Dismantling the neutral switch.

[Old Fogey]

There has been many, many posts on here about the misfunctioning of the neutral switch and how to get around it.

Well, quite by accident I found something that I have not seen mentioned here or anywhere else.

I was silly enough to Loctite the screw holding the wire to the switch, which meant that I couldn't undo it while the engine was in the frame. I had no alternative but to cut the wire.

Once the engine was out and I could get a decent purchase on it, DISASTER!, the whole base of the switch came loose in the body.

I couldn't leave it loose as I was sure there would be an oil leak, so what to do?

Since this is a brand new switch I didn't want to risk wrecking it so I took it out of the engine and examined it before doing anything else.

Looking at it, the base has the appearance of being moulded into the main body. But, there are four small blind holes in it.

Thinking about it I realised that it would be very difficult if not impossible to mould the base on when there is a spring loaded plunger inside.

Therefore the reasoning was that these holes were for a tool to tighten the base into the body.

Sure enough, the base unscrewed and then components just fall out.

No problem now to clean the contacts of carbon!

The thread will have to be scrupulously clean and a little Loctite used to hold the base back in when re-assembling it all.

I think that if you could find or make a small pin spanner the switch could even be serviced in-situ (maybe, if you haven't been daft enough to Loctite the screw in the first place.)

[Rat]

Useful info.

Thanks

Gord

[paultjack]

OK, I'm taking mine apart while in the bike in hopes of cleaning the switch! Thanks for the info!

[drmudd]

I have done this cleaning and sometimes the switch needs a little adjustment as well. It works well. I have one repaired switch that has been in service a couple of years with no problems.

[roncar]

I captured some photos and play by play on the disassembly a while back, but had no luck getting it apart. But I have a vice now and will have to try again.

Pics and text saved here http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/album359

By jschitt5 from here http://rides.webshots.com/album/79679901dYHJLG

[Roady]

Great info, Old Fogey.

This has been moved to the How-To forum (and elected to ShopTalk).

[jhomc7]

Many thanks, that pictorial was totally awesome. After seeing the procedure laid out so clearly I'm willing to give it a shot and save the $62.00 I would have to spend to get a new one.

Thanks again, Jim

[paultjack]

Today I had off work and finally decided to tackle the Neutral switch. First I attempted the "Burn-It-Off" method for another try (I think that's 3 at this point) That didn't work. So, following roncar's Method of Switch Removal I finally manged to get the switch out. That was a bit more difficult than I expected. Part of my confusion was in how the switch was actually held in. I figured out there was the retaining bolt and bracket, but what was unclear was if there were any screw threads holding it in place. Obviously to those who've removed it the answer is no. To get the switch out of the block I used the screw in the center of the switch as my pry point. That popped it right out.

So, I proceeded to remove the "Screw-In" top piece. Hmmm, how to explain this.... Yes, it does unscrew. Well, at least once you get past all the epoxy holding it in place. In my case that epoxy seeped down the threads totally locking the top piece in place. The more I attempted to remove it the more pieces I removed of the top piece. In the end I finally managed to unscrew some of it, although that piece I unscrewed now consisted of only about 25%. For those who wish to attempt unscrewing that top piece be ready to have a replacement if things go as well as mine. My replacement will be here next week.

In the mean time I removed the center parts of the switch, threw some epoxy in the wholes to prevent any oil from leaking out and slapped everything back together temporarily to prevent bugs from getting in until the new switch comes in. I was thinking of just riding it with the epoxy plug but have decided I'd just wait until the new switch comes before I finalize the assembly - Wouldn't want to have to replace the oil twice!

Looking at Ole Fogey's photo I originally thought that top piece was made of brass. I my case it was just simply brittle plastic held in with epoxy.

Anyway, I'm not disappointed as I really wanted the neutral switch to work correctly, I was already prepared to buy a new one (should have ordered it but wanted to see if I could get it apart first) and this gives me an opportunity to do some maintenance...

[Beezer]

That's kinda funny! I'm jshitt5. I loaded those pics about eight years ago and forgot they were even there.

[Hal]

I've just done this following Roncar's walkthrough.

Easy! I made the tool from an allen key and it worked fine. Not sure the sealant is 'epoxy' as in Araldite epoxy glue, but that's what I used to replace it, and I didn't put Loctite or anything else on the threads, so I'd better keep an eye on it for a while to make sure the plastic bung doesn't unwind itself.



While you're at it, why not change the oil screen screws/allen heads for hex heads, so you can remove it with the engine in the frame? Notice how the neutral switch is installed wrong in this photo (the one below)....my dog did it and she's stupid.