Eight Pounds and 40 Stone Build

[sunnbobb]

This is getting better and better. Great work.

[bonneblktrk]

Red2trike thanks, I will try to contact Mr. Randaak. My son is researching the supercharger components, found some blowers, about all.

Having followed some of your projects sunnbobb, quite a compliment, thank you.

[Red2trike]

Just a little more info about using centrifical superchargers: they either are used in a blow-thru (carb enclosed in box) or draw-thru (carb has a "bonnet" cover with BIG opening for air hose from charger) configuration. The draw-thru is more popular and it's what had been used by CCI on the Wings. A few 1965-70-ish (289/302/351) Ford Mustangs used a blow-thru back in the day but the turbo's were coming out. But they had their own set of issues...oiling issues, bearing failures just for starters.

RT2

[bonneblktrk]

MILESTONE: IT FITS!!

Still needs a little more machining.

May shorten it .060 to make installing it with the dust covers, already machined the little grove for them, are they needed?

Champhering driveshaft opening for more clearance for suspension movement. Can use stock brake pedal with a little clearance machining, may not use it and go to custom setup.

Counterbores for locating tube nipples.

I put the rh pivot in just touching with 1-2 threads showing outside of jam nut, torqued in lh adjustment to firm things up, recommended to use 7 foot lbs.

Once all machining finished will lightly tack weld with unit installed to assure good fit to pivots. Not much room for tolerences.

[Fred Camper]

Seems to be stout structurally, keep at her.

[Red2trike]

Rubber dust cover helps to keep road crap outta there. Looks like your building it for a tank.

One thing i wanted to mention about some of the blower/superchargers i was talking about. I ran a Paxton 5lb boost with a Carter AFB carb (draw-thru). This was a centrifical unit and most are or were back in the day. They run with a pulley added to the crank pulley. The later Paxton/McCullogh used the enclosed housing and were blow-thru. Carter's and Holley's were both used. But these blow-thru's needed much more carb mods verse the blow-thru. Most of the newer supercharger set-ups (autos) are a root-type short/long nose units. Roush uses these but man are they getting costly.

The CCI blower units (used on Wings 80-87) were similiar to a GMC 4-61 unit (roots-type blower) from a diesel truck. These roots-type are tough units, compact, firly easy to install, little mods to anything else. Sounded awesome when running thru stock mufflers!!!!

RT2

[bonneblktrk]

GL's are tanks! lol Going to try to slim it down after I know where everything will be placed, ie. swingarm tubing.

[bonneblktrk]

Little update:

Got a used tire at a local motorcycle shop, free tire , $10 mounting. Thought could get better guide for bending the tubing. Going to look pretty "beefy".

Alignment is close to being right, anyone know the tolerence for lining up the tires to frame, how far off can it be an still track okay and handle correctly and be balanced? This is probably the most critical measure I have yet to contend with. When we swapped the SA on my son's streetfighter were within !/64".

Next is altering the drive shaft. Whether I use the 1000 or 1800 shaft or which parts of each. Whichever will seem to work and look best. The length of it will determine where the rear wheel ends up, and alignment from that.

[Fred Camper]

Looking good, seems like you have the right relationship for tracking.

[past in time tony]

Nice stance!

[bonneblktrk]

Thanks guys. Maybe could come down a little in the front, but can adjust the height after sa made and bike can have weight on the tires.

[HOTT]

Maybe could come down a little in the front

With your skills (and awesome shop) You might consider dropping the head tube.
You'll get the ride level and eliminate the shims. Just another idea.

HOTT

[Red2trike]

Keep on eye on that height...get a "bubble level" on engine. Try to keep the engine block as level as possible in final configration. Honda engineered the engine to "sit level" in the frames.

Centerline looks fine so far. Lay some "straight" 2 x 4's or old florescent light tubes alongside the rear tire wall, as you go to the front wheels...measure the distance from the "center of the front wheel rim" to each 2 x 4 or tube. This measurement is used to make sure the tires are tracking straight. Over the years I try to keep it as close as possible...1/16" (inch). But knowing how many of these bikes are built...1/8" - 3/16" is not bad at all.

RT2

[bonneblktrk]

Interesting about the florescent light tubes.

So the thing to do is level the motor and rest it on blocks to still be able to get a straight edge alongside the tires? The gap along the front tire should be equal on both sides to indicate the rear wheel is running straight?

I would think getting the rear wheel plumb is important too?

[ericheath]

+1 on interesting for the flourescent light tubes. I wonder how long they'd last working under me.. LOL