handlebars
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- Zinc Member
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handlebars
Well, I'm getting close enough to riding my bike that the little things holding me up are starting to really p#$$ me off.
I was going to use a different turn signal/horn button, but don't want to end up using a different clutch lever than what's on my stock master cylinder (the switch housing holds the clutch lever on the stock GL 1000, so I'd have to get a different clutch lever mount...).
Then I decided to use the original switch, but the drag bars I bought are not drilled for internal wiring, and I cannot use the original switch housing unless it's internal; the wiring comes up through where the housing mounts on the bars if I try, and that won't work. So I put a hole in the bottom of the bar where the swirtch mounts, but the bloody wiring harness is so huge I fear I'll have to make a hole the size of a quarter to get the damn thing through.
What did others who have mounted aftermarket bars do about the turn signal housing/wiring?
I was going to use a different turn signal/horn button, but don't want to end up using a different clutch lever than what's on my stock master cylinder (the switch housing holds the clutch lever on the stock GL 1000, so I'd have to get a different clutch lever mount...).
Then I decided to use the original switch, but the drag bars I bought are not drilled for internal wiring, and I cannot use the original switch housing unless it's internal; the wiring comes up through where the housing mounts on the bars if I try, and that won't work. So I put a hole in the bottom of the bar where the swirtch mounts, but the bloody wiring harness is so huge I fear I'll have to make a hole the size of a quarter to get the damn thing through.
What did others who have mounted aftermarket bars do about the turn signal housing/wiring?
- Bandanna
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hi wannabe
if you have drilled the hole,then cut off the wiring block,leaving enough wire to re-solder together.
take a length of wire,and pass it through the holes you have made.
(one at the bar end,and one in the middle between the risers)
tape the cut wires to the length of wire,and draw through to the centre hole+down into the headlight.(i am assuming the block goes in there)
cut lengths of shrink tubing to length,and fit to the cut wires.
re-=solder the block to the cut wires,then using a heatgun/hairdryer, shrink the tubing over the soldered joint.............
job done my friend.........
if you have drilled the hole,then cut off the wiring block,leaving enough wire to re-solder together.
take a length of wire,and pass it through the holes you have made.
(one at the bar end,and one in the middle between the risers)
tape the cut wires to the length of wire,and draw through to the centre hole+down into the headlight.(i am assuming the block goes in there)
cut lengths of shrink tubing to length,and fit to the cut wires.
re-=solder the block to the cut wires,then using a heatgun/hairdryer, shrink the tubing over the soldered joint.............
job done my friend.........
YOU ARE WHAT YOU RIDE......THAT MAKES ME AN ANGEL????
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No block to pass, it's just the sheer number of wires in the harness that has to go through the bar holes (I think it's like eight) that is causing the problem. I pulled it out of handlebars that were on the bike when I bought it (not original) and remember thinking, damn, how the hell did they get this in, and how am I going to repeat the feat? It was a bitch to pull out.
- Frenchy
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You don't have to use the hand controls to have your clutch lever match. I'm going by memory, & it's early, so bear with me. I think it was the 75, & early 76's that had the switch housing & clutch lever as one unit. After that the switch housing was a seperate unit from the clutch lever (which includes the mirror mount).
Also, what I've seen some people do for the hand control wires, is to notch the coltrol, & run the wites on the outside of the bars.
Also, what I've seen some people do for the hand control wires, is to notch the coltrol, & run the wites on the outside of the bars.
Frenchy
- alan hawke
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Re: handlebars
[Hi Wannabe
I have a 75 gl1000 that i changed the bars on ,i've done what frenchy suggested ,no problem's, notched it and run wires externally .Used a couple of small zip ties to hold wires in place neatly on under side of bars hardly noticable.
Alan. ngw
I have a 75 gl1000 that i changed the bars on ,i've done what frenchy suggested ,no problem's, notched it and run wires externally .Used a couple of small zip ties to hold wires in place neatly on under side of bars hardly noticable.
Alan. ngw
Alan

1975 GL1000
1976 GL1000
2000 ZX6R KAWASAKI
2009 vn1700 kawasaki classic

1975 GL1000
1976 GL1000
2000 ZX6R KAWASAKI
2009 vn1700 kawasaki classic
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[quote="Frenchy"]You don't have to use the hand controls to have your clutch lever match. I'm going by memory, & it's early, so bear with me. I think it was the 75, & early 76's that had the switch housing & clutch lever as one unit. After that the switch housing was a seperate unit from the clutch lever (which includes the mirror mount). [quote]
True, but in order to find a set of levers to match, I'd also have to get a matching master cylinder unit, since the levers changed when they went to the new style clutch mount. I tried that one
True, but in order to find a set of levers to match, I'd also have to get a matching master cylinder unit, since the levers changed when they went to the new style clutch mount. I tried that one

- Frenchy
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- Zryder
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