main fuse the other day. What I found was no fuse.....just a piece of bare wire jumped between where the fuse should have been. I already have the blade type fuse holder and will install before starting the bike again; which may be a while up here in cold, snowy Buffalo, NY.

[heraldhamster]

huh, so I've got a 30amp spade fuse installed inline on the one in Eugene. I guess I can get rid of those spare dog bones. I've been wondering what they were for. I'll have to check the '79 and see.

thanks WF!

...jm.

[Cookie]

A good simple process. I like circuit breakers too. You can velcro a little fuse box somewhere convenient with a spare.
BMW types don't have all the room a wing does so I put a spare fuse box in the headlight shell like in this picture. You could probably put a spare next to the battery.

http://www.changjiangunlimited.com/tb2044.htm

[ElPiloto]

If your local auto parts store doesn't stock the weatherproof inline fuse holder for high amp spade fuses, try your local car audio installation shop. They always have a nice selection of fuses and breakers.

[mooseheadm5]

Well that answers my question about what it should look like. So, did you just do away with the burnt connectors altogether and solder them together at the other end of the fuse? I need to do just that. Wire nuts unprotected from the weather... dumb. What's black and crusty and hangs from the ceiling?



Amature electrician.

[Whiskerfish]

So, did you just do away with the burnt connectors altogether and solder them together at the other end of the fuse?

Yes that is exactly what I did.

[rcmatt007]

so I admit.... to get home after my dogbone "screwed the pooch" I hard wired the puppy, and then put in the spade like you suggest, and threw the old one in the liter (anymore puns to add?) oh yes, when it went out getting off the freeway it was a real b*tch hot wiring it byt the side of the road

great "how to"

[Cookie]

I was asked to post on a breaker installation and I picked one up at after work. I think there is a better type for you guys though that would install easier. I'll try to get one of those tomorrow.

[Sidecar Bob]

Here's how I do it:



The fuse holder's leads are cut short enough to reach the original screws without flopping around and small ring lugs are crimped onto their ends. The ends of the fuse lid are cut out so that it can close over the lugs.

[Whiskerfish]

Here's how I do it:

That looks very nice. That is an 1100 setup correct??

[Cookie]

To see what would be involved with a bolt on circuit breaker I picked up a 30 amp today, hot doggies it's made in USA! I'll post a link to my photobucket account since I haven't figured out exactly how to do this right.
One picture shows several sizes of fuse and breakers from a train to the current ones. On my red bike in the end I'll use the small breaker and change terminals to slide ons.
The large breaker is the type we have used for years in commercial vehicles. You can trim it way down by removing the mounting tabs or just one of them and shortening the terminal mount screws sine we are only going to use one ring terminal on each end. I've seen these with so many rings you could barely get the nut on. Just make sure you insulate it with tape or whatever pleases you.
I did find out you have to either drill out the bike's ring terminals or cahnge them to ones that fit the breaker.

http://s225.photobucket.com/albums/dd310/cookr1/

[mooseheadm5]

Napa has circuit breakers that fit into blade type fuse holders, both resetting and non resetting types.

[Sidecar Bob]

That looks very nice. That is an 1100 setup correct??

It's the 650, but any Honda with the fuse on the starter solenoid can be done the same way.

That solenoid originally came from the Nighthawk - I figured why bother doing the one that was on the 650 when I was scrapping the NH anyway?

[Cookie]

I've also seen ones that fit into the old round fuse holders, they may be antique now since most cars have used blades for a while.
It seems like 30 amps is a lot for a bike but that is what the original was marked. I'll probably try 20 amps to start with since I don't expect a big load and I'd rather trip a breaker than fry a wire.