I bought a stainless engine screw and bolt set from STAINLESS CYCLE. They have a store on eBay and a website at WWW.STAINLESSCYCLE.COM. They are moving their entire operation to another state, but they still got the GL1000 set to me in a day or two over two weeks.
Cost was right at $60 and the quality is very good.
I've been piece mealing mine from the local fastener outfit about $5-$10 at a time. that usually gives a good handful of steel to play with for an hour or so... fighting the old ones out and anti-seizing the new ones.
but then I'm doing two bikes, too. it'll prolly cost more in the long run but this is how it's gotta be fer now.
sorta bulldogged custom 1978 GL1000 - "geekster"
full Vetter dress 1979 GL1000 - "Barge" (currently down)
1986 1200 Aspencade - "Heart of Gold" - daily rider
1990 1500 Aspencade - It's ALIVE! but very, very naked. not in a good way.
1978 for $100 - project in worx
1978 from a previous member here - taking up space
my original '79 bought in '91 - replacing engine (eventually, maybe someday)
added an '05 1800 to the stable, all the rest gotta go
H2G2=42
A competent and self-confident person is incapable of jealousy in anything. Jealousy is invariably a symptom of neurotic insecurity. ~ Robert A. Heinlein
The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it. ~ Neil deGrasse Tyson
Excellent stuff.
All the hard work done for you with the parts neatly bagged in separate lots so you can't make a mistake as to what goes where and a website that shows the location of each and every screw.
This is way things should be done!
Not the cheapest way of doing things but I am totally happy to pay that bit extra for this kind of service.
Edit:- Just realised this is the same supplier as used by Octane.
"Impossible Is Just a Level of Difficulty!..." If I'd wanted you to understand, I would have explained it better! (Johann Cruyff) I’d give my right arm to be ambidextrous!
It's a good idea to run a bottoming tap into the threads in aluminum. This will remove any corrosion and old anti-seize. You won't be cutting any new threads, just removing the crud. Blow out the threads after using the tap.
Bottoming taps are hard to find and expensive if you do find them. I bought a cheap set from Harbor Freight and ground off the tapered part on the end of the taps to make a crude, but effective, bottoming tap.
Kaopectate makes a good high temperature anti-seize. The kaolin clay is the anti-seize and the pectin helps to hold the kaolin in place until it dries.