83 GL650 Silverwing

[BIKERTUCKER]

Bought a 1983 GL650 Silverwing as my winter project. After going thru the carbs and changing oil the old girl could lift the front wheel off the ground an inch or so thru 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear with the fairing and bags still in place, what fun. While the engine is out for water pump seals any ideas on other unseen items that at 53000 miles could need attention. Added spin on oil filter adapter from Randakk.
Thanks Randal & Bob.

Tim

[puffy75]

This series of engines did have some troubles with cam chain tensioners. You might have a look at those items. The 650 had the latest tensioner parts in them though. I would still have a look with the engine out. Lube the Pro Link bearings well and set it up for your weight.

[BIKERTUCKER]

Thanks for the heads up on the Pro link bearings. I did a check on the tensioner when I had the rear cover off for waterpump work. all seemed to be in good order. Word of advice on the nut that holds the waterpump impeller in place. Do not torque to 33 ft lbs as the non honda maint book
implies. Had it verified spec. should be 33 in lbs. Did not like the thought of breaking off the end of the cam shaft.

[Sidecar Bob]

When the back cover of the engine is off look for signs that the camchain has been rubbing. The most common place for it to rub is shown in the pic below (this is my engine and was taken when I had it apart last summer)



Have a look at the stator too. If it is a nice light brown colour and the coils read as they should when checked with an ohm meter it probably will last for years. If there is any discolouration you might consider replacing it.
I recommend using a stator from a GL1000 or GL1100 because their alternators are rated at 300W (the original is rated at 252W). It's not exactly "plug & play", but the core is the same and with a few minor mods & new wires it will work perfectly. I did this while mine was apart too.
The extra watts are useful if you intend to use any electrical accessories. I have handlebar heaters, a car stereo, sidecar lighting (incl. headlights) and a plug for the electric anti-fog helmet shield (a must at -25c).

Did anyone tell you about using the Yamaha mechanical seal? It is less than 1/2 the price of the Honda one. Have a look at the CX/GL500/650 Web Resource for this info & a lot more
http://www.elsham.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/cx500/

[BIKERTUCKER]

Thanks for the added info and the photo,I'll look at the points indicated before all is put together. I'll also add a note to my files that a GL1000 & GL1100 stator will work on this model also.

Sidecar Bob Thank you.

[BIKERTUCKER]

After painting the engine and buffing some bolts, installed the engine and went for a thirty mile ride. So far no coolant leaks into the crankcase or else where on the outside of the engine. I also have a 1980 and 1976 Goldwing. This was the first time I needed to replace any of the o-rings in the coolant tubes. #@#* cut through two of them before I got the hang of it. I am impressed with how smooth and responsive this GL650 is. Being of course smaller than my Goldwings and still having fairing and hard bags, this might become my new going to work bike.
Thanks to all for your input.

Tim

[sunnbobb]

And now our pictures???

BTW, on my cx500, I made a habit of doing the camchain adjusting routine once a month or so. It only takes 5 minutes..

[Sidecar Bob]

The 650s have automatic camchain adjusters...

[sunnbobb]

Sweet!

[BIKERTUCKER]

Pictures ??? I'll try to get the film developed this weekend.
To be honest it's not picture worthy yet. Maybe in a month or two.

[BIKERTUCKER]

After all was assembeled and back on the road noticed engine began to smoke with a bit of blue tint but also on start up had a sweet odor. Compression was normal. After removing the heads found the left side head gasket was bad (coolant leak). The shop that preformed the head work stated that many of the valve seals were hardened and came off in bits and pieces. Now once again all is together and so far so good.
Before once engine came up to operating temp it would begin to smoke.
Have twice let it reach operating temp. in shop and all is clear. Hopefully I can get it on the road after work for a bit of road test. Both the head gaskets and valve seals seem to be modified from orginals. I noticed the metal seal on the head gasket that sits on top the cylinder sleeve was wider by about 40%. Also a small hole had been burned in the old head gaskets at the exhaust port, new gasket now has a slot punched thru gasket I guess to allow coolant to make contact with this hot spot and keep it cooler.Lou with Speciality Cycle Products stated the valve seals were tan in color and seemed to be comprised of different material than the orginals.

[Rat]

http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15143

Should consider having a spare around.

Gord

[BIKERTUCKER]

Just when I think I've got things sorted out an offer to bypass my ineptitude lands on my doorstep. RAT... where were you last October.

[Rat]

Just when I think I've got things sorted out an offer to bypass my ineptitude lands on my doorstep. RAT... where were you last October.

Uhhhh .... right here

Gord