$1500 reasonable for this CX500?

[Sagebrush]

Does this seem to be a reasonable asking price for this CX500 that appears to be in great shape? http://raleigh.craigslist.org/mcy/1632633362.html

[winston]

The words "exceptional" and "perfect" support a strong price.

But it only has "good" tires and brakes, so I think he really thinks the bike's worth a grand and if he can get $1200 he's taking his wife somewhere fancy to eat grilled cow.

$1300 and he might kiss you.

Then again, I know absolutely nothing about market pricing there....here, any bike that runs and has a valid government Inspection sticker is worth $1000-$1500.

But my gut says he's asking 15 hoping for 12 and the word "good" is his guilty conscience talking, because he knows you'll have to spend 200-300 on it soon, which is why it's really a 900-1000$ bike.

[robin1731]

According to Kelley Blue Book that bike has a retail value of under $1000 in my area. It could be more in your area. I use KBB when I am looking at used bikes. Usually trade in value.

[Oldewing]

I use the international value of ........................

One US dollar per CC, unless perfect and deal from there.

[sunnbobb]

I have had one of these bikes before and have followed them for quite some time. I would only pay $950 for one in good shape.

[Sidecar Bob]

It depends on how good the bike actually is. It's in Raleigh Kijiji so if the seller's name is Charles and his dad's name was Dick it could be worth that much (Chopper Charles is going through Dick's bikes and fixing up some of them for sale).

I would check everything and start making deductions from the asking based on what you will have to spend on it. Rubber brake line? The brakes need to be done - $100 for lines, pads, rubber parts. Read the date codes on the tires - over 5 years old? $300 for tires + labour. Can you see fresh gasket between the rear cover & the block? If not you will probably need to do the camchain & guides ($125), stator ($125?) and mechanical seal ($25) + another $50 or so for seals & gaskets. Not to mention the possibility of CDI failure.

Unless I knew that the camchain, stator &c had all been done properly within the last few years and the tires were new and the brakes had been done properly I wouldn't spend more than $750 on it and it would have to look perfect in person for that much.

On the other hand, if it looks good and everything I mentioned has been done and the tires are good it would be worth closer to $2,000.

[Rat]

Bob's covered it.

The mileage is not a big deal on these.

If maintained they run forever.

Gord (Maybe 1000) Jones

[ke4cap]

How 'bout this one Sagebrush? Not mine, but I saw it on CL.

http://bham.craigslist.org/mcy/1634404893.html

[Sidecar Bob]

This one is a GL500. Unless you have to have the twin shocks, a GL is probably a better bet.

CX500s have CDI triggered by extra coils on the stator. The coils and the CDI boxes are probe to failure.
GL500s & CX/GL650s have a regular 3 phase stator and dependable TPI ignition like the GL1100. Their stators fail about as often as the average bike (not that often) and can be easily upgraded by using a GL1000/1100 stator (I have one in my 650).

I would go inwith the same list (- the CDI & stator and probably the tires)(check the date codes anyway - they could have been new when he stopped using it 10 years ago).

The topbox + rear seat is a bonus. If you don't already know, the boxes were an option for the standard model. They came in a short version (like this bike has) and a tall version and mounted in place of the back seat. (I'm pretty sure the tall version came with the Interstate package)

A few more things to keep an eye out for on these bikes:
- Look on the left side of the engine near the back, below the chromed coolant transfer pipe for signs of wetness (anti-freeze). If it is wet or you see dried deposits that match the coolant the mechanical seal probably needs to be replaced.
- Look on the right side of the engine near the back for signs of oil. The 500s' camchain tension is adjusted by loosening a bolt that protrudes through the rear cover near the big cap for looking at the timing marks. There is an o-ring on the bolt to keep the oil in and sometimes they fail. To replace the o-ring you have to drop the engine and pull the rear cover. The engines come out of these bikes more easily than anything else I've worked on, butit's still a big job for a $0.50 part and you might be able to leverage the price down a bit....
(If the o-ring is leaking and you buy it, adjust the chain, tighten the bolt and fill the groove around the head with high temp silicone. You will have to pick the silicone out and replace it every tme you adjustthe camchain, but it will hold it until you have to take the engine out for something else.)
- For some unknown reason, the transmission (front) cover gasket sometimes pulls into the engine at the top right corner. It can be fixed with the engine in the frame, but when it happens it sprays oil all over your right shin & boot and makes a mess of the bike.

[the chef]

Thanks muchly Sidecar Bob!!!

I am leaning toward one but I have to go look at that gl 1100 and decide.
The owner of this gl 500 says he rides it at least once a week but is a daily driver . New fork seals too. Tank looks shiney but he says it has a small knee dent , so it may have been wrecked . I will look for frame damage , leakage and new parts and stuff.