40 Build

[sunnbobb]

The Hastings rings were all up to spec, so no filing needed to be done.

That there is good info.

[robin1731]

snip.....
The Hastings rings were all up to spec, so no filing needed to be done.

To me I'd rather have to file them. Get a better exact fit that way. What kind of gap did you have for each ring?

[pierce]

snip.....
The Hastings rings were all up to spec, so no filing needed to be done.

To me I'd rather have to file them. Get a better exact fit that way. What kind of gap did you have for each ring?

They were all between .010 - .014 (compression). Most somewhere right in the middle. I really just checked that they were within spec. So, no smaller than .010, and no larger than .016.

I do not like any extra work. occoms razor (cheaper, no worK > more expensive, work)

[Fred Camper]

but wrenching is our sport...

[robin1731]

snip.......
They were all between .010 - .014 (compression). Most somewhere right in the middle. I really just checked that they were within spec. So, no smaller than .010, and no larger than .016.

I do not like any extra work. occoms razor (cheaper, no worK > more expensive, work)

The .010 is a little tight. Most manufactureres recommend .004" per inch of bore. 2nd ring .005" per inch. All oil rings should .015". With a 2.8" bore that would be about .011-.012 for the top. .013-.014 for the 2nd. And then the .015 for the oil rings. Better to be a little on the loose side when fitting rings. Too tight can cause damage. Too loose may just blow a little smoke.

These numbers are for a stock type street engine. Modified engines and blown/turbo/nitrous engines are different.

[pierce]

I am just going by the manual. .010 - .016.

However, this could probably discussed to no end as I am positive there are many strong opinions out there. Me, I don't really have that strong of an opinion one way or the other so long as it is within service limit specs.

[Fred Camper]

but think of the kittens...

[pierce]

.... and to get somewhat back on track!

After the rings are installed coat them and the cylinder lightly with oil. I always have used ATF, but thats just me.

coat pistons.jpg

The two pistons that are inserted in the right case have no oil holes/jets in the journals. Verify this.

no oil hole.jpg

Then place a piston ring compressor over the rings and tighten.

piston ring compressor.jpg

[pierce]

Their is an oil hole on the piston rod, this should point towards the top of the engine (face up).

oil hole points up.jpg

Then insert the piston into the cylinder (with correct orientation/oil hole up) and tap it into the cylinder. Make sure to protect the cylinder and journals and such from the end of the rod. You can easily damage the walls with the bolt end so take care.

[pierce]

Here it is inserted all the way into the cylinder.

tap piston in.jpg

Then make sure the journals are well greased, and tighten them down.

tighten up.jpg

[Old Fogey]

For clumsy folk like me, it's very easy to mark the crank journals with the rod bolts. So best cover them up with some tubing like this, before dropping the rod into the cases.

bolt covers (Medium).jpg

[Fred Camper]

Me too Old Fogey, rubber or silicon tube is important.

[pierce]

Joining the cases is mechanically a very straightforward process. Lube the rings on cylinders 2 and 4, do the same with the cylinder walls, and then rotate the crank until cylinder 4 is fully out, and 2 is fully in. Then prop cylinder 4 up and slide the case over the top, then gently slide the case half down and do the same with cylinder 2. Make sure to use a light coat of sealer on both sides of the case and then button it up.

However! It can be a pain.

These are the things that I did to help, and things went very easy. Got it on the first try, and was done in about 10 minutes.

Use hose clamps around the rings ala Thunderchild:

http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 49#p368049

I found it easy to leave a slight lip at the top of the cylinder so it entered the cylinder a bit easier. I also tightened them loosely around the rings, not tightly. This allowed for the clamps to push down easier. Then I made sure that both pistons were in, and then propped the halfs up with two old chain tensioners (I know, pretty awesome). Then I removed the two clamps.

1.jpg

[pierce]

With it propped up I then coated each half with Ultra Gray.

drop.jpg

drop2.jpg

drop4.jpg

Then just push the halves together

DSCF0952.jpg

And tighten the bolts

tighten bolts.jpg

Grease the threads and base with Moly grease before bolting down. Use the manual for correct placement.

[Fred Camper]

Nice detail shots, that helps us all.