filter adapters

[CYBORG]

Just got my filter adapter from Hearaldmaster. Great stuff. Well made, looks good. nyone thinking about getting one should pull the trigger. I have three now, and I love them.

[BruteSquad]

Is this to allow for standard oil filters?

[CYBORG]

Is this to allow for standard oil filters?

Correct. There are several standard spin on filters that fit fit them. most have better filtration
then the stock honda one. And are much easier to install.

[pidjones]

Just don't buy one of those chrome filters with an adapter screwed into it. Mine blew off.

[CYBORG]

Just don't buy one of those chrome filters with an adapter screwed into it. Mine blew off.

To much oil pressure???

[pidjones]

Just don't buy one of those chrome filters with an adapter screwed into it. Mine blew off.

To much oil pressure???

Hmm. backed up by one side not distributing? Don't know. After I pulled it off, there is just a nipple screwed in with different threads, but none tighten in properly. Dumped a couple quarts on our concrete drive. Shut it down and put regular filter/can/spring/washer/bolt on. I looked for evidence of RTV on (or in) it yesterday but didn't see any. I keep it as another example of "don't". BTW, I have another one - they were part of a free order from a vendor that had give-aways on another forum. supposed to work on either CB750 or GL1000. Won't work on anything (pretty, though).

[CYBORG]

Just don't buy one of those chrome filters with an adapter screwed into it. Mine blew off.

To much oil pressure???

Hmm. backed up by one side not distributing? Don't know. After I pulled it off, there is just a nipple screwed in with different threads, but none tighten in properly. Dumped a couple quarts on our concrete drive. Shut it down and put regular filter/can/spring/washer/bolt on. I looked for evidence of RTV on (or in) it yesterday but didn't see any. I keep it as another example of "don't". BTW, I have another one - they were part of a free order from a vendor that had give-aways on another forum. supposed to work on either CB750 or GL1000. Won't work on anything (pretty, though).

I haven't seen anything like that, but it sounds like something I wpuld stay away from..... efen if they were free

[low-side]

I ran out of standard filters and pulled one of those chrome filters off the shelf. It showed up in the mail about 9 months ago, I don't remember why (I don't think I ordered them). It initially leaked but stopped after re-tightening. The other day, about a month later, I noticed that bike had a quart+ pool of oil under it with a tight filter. It's getting a spin-on filter adapter when I get a few minutes to address it. Those chromies are absolute garbage. The spin-on adapters are very attractive. I'm going to use a Purolator PL10241 with mine.

[robbie202]

I have one of the old randakk ones. Installation is coming up next on the to do list. I think i have a bosch and a fram either should fit.

[desertrefugee]

I've had one on my 1000 for about 6 years now. I love it, too. Coincidentally, there is a discussion going on about them over on the SOHC forum. I mentioned (and I may be anal about it) that I'd be more apt to keep the factory filter and finned cover on an air cooled bike. May not make much difference, but I threw it out there.

But a fellow over there submitted a detailed posting noting some of the potential pitfalls of going with a spin on. Mainly, it deals with the quality of the filter you choose, but his post was good enough that I'm going to cross-post it here and let him know I've done that.

TwoTired Wrote on SOHC.com:

If you want to hear down sides, I can give you a couple.

The stock filter bolt also has a pressure relief, to bypass a clogged filter, allowing the engine to still receive oil flow.

This function is replaced by the spin on filter. If the filter is actually made correctly, it will also have a pressure relief system, and they additionally have an anti drain back valve to keep oil from draining out of the oil galleries. This is important for start up operation, so the engine gets lubed immediately on start up.

There is no way to check these valves for correct function in the spin on filter before installation.

Some filters have been found to have poorly designed, defective, or incorrectly installed valves.

If the pressure relief valve is blocked open, the engine still gets oil, but it is unfiltered, kinda making a filter present useless. You won't know this until you rip the filter apart after the dirty oil has been recirculated in your engine since the last change cycle.

If the drain back valve doesn't close properly, each start up can have momentary oil starvation, increasing wear.

Neither of these issues are immediately catastrophic, and of no concern after you sell the bike. However, it can make a difference whether to rebuild the engine in 50K miles or 100K miles.

There was an article available some years back, relating to an investigation of filters. This sprang from some car collectors/restorers that noted tappets rattling on start up (oil galleries depleted), more prevalent with some brands of filter than others. This prompted taking apart the filters, cutting them open, to find the internal valves not working, either the assembly glue blocked them or they weren't positioned correctly when constructed. These filters, by design would only function if properly assembled. Sometimes they did, sometimes they didn't. Other brand designs could not be assembled wrong, and functioned on each sample checked.

As I recall, Fram and Champion, had the worst quality control, and the most often found issues. Although the filter membrane was at least adequate, the valve operation was often found lacking. When the engine valves clattered on start up, sure enough, the anti drain back valve wouldn't hold the oil in the galleries. And on some, the pressure relief valve was also stuck open.

To compound matters, filters were re-branded, relabeled and when opened up found to be made by the companies with little to no quality control or designs that could be assemble incorrectly.

And even more confusing, Fram (for one) has several designs of filters on offer, and not all are bad designs. Some work reliably as intended.

Having learned about these investigations, I decided that the stock set up works well as intended, and the Fram filters I install in the existing canister are easily inspected BEFORE installation for defects.

But, if you are a risk taker, or have total trust in spin on filter manufacturers... well good luck!

Cheers!

[CYBORG]

Interesting. But has more to do with the filters used then the adapter. I have three of the adapters on my bikes, and have NEVER had a problem or issue. And have used them for years. Once the type of filter is researched, the convenience is the main reason. And they look better.

[Rat]

They also allow you to put (slightly) more oil in the bike ...

Gord

[low-side]

I personally wouldn't use anyone's cheap or store brand filters, especially on a motorcycle. Too many cardboard end caps and higher rates of bypass valve failure amongst them. Fram is probably the worst name brand for this, though their higher end filters are pretty good.

[CYBORG]

I personally wouldn't use anyone's cheap or store brand filters, especially on a motorcycle. Too many cardboard end caps and higher rates of bypass valve failure amongst them. Fram is probably the worst name brand for this, though their higher end filters are pretty good.

The advantage to the filter adapter is you can use a number of different spin on filters. Why, if I can ask, is a quality filter on a bike more important then one on a car or truck? How about naming names, and showing proof of which filters are the best, and the worst. And just to be clear, I don't consider U-tube, or facebook reliable sources of information.

[desertrefugee]

I thing Doug's onto something here - except that for whatever reason, Fram filters have a pretty rotten reputation.

I still think that I'll stick with my OEM filter and housing on my air-cooled bikes (i.e. the CBX and the 750K5).